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NARRATIVE 


OF 


THE IMPRISONMENT AND ESCAPE 


PETER GORDON. 


■ 














































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NARRATIVE 

OF 


THE IMPRISONMENT AND ESCAPE 



OF 


PETER GORDON, 

/I _ 

SECOND MATE IN THE BARQUE JOSEPH, OF LIMERICK, CAFT. CONNOLLY. 


COMPRISING 

A JOURNAL OF THE AUTHOR’S ADVENTURES IN HIS FLIGHT 
THROUGH THE FRENCH TERRITORY, FROM CAMBRAI 
TO ROTTERDAM ; AND THENCE TO THE 
ENGLISH COAST. 


ILoirtron: 

PUBLISHED BY JOSIAHCONDER,18,ST. PAUL’S CHURCH-YARD. 


1810 . 

The Author's Fronts mil be devoted to the Patriotic Fund, 

■ 'T*W 








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H. Biyer, Printer, Bridge street, Blackfjiars, f.oudou. 





TO THE 


COMMITTEE OF, AND SUBSCRIBERS TO, 




atnottc 



ESTABLISHED AT LLOYD’S, 


THIS NARRATIVE IS INSCRIBED BY 


THEIR MUCH OBLIGED, 


AND VERY GRATEFUL SERVANT, 

PETER GORDON. 


London , 1816. 


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ADVERTISEMENT. 


After escaping from France, my stay 
with my Friends previous to a separation 
of nearly four years, being limited to a few 
days, I was induced to promise to write 
out an account of my imprisonment and 
escape, supposing it would not exceed the 
limits of two or three sheets ; but each 
incident then being fresh in my recollection, 

9 

and occupying a considerable degree of 
interest in my thoughts, insensibly and un¬ 
willingly the Narrative attained its present 
size, before I could bring it to a con- 

t • 

elusion. 

The desire of gratifying many Friends 
who wish for Copies, and the prospect of 
benefiting the Patriotic Fund, to which. 




advertisement. 


I 


Vlll 


Avifh many others, I acknowledge myself 
to be under great obligations, are my only 
inducements for publishing this journal, 
and thereby exposing myself to censure for 
the innumerable lies told on my journey : 
I consider my conduct in that respect as 
very blameable, and refer the advocates 
of white lies, as they are very erroneously 
called, to my situation on the 1st March, 
when being examined before the MagJ 
trates at HelvoetsJuys. 


Mj profession and engagements will, I 
hope, be received as an apology for the want 

of propriety of expression, which I am aware 
is to be met with in every page. 


i 






NARRATIVE 

OF THE 

IMPRISONMENT AND ESCAPE 

OF 

PETER GORDON, 


On the tenth of August 1809, I sailed from 
Oporto in the Barque Joseph of Limerick, 
commanded by Captain J. Connolly, and manned 
as follows: 


George Hodges 
Peter Gordon 
Thomas Hodges 
James Kelly 
John Melligin 
Jem 
Ned 

Ned Giles 
Charles Buckley 
George 


Chief Mate. 
Second do. 


Seamen, 


Boys* 


Having warped over the bar, we anchored for 
the night in the roads, and the next morning at 
sun-rise, sailed in company with about 26 other 

B 




2 


merchant vessels under convoy of a gun-brig# 
We had light Southerly airs for three days, 
in which time the whole of the convoy had got 
out of sight a head of us, but we had not lost 
sight of Oporto steeple, which can be seen at 
the distance of seventeen leagues: for two days, 
we had sight of the aqueduct at Villa de Conde 
also, which is said to be built on 999 arches 

t 

and to extend seven miles. 

Sunday, 20th. We were chased for some time 
by a large frigate under French colours, which 
gave us very little concern; on sending her 
boat on board we found it was La Viroine. 
Captain Toby having detained us about an 
hour whilst he wrote some letters, we made 
sail again with a brisk gale at the Westward. 

Monday , about midnight, made Scilly Light¬ 
house. 

Tuesday , at 2 p. m. the Lizard bore North. 

Wednesday, at sun-set the Needles point just 
in sight from the deck, spoke a Cowes boat, 
who told us there were no privateers out, and 
that the Oporto fleet had not yet passed up 
channel.—1 now got ready to jump into the 
first boat we should fall in with on the morrow* 


3 


as I was to £o ashore before coming- to the 

O o 

Downs, in order to keep clear of the press. 

Thursday , at day-break, no land in sight; 
hauled up more to the Northward : about 8 a. m. 
made the land about Beachy Head, and saw 
two vessels in shore of us. About 9 a. m. were 
boarded by a boat belonging to His Majesty’s 
Brig Defender* which impressed James Kelly, 
but on Captain Connolly’s going on board and 
making the Lieutenant a present of a dozen of 
wine, he was returned, c< as being too young for 
the service.” He was only 28, but very stout. 

t was anxiously looking out for a fishing 
boat, and saw several from the mast-head, 
between us and Brighton, but of too great a 
distance to be of any use. At noon we were 
standing in towards Beachy Head, which bore 
from us E. N. E. distant 4 or 5 leagues, with 
strong breezes from W. S. W;—a sail in sight 
on the larboard-bow, and His Majesty’s Brig 
Defender hull down to the West. At 1 p. m. 
made the sail out to be a lugger standing to the 
Southward under her fore and mizen luggs 
she crossed our hawse about 4 miles a head of 
us, and shewed English colours : we strongly 
suspected it was a Frenchman, particularly 
when we saw that some of the people wore 

B 2 




4 


red jackets and shirts, but as she continued 
standing to the Southward, hoped it might be 
one of the hired luggers, with troops for 
Guernsey ; when, being about 2 miles to leeward 
of her, she tacked, and after standing* to the 
Northward a few minutes, bore away after us, 
and haying set her main-sail, was in a few 
minutes near enough for us to see they all wore 
caps, and convinced us that it was a Frenchman. 
We had all sail set, and were running dead in for 
Beachy Head, intending to bump her on shore, 
but the lugger sailing too fast for us, was under 
our stern in a very short time, dowsed her 
English colours, up French, and let fly a volley 
of musketry amongst our rigging. We had 
two six-pounders on board, but no ammunition, 
therefore, struck the British flag, without either 
tiring a shot or striking a blow ; excepting those 
we struck at our own tiller, which we endeavoured 
to cut away, but before it could be effected, 
their boat was along side with eight hands to 
take possession, and they ordered six of us to 
return with the boat on board of the Privateer. 
They behaved themselves quite civilly, but 
when they had been on board some minutes, and 
we had not yet obeyed their order, they began 
to flourish their dirks about, and to insist on our 
going into the boat at once.—One of them laid 
hold of me, but I told him I bad no clothes' 


with me, and promised that if he would let me 
remain on board, I would get the boat manned 
directly. I got the boys and some others, whom 
1 did not wish to have with me, to go into the 
boat with the Captain and the Mate, who were 
particularly ordered away, and then went aloft 
with the end of the maintopsail halyards which 
we had cut. When the boat shoved off, I came 
down with the halyards, rove so foul, that it 
gave them much more trouble than if I had 
not touched it; when they had hove the top¬ 
sail halyards fore and aft, we assisted them 
in hoisting the sails up, and bringing the ship 
to the w ind on the starboard tack : w hen they 
came to brace up the fore yard, they could not 
move it: we all clapped on, but to no purpose : 
after sending a hand on the yard to see what 
was foul, w e clapped on again, but without any 
effect; but after swigging and hauling for 
upwards of twenty minutes, one of them went 
up in the main rigging, to see if the brace was 
jammed in the block, and found a seizing with 
which we had stopped both parts of the brace to¬ 
gether: whilst they were coming on boards having 
cast it off, the sails were soon trimmed, and we 
stood away for Dieppe on a S. by W. course, 
carrying top gallant sails to a fresh Westerly 
gale, which at another time would have brought 
us to reefed topsails, As I knew the main mast, 




and fore topmast to be bad sticks, I expected 
every minute to see one or both walk over the 
side, but, notwithstanding 1 their wounds and sore 
places, they bent to it like whale-bone. The 
lugger kept close on our quarter, and frequently 
hailed us. The privateersmen took away our 
knives, and permitted three, out of the five of 
us who were on board, to come on deck at a 
time. Directly the ship was on her course, they 
asked for some of the best wine on board. I 
pointed to a quarter cask for Admiral Stanhope, 
and told them it was the best: they immediately 
stove the head in, and after drinking' the Admiral’s 
health, mixed some in a kettle with water, lemon, 
and sugar, which they said was their usual drink 
on board privateers.—I was in hopes they would 
have got drunk, but soon found that they were 
so much accustomed to wine, that they would 
not drink too much of it; but for the purpose 
of making them thirsty, I took care to supply 
them well with sweetmeats of all kinds. The 
prize-master was a native of Amsterdam, about 
45 years old: four of the men were Flemings, 
two were Danes, and the other was a French¬ 
man, which was one of the worst things that 
could have happened to him, as he was driven 
about by all the others, to shew us how little they 
liked the French: they frequently declared they 

would much rather be employed on board of 

% 


7 


ir&fcrchant vessels of any nation than in French 
privateers, if it was in their power to get away 
from France. 

We were quite sociable with them, and 
assisted in doing any thing about the ship as 
usual, to let them see that we were quite easy 
about being captured, and imputed it only to 
u la fortune de la guerre ”—“ you to-day, me 
to-morrow;” which was the consolation they 
administered to us very freely. 

In the course of the afternoon, I took a small 
box of about 80lbs. weight from amongst seven 
others of silver, which were under the captain’s 
berth, and placed it under my pillow, intending 
to open it in the night, and distribute it amongst 
the ship’s company. An hour or two after I had 
removed it, two of the privateersmen, who were 
rummaging my cabin, broke it open, and when 
they found it contained bars of silver, having 
given a bar to me, and another to Tom, who 
was in the cabin at the time, restored it to the 
place in which they had discovered it, and told 
us, in case the silver was discovered on us, not to 
say who gave it us, for if we did, they would 
deny knowing’ any thing of it, and their words 
would be believed sooner than ours. We pro¬ 
mised that we would not betray them, and ac- 


8 


knowledged the obligation we were under for 
their present. 

About sun-set we mustered all sorts of eat¬ 
ables that were in the ship for our supper, besides 
tea, coffee, chocolate, wine, negus, &c. to drink, 
and were very merry. I was glad to find that 
we had secured their confidence, and that they 
had no suspicion of our making any endeavour 
to recover the ship. I heard the prizemaster say 
to his people, “ there is no danger, for the mate 
is a very good man and when I asked him 
about our usage in prison, and how long we 
should be left on board after arriving in France, 
lie told me that as long as he continued by the 
ship, l should remain with him; which made 
me suppose that if we were not fortunate enough 
to be able to retake the vessel, or to escape with 
the boat, before our arrival in port, by con¬ 
tinuing on board the ship until she was unloaded, 
I should either make my escape, or get per¬ 
mission to enter on board of some neutral mer¬ 
chant vessel. Before supper was over, Melligin 
was quite drunk, and kept aggravating' some of 
the lugger’s people, by insisting that the pro¬ 
vision, as well as wages, was much better on 
board of English than on board of Danish or 
any other vessels, together with other nonsense 
of the same kind: seeing that they were be- 


ginning' to get angry, I asked the prizemaster 
to order him to bed, as he was drunk, and 
would be quarrelling; he sent him below im¬ 
mediately, and said that the rest of us might 
continue on deck as long* as we pleased, and 
go up and down at pleasure. As it grew dark, 
the wind came light, with mizzling rain, and 
the prizemaster ordered the three men who 
Were at the helm, to keep their arms at hand, 
and the other four to patrole the deck with cut¬ 
lasses in their hands. About midnight, it 
being nearly calm, with heavy rain, the lugger, 
which still continued close on our quarter, took 
us in tow, all hands of them working at the 
sweeps with all their might. 

Friday . About 1 a. m. the Captain of the 
lugger came on board, and Captain Connolly 
with him; whilst they remained, which was but 
for a few minutes, I lay quiet in my berth for 
fear of being ordered on board the lugger, if I 
was seen. Between three and four o'clock 
they came to anchor close to the French coast, 
waiting for day-break, to see whereabouts they 
were: the Captain of the lugger returned again 
on board of us, with Captain C. whom he left in 
the cabin alone, to shift himself. 1 now made 
my appearance, and gave him four or five of 
the bars, which he did not keep about him, but 


10 


put them into his chest. The French captain 
came down to hurry him away, and on seeing 
some silver spoons in another of his trunks, put 
them into his pocket, saying’ with a great deal 
of politeness, u Captain, I no take them, I pay 
you when we go shore.” 

At day-light, blowing fresh with hard 
squalls from the S.W. we discovered an 
English gun-brig, in the offing, working to 
windward, as though she intended to cut us 
out: the lugger’s boat was immediately sent 
on shore, our jolly boat was lowered down and 
sent on board of the lugger, from whence it 
soon returned with twelve or fifteen more 
men, who hauled our courses up, and payed 
out both cables to their bare ends, which they 
kept ready for slipping. They then ordered 
us all to go into the steerage, which after 
many endeavours to avoid, I was at length 
obliged to comply with: the hatch was laid 
over, and we were in total darkness, lying, 
or sitting, according as we had room, on the 
top of the wine pipes, which came within two 
or three feet of the deck ; and we expected 
every minute that this would be crushed in on us, 
either one side or the other, by the falling of 
the main mast, for we thought we heard 
them cutting it away. The cables were now 
slipped, and the ship was thumping very hard: 


« 




It 

the noise made by rousing a gun across tlie 
duck, directly over our heads, with the 
huzzaing and confusion which prevailed, and 
the whizzing of shot; together with the state of 
uncertainty we were in, expecting our liberty 
to be decided by an action, which we could 
neither assist at, nor even be witnesses of,— 
formed a dismal combination, which could only 
be heightened by the foolish fears of some of 
our comrades, who expected that on the ship’s 
bulging, we should either be drowned where 
we were, or murdered in attempting to get on 
deck; or otherwise that when the gun-brig’s 
boats boarded us,—an event we hoped every 
minute would take place,—we might be mistaken 
for Frenchmen, and thus be killed. The others 
shamed them out of such foolish fears, and 
persuaded them to arm, in order to make a sally 
up the hatchway, when we should be certain of 
the boats being alongside; we each got an 
iron bolt, pump brake, or whatever we could 
lay our hands on, and waited with impatience 
until we should have the pleasure of hearing 
our countrymen alongside. After remaining in 
this state of suspence about an hour, the hatch 
was taken off, and we were ordered up; being 
suspicious at first that they intended sending 
us ashore to prevent our being retaken with 
the ship, we thought of creeping into the re- 


I 


12 

molest parts of the hold, and remaining’ there until 
she was abandoned, but they called to us again, 
and told us that, as it was over, we might come 
up and that they wanted us to shew them the top 
gallant clew-lines. We now had the disappoint¬ 
ment of finding that the gun-brig, after standing 
in, and firing a few shots, the second of which 
carried away a large splinter of the lugger’s 
foremast, had put about and stood off to sea 
again: she was now eight or nine miles distant. 

A party of soldiers with some flying artillery 
had arrived from Dieppe, which was about eight 
miles to the Eastward of us, and occupied the 
cliff, about 250 feet in height, directly over 
the vessel. During the short time we had been 
below, they had quite transformed the vessel by 
cutting away several stantions, ripping off the 
quarter boards, and casting all our spars loose, 
which, with the sails blowing about, made her 
look iike a perfect wreck. On going into the 
cabin, 1 found every thing there in the same 
state of confusion as prevailed on deck. The 
Captain’s trunks were broken open, and the 
bars of silver which he had put into them, 
were gone : this loss, however, did not give 
us much concern, as we had stowed away all 
that had been in the case, in different parts of 
the ship. „ 


The Captain of the lugger now came on board, 
with a man to pilot the ship to Dieppe, from 
which place we were about 8 miles to wind¬ 
ward, the wind being at S. W. which is right 
along-shore. Instead of warping or towing her 
oft', they first boxed her head off, then slewed 
her stern round, and after giving her about a 
dozen of these twists, her rudder came off, as 
might naturally be expected ; they directly 
cried out, “ that the ship was totally disabled, 
and that they should never be able to get her into 
port.” Great confusion now ensued among 
the Frenchmen: some of them began to put 
on whatever clothes they could lay their hands 
on, underneath their ow n, to prevent their being 
found out; for the French laws are very strict in 
forbidding prisoners of war being plundered of 
their clothes, watch, or cash, to whatever sum 
it may amount. I now took an opportunity of 
slipping over my shoulders two bars of silver, 
which I had previously slung for the purpose, 
and I put ©n my watch coat to prevent them from 
being perceived. I had just accomplished this, 
when one of the privateersmen came and told 
me, I must go into the boat directly with his 
Captain : this w^as quite unexpected. 1 refused 
to go, saying “ it could not be me:” he went up, 
and the prize-master came down, and said the 
Captain w r as waiting. I reminded him of hi* 


14 


promise, that I should remain on board as long as! 
he did He then went up to obtain permission for 
me to remain on board, but it was refused. I then 
told him that 1 must get some clothes, as I was 
in the same rig as when we were boarded: he 
ran up a second time, but not succeeding, came 
back angry. During' this time I bad scrambled 
together a few clothes out of my trunk as they 
came to hand, but my good friend the prize-* 
master, said, “ I should not take any thing with 
me.” I then hove them down, and felt for my 
French dictionary, but not being able to lay 
hold of it, I put down the other books wh^ch I 
had taken up, and retired in disgust from the 
Joseph’s cabin. 

Directly my head was above the companion, 
the French Captain laid bold of me and began 
rifling my pockets; I had nothing in them, 
except my handkerchief and some chocolate, 
both which things he took away and gave to one 
of his people : my purse and watch, which were 
together in my watch-pocket, he did not discover* 
lie examined the collar and skirt of my great 
coat, and then putting his hand into the breast 
of my waistcoat, laid hold of a bar of silver. I 
gave him the other from the opposite side very 
coolly, expecting to have a laugh at my disap^ 
pointment, instead of which, be saluted me with 


16 




a blow or two in the face, and a kick of the 
breech, calling* me at the same time a thief, 
which I thought came very gracefully from a 
fellow who was in the very act of robbing me 
of every thing, except a few rags on my back :— 
the same salute w as repeated from all sides as 
I went to the gangway. Whilst I stood in the 
main chains waiting for the boat to sheer to, 
I felt for the first time that 1 was a prisoner. 
Until then, I scarcely thought it possible that they 
w ould be able to carry me to France; but now 
all my plans for getting away from them ap¬ 
peared to be useless. 

You thief! you cursed thief! was now ringing 
in my ears from all around. To express how 
I felt, is out of my pow er. I endeavoured to say, 
I am not a thief; but found that if I attempted 
it, the tear which w'as already in my eye, 
would have burst forth. I was half mad and 
ready to burst at being treated like a thief, 
without being able to vindicate myself, or to 
have a blow at them for it. 

The Captain thinking that I was not inclined 
to go into the boat, came and gave me another 
blow or tw r o, wishing to make me jump for 
the boat, which was at the distance of several 
fathoms from the ship. I resisted him until 


16 


she came quite close, and then jumped in 
quite out of humour. Tom and Melligin were 
in the boat with four of the Frenchmen: we 
told each other in what manner we had been 
treated during the last half hour; their bags 
had been searched, and many things taken 
away, their new hats had been taken off their 
heads, and they were scarcely allowed to have 
their old ones. We were getting quite cheerful 
again, when the Captain came down and seated 
himself in the stern of the boat between Tom 
and myself: we now shoved off for the lugger, 
which was about a quarter of a mile distant. 
I began humming or whistling to myself, on 
which my old friend gave me two or three blows 
on my face accompanied with curses; looking 
at me again, and seeing that I laughed at it, 
he repeated the compliment. 

This treatment, together with the situation in 
which we now were, having been plundered of 
every thing, made ns willing to attempt any 
plan of escape which held out the slightest 
hopes of success. How willingly would 
we have given the Captain and his men an 
opportunity of exhibiting their swimming abi¬ 
lities, and have pulled off to the gun-brig in 
spite of their firing, which was all they could 
have done to annoy us, as there was no other 

' f v 


17 


boat in sight : and this it would have been easy 
to do, but that the weather would not allow of 
it, as it was blowing very fresh with such hard 
squalls, that even as we then were, with four oars 
in a very fast boat, we could get nothing a head, 
but were obliged to put back to the ship:— 
what hopes then could we have had of being 
able to pull right to windward with two, or* 
at the most, three oars ? When we got along¬ 
side the ship again, the Captain went up: the 
two men who had given us the bars of silver, 
came and nodded at me. I had observed when 
the others were abusing me, that they kept behind: 
they now obliged us by getting several trifling 
things for my comrades, which were at hand, 
but they could get nothing for me, as the Captain 
was in the cabin where all my things w 7 ere. After 
remaining along-side some time, we made a 
second attempt, which was as fruitless as the 
first; the third time, how r ever, w e succeeded in 
reaching the lugger, where our Captain and the 
rest of the ship’s company were, except Ned 
and Giles, who could not be found when we 
left the ship. 1 was introduced as a thief, and 
was the cause of much altercation between 
the French Captain and Captain Connolly, one 
persisting in my having plundered the cargo, 
ailedging this as a reason for plundering us, 
in return, of our clothes, which he had before 


c 


18 


promised should he restored to us: the other 
said I had not, and that it was only his French 
policy to get a pretence for breaking the pro¬ 
mises he had made. 

We got under way and ran down along¬ 
shore to Dieppe, a little before noon we ar¬ 
rived ajong-side the Quay, and in about a 
quarter of an hour, a guard of soldiers arrived 
to take charge of us; we were all ordered to 
step ashore, and I found myself actually a 
prisoner in France, in possession of the fol¬ 
lowing wardrobe—An old blue jacket, trowsers, 
and waistcoat, a hat, a shirt, an old pair of 
shoes, a silk handkerchief, and a pair of 
braces, besides my watch and two or three 
dollars in small money of several countries. We 
were searched at the custom-house for papers 
and for British manufactured goods; they were 
strongly inclined to seize a pair of cotton 
stockings from themate, but as they were marked 
and had been washed, he was permitted to keep 
them. 

Vigilant as the French Government is, in 
endeavouring to prevent the circulation of 
British manufactured goods, I do not believe 
it would countenance the depriving a prisonerof a 
few new clothes which might be in his pos¬ 
session; I rather consider it as a robbery com- 


19 


mitted by the custom-house officers, and applied 
to their own use. 

As we were being led through the town, the 
people in general appeared to pity us, but more 
particularly the women; some were congratu¬ 
lating the privateersmen, others laughed at, 
and a few abused us. On our arrival at the 
Chateau, we were conducted through three 
gates, and on entering the court-yard, found 
several Englishmen there in the same situation 
with ourselves Captain C. recognized one 
who commanded a vessel in the same convoy 
that we left Oporto with ; he had continued 
in the convoy until they were off the Isle of 
Wight; the Commodore then went into Ports¬ 
mouth, and left the merchant-ships quite un¬ 
protected ; when off the Ower’s light, a lugger 
came and took him out from amongst the others. 

The number of prisoners now amounted to 
fifty-two, including one woman, whose husband 
was master of a coasting schooner. The yard 
was roomy enough for us; two fcides of it were 
occupied by the Chateau, and the other two 
b y a wall, on the top of which was a terrace, 
separated from the drawing room by a folding 
glass door, and was the usual walk of the 
Commandant and his wife. When some of 

C 2 


our fellow-prisoners shewed me the room we 
had to lodge in, I thought he was joking; it 
was so dark, that at first I could make out 
nothing distinctly, but from the straw about 
our feet I concluded it was a stable: however, 
a minute or two undeceived me, for recovering 
my eye-sight, I perceived in one corner a 
poor fellow washing his only shirt; in another, 
a party at cards; a few singing, others sleeping, 
some mending their clothes, one or two pacing 
to and fro the room, thinking, I suppose, of a 
country and friends they were separated from, 
perhaps for ever. 

The first room was about 80 feet, and ap¬ 
peared to have been intended for a guard-room, 
as it was not at all secured as a prison, the 
windows having no bars, and the door being 
but very badly fastened; the other room was 
a round tower about fifteen feet in diameter, 
with walls of flint seven feet in thickness: it 
was entered by passing through the former 
room, from which it was separated by two 
small strong doors, and was lighted by two 
loop-holes, from one of which we could just 
get a peep of the luggers lying in the roads. 

Our allowance of provisions was one pound 
and a half of brown bread, a half pound of 
beef, with soup, and some cider; the pieca 


of beef whick we received, was from two to 
three ounces, and the soup was truly meagre. 
We had to scramble for it, and then sip it 
up in the best manner we could with the 
points of our knives for the first day or two, 
until we got hold of pieces of wood to make 
spoons of. 

Our domestic economy was such, that we 
used to dine on soup and bread, sup on bread 
and meat, and, if our purse would afford it, 
get a halfpenny-worth of butter to serve three 
or four breakfasts; if not, relish the crumb 
with a piece of the dirty crust. 

Our mate, Tom Hodges, and myself, messed 
and slept together: we thought ourselves for¬ 
tunate in being able to procure a small bundle 
of clean straw for a bed: we were well off 
for blankets, as my messmates had three or 
four good ones. 

About seven o’clock we had to retire into 
the den, and a sentinel was placed at the door 
of it. Between nine and ten we spread our 
straw nearly in the middle of the room. I 
could not help laughing heartily at the care 
we took in tucking a blanket round it, also 
at the pains we took to crib a handful or two 


22 


from our neighbours, when we had an oppor¬ 
tunity, for without these precautions, our bed 
would soon have been dwindled away. 

Saturday . At daylight, Catharine, which was 
the name of our keeper, came with two soldiers 
to guard a couple of us down to the sea-side 
to empty a tub; James Kelly and another 
prisoner were fixed on for the task. When 
they returned, I asked Kelly if the soldiers 
kept very near them: he said that one had 
remained about two or three hundred yards 
distant, and the other did not keep very close. 
I then enquired if he thought there would be 
any chance of getting away; he said there 
would be a very good chance. We agreed 
to carry the tub out together the next mornings 
and if there was any boat near the beach, to 
swim off to it; but in case we should not be 
able to get a boat, he proposed that on our return, 
we should set the tub down at the corner of 
one of the streets as if to rest ourselves, and 
whichever of us should be farthest from the 
sentry was to run away : if the sentry pursued, 
the other was to start in a contrary direction; 
but if the sentry chose to remain by the one 
who was with the tub, he who ran would 
have a good start, as but few people would 
be stirring at so early an hour; having finally 


23 


agreed on this plan, we kept it entirely to our¬ 
selves. 

At about ten o'clock we were let into the yard. 

In the course of the morning* Captain Con¬ 
nolly gave me two guineas, and told me at 
the same time, that when I should be in want of 
more, he would supply me. 

About dusk, Kelly came to me and asked 
me if I was determined to make a start of 
it on the morrow: I replied that I certainly was. 

Kelly . Then why not try it at once ? 

P. G. With all my heart, if you can raise a 
scheme to fetch out. 

K. Those gates, (pointing to two large gates 
in the body of the castle,) lead right out into 
the country. 

P. G . I know they do, for I got a peep when 
they were going out to milk the cows, and 
there is no sentry at them, but the job is how 
to get them open. 

K Oh, let that alone to me. 


P. G. Y 7 ery well, but I think you will find it 
rather a tough job. 

K. Never fear, for I have already done it. 

P. G. You don’t say so! 

K. Y es. I opened it just now, and had a 
good look outside : the coast is quite clear. 

P . G . Well. I am all ready. 

Mv messmates now came towards us, and 
asked me if we should go to supper; not 
being willing to wait an instant, I said I thought 
it would be as well not to mind it at present, 
but on Kelly’s telling me he would go and change 
his shirt, I went to them and said 1 thought 
it would be best to get our supper before we 
were locked up. I swallowed a few mouth¬ 
fuls of bread, and put a crust into my pocket, 
which with about the eighth of a biscuit I had 
brought from the ship, I hoped would serve 
for our sea stock on a voyage across the British 
Channel. Kelly went past, and 1 soon followed 
him, telling my messmates that I was not for 
any more supper. 

A number of boys were playing at blind- 


man’s buff between the doors of our room and 
the castle gate, which were not more than 
fifteen or twenty feet apart; we passed them 
without their taking any notice of us: there 
was a wicket in the first gate which was not 
kept fastened; we easily passed through it, and 
the first gate now concealed us, whilst we 
opened the outer one: this was secured by 
a bar of about half a ton weight, which went 
upon a swivel, and was locked at one end ; 
the lock being' already picked, the bar was 
easily removed, and on opening the gate, our 
hearts w r ere gladdened by the view of a fine 
open country, and no dangers in sight. 

i 

As I was pulling the gate to, Kelly asked 
which way we should turn : I answered I did 
not care which; as w e took a quick look on 
each side he said, <c well, here is to the right 
for luck,” and away he darted, I followed. 

I would rather have walked deliberately 
along', until we should be able to conceal 
ourselves at the distance of about a mile from 
the castle, and there wait until it was quite 
dark, when w r e might go along shore to the 
Joseph, where it was most probable we should 
find a boat. Not being able to run as fast as 
Kelly, he waited until I came pretty near him, 


26 


and then ran along again. The direction we 
went in, was along the cliff, to the westward 
of Dieppe; close to the castle we passed some 
very large mortars, and a few pieces of cannon. 
After having run about a mile, we came to a 
signal house, and were obliged to pass close 
under the windows of it; we had scarcely 
passed, when a man came out, and ran 
hallooing after us : we took no notice of him, 
but kept running along close to the edge of the 
cliff. When pretty near another signal house, 
we thought we had found a gap in the cliff 
by which it was possible to descend to the 
beach; having gone down about 200 feet, we 
were disappointed at finding about 100 feet 
more, as perpendicular as the side of a house; 
we of course had to return up again, and by 
the time we had regained the top of the cliff, 
the soldier who pursued us, was pretty near. We 
continued running along the cliff as before, but 
being afraid to come too near the second signal 
house, we endeavoured to gain the beach by 
a second gap, but were not able to get as low 
by it, as we had done by the former; we then 
endeavoured to hide ourselves in separate parts 
of the cliff. In a few minutes I heard Kelly 
calling to me, and on going up, found the 
soldier had hold of him by the collar. I told 
him in very broken French, and as well as I 


27 


could by signs, to let go of Kelly, and as he 
appeared unwilling to do it, I laid hold of his 
arm, and threatened we would use him ill if 
he did not remain quiet, telling him at the 
same time, that it was useless to resist as there 
were two of us, and he was unarmed. We now 
set off again running directly into the country, 
hoping to hide ourselves; having gone a few 
yards from him, he followed hallooing as before. 
The two signal stations were now alarmed, and 
as we passed between them, six other soldiers 
joined the pursuit in such a manner as to 
surround us; being caught by five, and the 
other two closing in with us, we surrendered 
at discretion, not at all displeased at having 
made the sortie, although we expected to be 
confined in a dungeon for it. As we were 
being led towards the Chateau, they asked 
where we intended to have gone. I said, to 
England. On their abusing and calling us 
deserters, I asked, if they were prisoners in 
England, would they not endeavour to return 
to their wives and children, by deserting’; on 
their replying, they would not, I said, they would 
then act like rascals, and not do their duty to 
their country. They continued to abuse us, 
and the man who first saw us, gave me a kick 
or two, saying I had been saucy to him: on 
this, one of those who had hold of me, gave 


28 


me several blows, and not having* a sword, 
took out of his pocket a large knife, with 
which he began cutting a few capers: knowing 
that they dared not hurt us, I told them that 
we were Britons under the protection of their 
Emperor, as prisoners of war, and as it was 
our duty, we would desert whenever we could 
get an opportunity. They abused us to one 
another, whilst we laughed at them, and told 
them to go on as long as they pleased in 
French, but not to abuse us in English, as 
that would soon make ns very angry. 

When we came to the Castle, they shoved 
us in amongst the other prisoners, and then 
went to the officer of the guard to report us. 
Captain Connolly had just been asking my 
messmates where I was; after looking about 
and not being able to find me, they concluded 
I had made a slip bend, and of course said no 
more on the subject. When we came in, we 
seated ourselves amongst the others; in a few 
minutes, Catharine came in with a serjeant of 
gensd’arnrierie, and two or three of the soldiers 
who took us up, to find who it was that had 
been away, and to know if any others were 
absent. On their asking which two it was that 
had been away, no one would answer them; the 
soldiers then took a candle, and looked at our 


20 


faces, whilst Catharine took another, and 
looked at our feet, to see whose shoes were 
wet: thev both fixed on me at the same instant* 
the soldiers remembering my face, and Catha¬ 
rine finding my shoes wet; the gend’armes 
remained by me whilst the others continued 
their search, but without success, as Kelly had 
on a very old pair of shoes, which he carried 
in his hands when we were running in the 
^rass, and of course they remained quite dry. 
They asked who it was that had been away 
w ith me; I replied I did not know; the 
gend’arme gave himself no more trouble 
by asking me again, but took a pair of 
thumb-screws out of his waistcoat pocket, and 
was proceeding to apply them to my thumbs; 
but supposing that when onceon,he w ouldtorture 
me with them until I should confess who was 
my partner, l determined not to let him put 
them on, and kept my fists fast clenched in 
spite of his endeavours to open them, telling 
him at the same time it was not English fashion, 
and I would have none of it. After w r e had 
struggled together some time, Kelly w ; ho was 
sitting next to me, jumped up and said, it was 
I who w'as with him. The gend’arme not 
understanding this, thought he was about to 
assist me, and that we intended to mutiny: he 
therefore ran to the door, and having called 


30 


for the guard, returned with the sentry's 
bayonet: he shoved me down on the guard 
bed on which I was sitting, and l believe was 
actually proceeding to run me through, when some 
of the prisoners held back his arm, and ex¬ 
plained to him that Kelly owned it was himself 
who had deserted with me. This made him 
quiet, and he screwed Kelly’s right thumb, 
and my left, together •, whilst he was screwing 
away, l pretended to be very much hurt by it, 
when we were scarcely touched, but he was 
too old a hand in the watch to be easily 
deceived. Being very much irritated, he was 
not contented with the degree of pain we 
endured, until the third time he had taken out 
the key. By this time the whole castle was 
alarmed, the guard was drawn up at the door, 
where the Commandant, with his wife and 
servants, stood half frightened, not knowing 
what the disturbance was about. 

Every thing being now quiet, we were left 
to ourselves, and the questions which were put 
to us of—Where did you get to?—How did 
you get out?—Why did’nt you go this way, or 
that way?—Why didn’t you hide yourselves?—- 
How do the screws feel ?—Do they hurt 
much?— See. 8tc. became a fresh vexation to 


31 


us, until we determined not to answer any of 
them. 

The screws occasioned an aching pain, 
which did not at all incommode us at first, 
but the longer they remained on, the pain in¬ 
creased very rapidly. We had just been saying 
toone another, that we did not know how we should 
be able to support the pain all night,—as it 
already began to be excruciating in spite of 
the precaution of resting our arm on the elbow, 
and keeping it quite steady,—wdien an elderly 
man, who was an officer of the guard, came 
in to see that all was quiet for the night, and 
was prevailed on by the prisoners to come in and 
ease our screw. When he came to us, I supposed 
it was to remove us to some dungeon, where 
we should be alone, but was agreeably deceived 
when the old gentleman eased the screw so much, 
that we could take our thumbs out at pleasure. 
On leaving us, he locked us up in the round 
tower with about a dozen lousy Portuguese, 
who were refused a lodging among the English 
in the other room. 

Sunday , 21th August . At day-break, we fixed 
our screws on again, for fear the ferocious ser- 
jeant should come in, but the officer of the 
guard soon came and took them entirely away. 


I 


32 

We now had the pleasure of stripping' to clear 
our clothes of the vermin who had taken up 
their abode with us during the night; this ope¬ 
ration being* finished, I had to return them to 
my back again, as a clean shirt was entirely 
out of the question. 

During this day, we were not allowed to go 
into the yard, which made some of the pri¬ 
soners grumble at Kelly and me; saying it 
was very hard, that on account of us two, they 
should be debarred the privilege of taking a 
little fresh air: others took our part, said we had 
done perfectly right, and asked whether, if those 
who were then grumbling, thought they could 
get away, but at the same time knew that those 
of us who were left behind would be closely con¬ 
fined for twelve months for it, they would not go: 
they could not say they would not, and were 
therefore, obliged to keep their grumbling to 
themselves. 

28 th August. This day about noon, all the 
Captains, that is to say, all those who could 
muster a long coat, were allowed to walk about 
the yard until dusk; but the rest of us were 
kept close as yesterday. 


29th. We were allowed to have our dinner in 


33 


the yard, but after having been out about two 
hours, were counted back again into our den, 
with the exception of the Captains, who remained 
out until dark. 

30 th, About 8 o’clock, the Captains were let 
out, and the rest of us about eleven. By the 
success which attended the endeavours of some 
of the prisoners to please the Commandant and 
his wife, by their games of leap-frog, blind- 
man’s buff, tumbling over head and heels, &c. 
<kc. we were not shut up until four o’clock. 

In the course of the day the Commandant 
desired to see the two deserters; when I was 
pointed out to him, he put his two thumbs to¬ 
gether, and shook his head. When Kelly came, 
he said, “ Ah! myn countrymans, dat is you;” 
mistaking him for a Dutchman, as he had very 
much the appearance of one. 

31s£. We were let out about the same time as 
yesterday, and by a continuance of the same 
games, were not shut up until dusk. As for my 
part, I was not at all in a playful humour, 
and rather than have joined in the games to 
please a Frenchman, when in his power, would 
have remained shut up from one month’s end 
to another. This afternoon Giles and Ned, 

D 


who had been left on board the ship when T 
quitted 4 her, arrived here: about two hours after 
l left the vessel, they were sent ashore, and 
marched to St. Valery in the West, where 
they were confined in the town jail, and very 
well used. 

• * * l j l " i • 

Giles succeeded in getting ashore a bar of 
silver, but before he had marched far, the hitch 
by which it was secured, slipped, and it fell 
to the ground in sight of the soldiers by whom 
they were guarded, who did not say any thing 
about it; whilst he was at the jail, he sold it 
to a silversmith for sixty crowns, but the next 
day they were sent for by the agents of the 
privateer, and having been questioned some 
time, were obliged to return fifty crowns, each 
being allowed to retain five. They had also 
in their clothes-bags, a topmast studding sail 
of fine duck, which I had told them to rip 
up, when I found there was no chance of being 
retaken ; they offered me the making of a pair 
of trowsers, which it was very easy to perceive 
I was not a little in want of, as the only pair I 
had were getting very ragged. 

2nd September. This morning eight men, being 
the crew who had been here longest were 
marched away to the Depot, the name and 


distance of which, we could not get certain in¬ 
formation of. 

Monday , 4th. A second draught of eight or 
ten men marched off for the Depot. 

5th. For the last two or three days, several of 
our crew had been busy in making trowsers'of 
the studding sail; as I had not yet got mine, 
and t thought the cloth was expended, I sup¬ 
posed they had shared me out, and it did not 
at all please me to think that 1 should be for¬ 
gotten by them. All this day I was reflecting 
very much on the great difference there was 
between my present situation and that with the 
hopes of which I was flattering myself but a few 
days before, as I was then hourly expecting to 
be amongst my friends, enjoying the greatest 
pleasure in my power, but now I found myself 
condemned to a prison, most likely for many 
years, with only the few old rags which I 
had on my back, and knew that, if I survived 
an imprisonment of ten or fifteen years, I 
should then be so incapable of any exertion, 
that for the remainder of my life I should be 
only a burden to society and to myself. I 
therefore determined no longer to drag on the 
miserable existence, which I had done during 
the last week, without having the satisfaction 


I 


3(5 

X 

of knowing that I had tried every possible 
means to regain my liberty. In consequence 
of this determination, I purposed to myself to. 
watch at the window in the evening, until 
the sentry was either asleep or off his post, 
and then to pick the locks and escape by the 
same gate through which I passed before: 
in case of being discovered, 1 had resolved to 
make such a resistance, that if they brought 
me back alive, I should be sent away amongst 
strangers, which I wished for, as I should then 
think much less of the ragged condition I 
expected very soon to be in, than amongst 
those who knew and would pity me. 

After dinner, I laid on our straw, anxiously 
waiting until night came, with the most horrid 
sensations I ever endured ; my imagination being 
full of stabbing, being stabbed, tried, hung, 
sent to slavery, chained, marched from dun¬ 
geon to dungeon, &c. &c. when I endeavoured 
to sleep : these unpleasant ideas were coun¬ 
terbalanced by thinking of what I had to expect 
on the other hand, which was, perhaps to spend 
many years of my life as a prisoner, without 
making any effort to gain my liberty. Some¬ 
times my imagination would lead me on step by 
step, until 1 fancied myself safe in England; but, 
on recollecting my true situation, I was always 


discontented with myself for not continually en¬ 
deavouring* to recover that which now appeared 
so desirable. Whilst 1 was lying here, one of 
the prisoners in passing, told me my clothes 
were sent up; 1 supposed it to De only a joke, 
therefore made no answer, but lay still, en¬ 
deavouring not to think, as nothing pleasant 
would come into my mind. In a few minutes, 
one of our boys came running to tell me that 
the Captain’s clothes were come up from the 
ship, and to come and see if any of mine were 
amongst them ; on this I went into the yard, 
in the middle of which there were two large 
bundles of clothes, on sorting of which, I found 
to my great surprise, that one half at least were 
mine, and the remainder the Captain’s. My 
stock was now about a dozen of shirts, a dozen 
pair of stockings, another blue jacket and 
trowsers, &c. &c. with some handkerchiefs and 
a long coat, the last article I was much 
pleased at finding, in hopes of being able to 
play the Captain on our jailors, and by this 
means, cease to be remembered as the deserter, 
a name which I was frequently saluted by. I 
also felt so great an alteration in my situation 
by the acquisition of these few clothes that I 
put my desertion off until a dark rainy night, 
which would greatly increase the probability 
of success. This evening the Captain com- 


38 


plained again to the Commandant of not having' 
received his clothes from the ship: she Com¬ 
mandant renewed his promise of having them 
sent to him, or else of making the owners of the 
privateer pay him. 

\ 

6th . In the course of this day, I told Kelly of 
my intention to be off again the first oppor¬ 
tunity: he said he was resolved to do the same, 

• — 

on which we resolved to go together. At night 
we turned in with the others, but directly our 
bed-fellows were asleep, we stole to the window 
and watched the sentry, who quitted his post 
for nearly two hours, returning to it only a 
few minutes before the guard was relieved. 
At midnight we returned to our beds, the night 
being too fine to give us any good hopes of 
success, without which it would not do to set 
off this time, for in case of being brought back, 
we were certain of being treated as incorrigible 
deserters. 

\ 

1th. Captains Connolly and Curry, with two 
other persons, received permission to go into 
the town under the care of a gen <\arme for 
the purpose of settling for their clothes with 
the owners of the several privateers by which 
they had been taken. The only offer they made 
Captain Connolly, was, a few dollars for him* 




3ft 


self and crew, which he refused, intending to 
claim payment for every thing that was not 
restored to us Whilst in the town, they met 
with three persons who had lately arrived from 
the Depot ol Cambrai to join French privateers. 
They called themselves Americans, who had 
been Captains of English ships, and said they 
had no intention ot joining the privateers but 
on the next Monday or Tuesday, as it would 
be half ebb in the harbour about midnight, 
they had determined at that time to attempt 
cutting out a fishing boat, as the tide would soon 
burry them past the pier-heads, and there would 
not be water enough for any of the armed 
craft to follow. The boats beinof large, and 
lugger-rigged, they were in want of more 
hands, and it was agreed, that Captain Con¬ 
nolly, Captain Curry, and myself should be 
of the party. We were to desert on the Hrst or 
second day’s march, and to go to the lodgings of 
these Americans, where they said we should be 
perfectly secure for a day or two. They said 
also, that it would be very easy to get away 
on the road, as we should be suffered to go 
three or four miles before the guards if we chose 
to walk fast, and at night we should be lodged 
in barns, or allowed to have a bed in the house 
by paying for it. They also informed them 


that we were bound to Cambrai, at the distance 
of 120 miles, it being the receiving Depot. 

I received the piece of duek which had been 
promised me, and was employed in making a 
pair of trowsers for the march; I also sent my 
shoes to undergo a thorough repair, which they 
were much in need of, and to be well nailed, 
as it would not do to let them wear out: [ bor¬ 
rowed an old pair of my messmates, until my 
own were mended. Kelly looked out with me 
as last night, but for the same reason, we 
could attempt nothing. 

8 th. Received notice that we were all to 
march away on Sunday morning', in company 
with some troops who were on their way to join 
the army of Holland, who were encamped in 
the neighbourhood of Walcheren. I was em¬ 
ployed all this day in finishing my trowsers, 
and converting a pair of old blue trowsers into 
a waistcoat, with several other jobs to put my 
clothes in order, in which I was assisted by 
two or three of those who had finished their 
own jobs. 

I now gave up ail thoughts of endeavouring 
to get away, until we had begun our journey, 
being persuaded that the plan was such as gave 


41 


i 

hopes of success, which the other could scarcely 
be said to do, as it was only a rash attempt for 
want of a better opportunity : the only ar¬ 
gument which could be used in favour of it, 
was, the nearness of our present situation to the 
sea, and the great distance we were soon to 
be removed from it. 

\ 

9 th. This day we were employed in packing 
up our clothes for the journey ; I had a large 
sack as full as I could cram it. In the after¬ 
noon, as two or three of us were talking to the 
serjeant of the guard, who had been a prisoner 
to the English during the American war, he 
told us that it was he who had had the guard 
last week when the two prisoners deserted, 

for which he underwent a trial bv Court- 

%/ 

Martial, and was sentenced to be imprisoned 
in chains for ten years, but on account of their 
being brought back so very quickly, and of his 
former good character, he was entirely forgiven. 
I did not tell him that 1 was one of the de¬ 
serters, as it would have been only natural for him 
to have felt a little angler towards me, although 
he could not blame any one for doing the 
same. I was very sorry to find that we had 
been the occasion of so much anxiety to the 
poor fellow, as he must naturally have suf¬ 
fered a great deal until pardoned, and I thought 


4 * 


I should not easily have forgiven myself if 1 
had heard of this punishment being put into 
execution, as it was not occasioned l>v any 
negiect of his duty. If he had been bribed, or 
even if it had been through careles>ness on 
his part that we got out, I should have be¬ 
stowed very little pity on him, although the 
thoughts of having been the occasion of a 
poor wretch languishing in chains for so many 
years, might have made me shudder L re¬ 
mained out this evening with the other long- 
coated gentry; it being Saturday night and 
the last we were to spend in this place, we 
had an extra piece of beef for supper to keep 
up the old sea custom of distinguishing it 
from other nights, and remembering our friends. 
Whilst we were at supper, Catharine, who 
had taken an extra glass of l’eau de vie, en¬ 
tertained us with an account of the scenes she 
had been through during the Revolution, at 
which time she served as a trumpeter in the 
Fi ench army, with so much credit, that she 
has a passport which permits her to travel in 
any part ot France without interruption; which 
is there a thing of no small consequence, as 
you are not allowed to go from one place to 
am tm r without a passport from the magistrates, 
in winch your route is described with great 
exactness, and in case of being found out of it, 


43 


you are imprisoned until you give a satisfactory 
account of your business. Before any person 
is allowed to have a bed at any inn, he is 
obliged to give his name, residence, &c. &c. 
which are sent to the police officers, before 
whom he must appear the next day with his 
passport if he remains in town. Police officers 
are stationed at the gates of all the towns to 
examine the passes of every one whom they 
suspect of being on a journey, both on entering 
and leaving the town. There is also several 
gens d’armes, who with the mayor have the same 
charge, besides keeping order in the villages 
where they are stationed. Under these also are, 
the Gardes Champetres, and several others of 
the same description, but under other names: 
their employment is to seek in the hedges, 
woods, &c. for those persons who prefer lying 
hid to travelling in the day-time; their uni¬ 
form is green, and they usually carry a fowling- 
piece, pistols, cutlass, and a stick, with a hook 
and spike about nine inches long in the end of 
it. They very frequently wear a blue smock 
frock, which is the universal dress of the pea¬ 
santry, and carry a bundle slung to the stick 
over their shoulders to disguise themselves. 1 
believe they are usually natives of the villages 
in which they are employed. 


/ 


44 



* 


She described also in a very animated 
manner, how she used to vend her liquors in 
time of action, when she followed the camp 
as a sutler: directly a volley had been fired, 
she used to jump up with a bottle in one hand, 
and a glass in the other, and call out who is for 
brandy: the wounded, rejoiced at having the 
slightest attention paid them in their forlorn 
situation, usually gave her a handful of money ; 
she frequently met with dead and dying 
officers, whose watch and money, she said, it 
was better for her to have, than to let them 
be buried in their pockets, or fall into the 
hands of the enemies’ soldiers. 

Between ten and eleven o’clock we retired 
to our dens. 

Sunday , 10 th September. We all arose 

very early this morning, to be ready for our 
march. Whilst we were in the yard waiting 
the arrival of our guards, a drunken soldier 
came in, and after stag'gering about for some 
time, abusing King George, pointed Kelly 
and myself out to the gend’arme as two 
deserters of whom he ought to be careful, and 
at the same time advised him to handcuff us; 
but Catharine interfered, and said he need 
not, as we had ever since conducted ourselves 


45 


quietly: we found he was the man who first 
disco\ eied us from the signal house. §Te was 
particularly inveterate against me, calling* me 
all the names lie could think of, for about a 
quarter of an hour, when I was very glad to 
get rid ol him by something else taking off 
his attention. 1 was a good deal surprised 
that he knew me again, as I was now pretty 
decently rigged, and had endeavoured to alter 
my appearance as much as possible, hoping' 
not to be known by the Commandant, or any 
one about the prison, for fear they should 
have been inclined to give a similar caution. 

About nine o’clock, twenty soldiers who 
with two gensd’annes were to be our escort, 
arrived, and with them a waggon for our 
baggage. The party consisted of thirty men 
and boys, and Mrs. Sever. Passing several of 
the wine houses, we saw a number of 
privateersmen sitting at them : as soon as they 
got sight of any at whose capture they remem¬ 
bered to have been present, they treated them 
with as much wine and grog as they would 
drink, and to some they gave money. We 
heard from them that the Capricieux, which 
was the lugger which captured the Joseph, 
was gone out on another cruise which ac- 


40 


counted for our not falling 5 in with any of her 
crew. We stopped before a baker’s shop, 
and received a three-pound loaf of brown 
bread a man, which w as to serve for two days. 
Here we were joined by three fat Russian 
sailors, who directly placed themselves behind 
the waggon, which they laid hold of; we 
laughed at them, but before we got to the end 
of our journey, often followed their example. 

A great number of the National Guards, who 
were on their w ay to join the army of Holland, 
were travelling the same road with us; they 
did not march in a body, but each kept his 
own pace, so that we did not know who were 
our guards, and who were not; they were all 
very civil. Those who understood a little 
English, were telling us of the late success 
of the Archduke Charles, and drawing com¬ 
parisons between him and Buonaparte, very 
much to the disadvantage of the latter; they 
regretted the necessity they were under of 
leaving their homes, as it was the first campaign 
of most of them: many had not been drawn 
for soldiers above a week. 

\ 

The road was much straighter, and far 
more level than any I had ever before travelled; 
as it ran nearly in the same direction with the 


47 


coast, we had a fine view of the British 
channel, and in the early part of the day, 
were tantalized with the sight of a frigate 
and a gun-brig running down the coast. 

About cue o’clock, we halted at what would 
pass even in England, as a very decent village 
ale-house: six or seven of us, who chose to 
have a dinner, were shewn into a bed room; 
the others had the two lower rooms: we had 
a very comfortable dinner, for which they only 
charged five pence a head, including a couple of 
glasses of brandy. After remaining hereabout 
an hour and a half, we renewed our march, 
and as I was in hopes of having to walk back 
the same road that night, I got upon the 
waggon, on which most of the others had 
taken a ride in the morning. 

Our present plan was, for Captain Connolly, 
Captain Curry, and myself, to escape from the 
house at which we should be lodged for the night, 
as we thought it best not to attempt getting 
away in the day time, although we could have 
separated ourselves from the others without 
much difficulty, but would not, on account of 
the number of soldiers who were straggling 
about, and most likely, there were some gens- 
d'armes behiud to> look after them. About 


48 


six o'clock, all except the sick and old were 
obliged to dismount, and walk the remainder 
of the way. At dusk, we stopped before a 
public house in sight of the town of Eu, and 
our guards were very busy in preparing for 
their entry into the town, by taking their 
knapsacks and muskets out of the waggon, 
and charging themselves with them. Whilst 
they were thus engaged, a young man came 
up to where I was standing with Captains 
Connolly and Curry, and finding, after asking 
a few questions, that we were on the road to 
prison, he said “ no Captain, you no go prison, 
very easy get way now. ,> Supposing that he 
was endeavouring to find out if we had any 
intention of getting away, one of them said, 
“ Oh yes, we must go, it is only the fortune of 
“ war, and we shall be worse off than we are 
“ at present, if we endeavour to escape.” 
To this he replied, “ This my country, no 
“ good country, I go to England along you, 
“ to night we get way, I know plenty English 
a Captain get way. One English Captain's 
“ wife, chi Ids, come from England, live my 
“ father house at Calais.” Then looking at 
Captain Curry, he said, “ Captain, I see you 
to Port-a-Port.” After a little discourse they 
found they had frequently met with each other, 
about six months before, in Oporto; this to- 


i 


49 


gether with his being* a sailor, gave us entire 
confidence in him; and Captain Connolly told 
liim, as it was our intention to escape by the 
first opportunity, if he chose to accompany us* 
he would give him a hundred guineas, besides 
the vessel which we should go over in. He 
promised to come after us, to get permission for 
us to sup and sleep at his house, and to be 
bail for our appearing at six o’clock the next 
morning, before which time, he said, he hoped 
we should be in sight of the British coast. 
We were now drawn up in close order of 
marching, and surrounded by the soldiers: being 
ordered to proceed, the young Frenchman left 
us, promising* to follow immediately. Having 
marched about a quarter of a mile, we were 
much disappointed at finding we had to enter 
a walled town, the gates of which, we expected, 
would of course be shut soon after dark. As 

- • : * ■ i r 

we passed through the town, some one found 
that Kelly was missing: after looking around 
for him, finding that certainly he was away, 
we agreed that when they mustered us, some 
person should get counted twice over. 

We were not at all pleased when we were 
obliged to halt in the Rue de la prison, before 
the town jail, in which we were to be quartered 
for the night; the appearance of it was not 
very prepossessing, as there were only two or 

JE 


three small windows towards the street, and 
a sentry box directly under them. We en¬ 
deavoured to persuade our guards and the 
jailor, that this was not a fit place for officers, 
and said they must permit us to put up at an 
inn. After a little controversy before we would 
enter, they pretended to believe what we told 
them, and promised that four or five of us 
should be allowed to go to an inn with a gen- 
d’armes, after we had been mustered; on this, 
we shouldered our baggage, and entered 
peaceably. After they had endeavoured to 
muster us about a dozen times, without being 
able to find how many of us there were, from 
the confusion we made on purpose to puzzle 
them, the young man who had spoken to us 
outside the town, came in, and being able to 
pronounce our names from the muster-roll 
more intelligibly than the jailor, he called 
them over. We told him that one was missing, 
and he assisted us in endeavouring to deceive 
the jailor, but in vain, for after spending nearly 
an hour in counting and recounting, it was at 
length settled that one was missing; the 
Serjeant under whose charge we had been, 
now began to stamp about, and swear* like 
a madman* 

On applying to go to an inn, we were 


31 


peremptorily refused on account of Kelly’s 
desertion, but were told that those who chose 
to have beds could be accommodated with them: 
accordingly seven of us applied for them. We 
were in hopes that the apartments where we 
were to be lodged, would be more vulnerable 
than that which we saw was assigned for the 
lodging of the others, which was very strong, 
and in the middle of a yard where there was 
a large dog to keep watch. We were now 
shewn up to our apartment: the way to it was 
up a very narrow staircase, and through tw6 
bed rooms : directly we had entered the third, 
which was intended for us, the door was locked, 
although our hostess and her son were inside. 
They asked us if we would have any supper; and 
on our replying that we would, they left its with¬ 
out a candle, a lad remaining in the next room 
to mind that we did not break out. We now had 
leisure to look round, and found it was a misera¬ 
ble little room, with two dirty beds, and a small 
window well barricadoed, which looked into the 
street. The walls of the room were enriched 
with several scraps of advice in English, warn¬ 
ing us to beware of the impositions which 
are daily practised in that jail, and to ask 
the price of every thing before we ordered it, 
as their charges were incredible; there were 
also many curses against the brutality of the 

Y 2 


/ 


52 



jailor, and several dismal ditties by the prisoners, 
who had been lodged here on their march at 
different times, for two or three years past, 
lamenting their absence from families, whom 
they had left entirely unprovided for. We 
discovered the names of those who marched 
before us from Dieppe : their account of the 
treatment in the jail agreed with the others. 

Our amusement in this quarter being ex¬ 
hausted, we began singing out for the landlord, 
and gave a few kicks against the door to 
hasten his appearance; this alarmed the lad 
who was watching in the next room so much, 
that he joined in our cry ; the woman now came 
running up with our supper, although it had 
not been ordered a quarter of an hour. Di¬ 
rectly she entered our room, the door was 
locked as before, and she stood with a tureen 
of soup in one hand, and a piece of beef in 
the other, refusing to put either down until 
she was in possession of Vargent, which she 
frequently demanded ; we told her we would 
pay willingly as soon as we had finished our 
suppers, but we must be treated with civility, 
and were not accustomed to pay for victuals be¬ 
fore they were eaten ; all this was to no purpose ; 
we therefore took the soup, and were about to 

'•i 

serve it round, but the first spoonful that was 


53 


taken up, caused it to be passed round for 
the opinion of the company : the result was, 
that as it appeared to be only warm water 
stirred round with a tallow candle, and some 
piece of bread put into it, it could not be 
thought fit diet for an Englishman, and it was 
consequently heaved out of the window. The 
the woman still refusing to part with the beef un¬ 
til she was paid for it, one of the party, angry at 
being placed on the footing of a thief, dashed it to 
the ground, and broke the dish, telling her at 
the same time, he would pay her for it. 

We now enquired of her, where we were to 
sleep; she said that Captain Sever and his 
wife were to have one bed, and as many of 
the other five as could, were to get into the 
other, those who could not, must lie down on 
the floor, and that we must all pay imme¬ 
diately ten-pence a head, which was double 
what they told us before we came up stairs. 
Determined not to put up with such impositions, 
we agreed to go and sleep with the rest of 
the people. As we proceeded through the other ' 
rooms, we met the jailor, and the gend’armes 
who was attached to the prison, coming to 
know the cause of the disturbance; the young 
man who came to conduct us to his house, 
and still remained with us, explained it to them 


54 


when he had finished, the gendarmes began 
to interrogate him, enquiring who he was, where 
he came from, and what business he had with 
us; whilst the jailor conducted us to the place 
where the others were confined. Finding they 
had no light, we were about to buy a farthing 
.candle for fourpence, but were told not to 
do so by those who had been put here before us, 
as they had already bought two at the same 
rate, but were not allowed to light either, as 
there was powder in the building. 

We found that Kelly was brought back again. 
He said that when we stopped outside of the 
town, he went into the public house to get some 
drink, when the young man, who afterwards 
spoke to us, told him if he chose to remain 
w ith him, he should have a protection which he 
had, and that he would get him a birth on 
board a ship at Havre de Grace. Glad of 
the offer, he went into a bed room, which they 
shewed him, and turned into a bed; but after 
lying about an hour, he was obliged to come to 
the prison, with some persons who w r ere sent 
in search for him. 

i \ ' » . » 

We were obliged to lie down about the door 
in the clearest places we could find, as the 


55 


room, being small, was already pretty well 
filled. I laid down with one sack of clothes 
under the hollow of my back, and another 
under the back of my knees, so that I was 
more in the shape of a snake, than of any thing 
else; each one described himself to be in as 
bad a position, some with their head lying on 
their neighbours’ feet, and others with the feet 

# i 

of their neighbour on their head, body, or legs. 

11 th September . About midnight, and again 
at two in the morning, our keeper looked in 
to see if all was safe. About four o’clock 
he opened the door for us, and glad enough 
we were to be released from this kind of 
rest, as we were now more fatigued than when 
we arrived yesterday evening. When Captain 
Sever, who on account of having his wife 
with him, retained the bed to which he had 
been appointed, joined us, we were extremely 
sorry to hear that our French friend wa* 
detained prisoner, as he was not able to give 
a satisfactory account of himself, and that he 
would have to undergo an examination before 
the mayor this morning. About six o’clock, 
we received the wished-for order to bring 
out our baggage, as the waggon was arrived, 
and about seven we renewed our march, quite 
disgusted with this sample of French politesse. 


/ 


and, as we expected the same sort of treatment 
during the remainder of the journey, earnestly 
wishing it at an end : all that we regretted, was 
the misfortune of our acquaintance, although 
he said it was nothing at all, as he passed us 
on his way to the mayor’s. As we were passing 
through the town, the mayor joined us^ and 
after asking several questions, concerning people 
in the North of England, where he had re¬ 
sided for some time, enquired how we had been 
treated in the jail : we told him in a most 
scandalous mariner. He said he frequently had 
complaints from the English prisoners, who had 
been lodged there from time to time, and was 
often sent for by them, which plan he wished 
we had also taken, as he would have made 
us more comfortable: he then enquired how 
we became acquainted with the young French¬ 
man who was detained; this I believe was the 
cause of his joining us ; we told him that he 
met us accidentally, just before we entered the 
town, and as none of us could speak French, 
he very kindly offered to do any thing in his 
power to oblige us. On this, he said he should be 

< f __ 

obliged to send him to Dieppe, but that nothing 

t 

would be done to him. He informed us that 
Eu was eight leagues from Dieppe, one from 
Tresport, & small harbour at the mouth of 
the river, which runs through Eu, and eight 


£7 


from Abbeville, at which place we were to 
lodge this night; he then left us and returned 
towards the town. 

The cart we now had, was much smaller 
than that of yesterday, and there was only 
one horse to it, instead of three. After we 
had proceeded a mile or two at a very 
slow pace, we came to a field where a man 
was ploughing with one horse: this was joined 
on to our cart* and we proceeded more expe¬ 
ditiously. Whether this horse belonged to the 
owner of the cart, or was taken c en requisition/ 

I cannot say for certain, but am inclined to 
think the latter was the case. On cominof to 
a country public house, some of us went into 
it with several of the soldiers, and got some 
excellent milk, of which 1 made a much better * 
breakfast than I expected to have met with 
that day. 

After marching about two leagues, we lost 
sight of the sea ; the road was much the same 
as yesterday; the country was very level, al¬ 
though high, and no division between the fields, 
which are chiefly sown with wheat and flax; 
the villages, which are not numerous, appear 

4 

to be so many small woods, as there is usually 
a number of trees planted about them, and 


0 


58 

most of the houses have a large orchard round 
them; the few single cottages, or rather hovels, 
which are scattered about, as well as those of 
the smaller villages, are usually very coarsely 
constructed of mud, and are not better than 
those of the poorest sort in Ireland: those of 
the larger villages and about the suburbs of 
towns, are inferior to English ones in the same 
situations; the roads in many parts are lined 
with apple trees on each side. About noon, 
we stopped for an hour at a village ale-house 
and got some dinner, for which we paid much 
dearer than yesterday, although it was not 
near as good. 

On approaching Abbeville, we got sight of 
a considerable body of water, which at first 
we took for the sea, but on asking a gend’armes, 
he told us it was the river Somme. To enter 
the town, which is pretty strongly fortified, we 
had to pass it by a bridge, near which we 
saw a sloop of about thirty tons building, and 
to go through three gates. The river runs 
through the town, and there was a number of 
boats on it. We pleased ourselves with the idea 
that if we were fortunate enough to escape 
from our lodging, it would not be difficult 
to take a boat and go down the river in 
her, then either take a larger, or cross the 


59 


channel in her, as we should find most com 
venient. 

On entering* the jail, we found it much larger 
than that of Eu: it contained twenty or 
thirty prisoners, who were here for various of¬ 
fences ; a great part of them were soldiers. 
Seven of us who wished for beds, were shewn 
into a decent room with four beds in it, and 
were very civilly treated all the evening, al¬ 
though the walls contained memorandums of 
former Englishmen who had not been so for¬ 
tunate. The rest of the prisoners were lodged 
in a chapel, which stood in the middle of the 
yard, and were rather better accommodated than 
the Frenchmen who were confined here; com¬ 
fortably as we were accommodated in compa¬ 
rison with the last night, it did not at all please 
us to hear that we were to remain stationary all 
the next day. 

12 tli September. Early in the morning, a man 
came in with the jailor, to persuade us to hire 
his cart for the conveyance of our baggage on 
the morrow, telling us at the same time, that 
the government did not provide one for us 
any further. We positively refused to comply 
with any thing of the kind, thinking it not 
very likely that a waggon would be allowed 
for two stages, and not for the remainder of the 


60 


journey. A long altercation ensued, and we 
determined to leave our baggage behind, rather 
than submit to any imposition of the kind; they 
said it must be so if we would not pay. 

After breakfast, I took a turn into the yard, 
which is pretty large: one side is occupied by 
eight or ten dungeons, each of which is en¬ 
tered by two very strong doors. In one of 
them, an old man was confined in chains, who, 
we were told, had been there many years on 
account of his being mad : he was a most miser- 
ble object; when he was let out in the day-time 
for an hour or two, he amused himself in taking 
care of some tobacco plants, which were 
growing in the yard, opposite his cell; another 
man who was slightly deranged, was confined 
at night only, in an adjoining cell, without 
fetters. 

No provision was served out to us this day, 
but we got a shoulder of mutton dressed for 
our dinner, which was the first decent meal 
we had made, since we were taken. 

1 3th September . Whilst we were at break¬ 
fast, the man who was with us yesterday 
morning persuading us to hire his waggon, 
returned on the same errand; we desired the 


I 


GX 

jailor to send for the commissary of war; he 
pretended to do so, and brought word back 
that he was out of town, but had brought with 
him the landlord of the English Hotel to 
stand interpreter; by him we again informed 
them, it was our determination not to pay for 
any cart, but rather to leave our baggage 
behind. Whilst we were talking, we were 
much surprised to see two gensd’armes go into 
the yard with a number of small chains and 
padlocks, with which they proceeded to unite 
all our fellow prisoners by couples; having 
finished with them, we were called down, and 
coupled in the same manner; they were going 
to chain Mrs. Sever and an old man upwards 
of seventy, but on every one in the room crying' 
out against it, they left them alone. We now 
received a loaf of bread a man and 2s. 2fd. 
amongst the whole of us. Being all ready 
for marching, they told us very angrily to 
bring out our baggage, and on opening the 
door, we saw the cart which had been waiting 
there, even at the time they were telling us 
none was allowed. Our bill came to less than 
we expected. 

Our escort this day consisted of two gens¬ 
d’armes, and five Death and Glory boys, about 
twelve hundred of whom are usually stationed 


62 


at Abbeville. We were to lodge this night at 
Dourlens, which is nine leagues distant. As we 
passed through the town, several of our company 
were ^shamed of the chains, but for my part, I 
considered them as no disgrace to us, and when 
I saw any person looking at us, I shook my chain 
at them, and asked as well as I could, if that 
was not a civil way of treating British pri¬ 
soners of war, as if we were thieves or mur¬ 
derers. Most of those we passed, appeared 
sorry to see how we were treated, and several 
of the women gave some halfpence to the little 
boys who were with us. Ten or twelve boys 
who were of our party, being barefooted, were 
allowed to ride all the morning, as it was a 
long march. 

About noon we stopped as usual for an hour to 
rest ourselves, during which time our chains 
were taken off. When we came to settle for 
our dinner, they charged us at least five or 
six times as much as they ought to have done; 
we endeavoured to persuade the gensd’armes 
to interfere in our behalf, but from their be¬ 
haviour, were led to suspect they had a share in 
the plunder, and were obliged to pay what was 
demanded. On renewing our march, those of 
11 s who passed for officers, were not chained, 
and those who had walked in the morning* 


63 


now took their turn on the cart; a rope was 
made fast to the chains of the others, and one 
end of it coining to the tail of the cart, they 
were Obliged to keep up, although at times 
we drove very fast. The road lay through 
several large woods, which made our guard 
particularly vigilant, as they, by being mounted 
would have been under a very great disad¬ 
vantage in pursuing us, had we once been able 
to escape into the wood. 

About seven o’clock we arrived at Dourlens, 
which is a considerable town, and pretty well 
fortified in the Department de la Somme. 
Before we came to the gates, the road was 
lined with several hundreds of mud huts, of a 
miserable appearance; but in the town are many 
large well-built houses. We were taken into 
the citadel, and given in charge to the jailor, 
who took those of us who could pay for beds, 
into his house : the others were put into a large 
vault under a building, which appeared to have 
been a church. After supper four were pro¬ 
vided with beds at the jailor’s, other six 
of us were shewn to the church, which is very 
long, and has eight or nine beds at one end of 
it. We were not allowed to settle amongst 
ourselves with whom, or in which bed we would 
sleep : this they settled for us, and I was ap¬ 
pointed to the second with our mate. 


64 


14/7* September . Early in the morning' we 
were awaked by some of our comrades turn¬ 
ing out to rid themselves of the vermin by 
which they were attacked in all quarters: 
those who were farthest from the head of 
the room were worst off; we were very 'for¬ 
tunate. About nine o’clock the jailor came 
to fetch us to breakfast; as we went we spoke 
to our fellow prisoners through the bars: they 
told us they had neither straw nor water, and 
that the quantity of vermin was incredible. 
We prevailed on the jailor to send them some 
water, but they were not allowed to come out of 
their miserable prison all that day. There was a 
number of Austrian prisoners in the same house 
with us, but we were not allowed to speak to 
them, being obliged to remain in our room all 
the day; even this we considered as a very 
great degree of liberty, compared with the 
miserable situation of our fellow prisoners. 

. / * 4 ' 

At night when we returned to our bed-room, 
two Frenchmen who had occupied the first 
bed, being gone, we were all promoted one 
bed higher up. My bedfellow and myself found 
very little cause to be pleased with the pro¬ 
motion, as we were not able to get any sleep, 
on account of the various vermin with which 
we were tormented; those who slept in the 


65 


bed we had the night before, were not any 
better off than ourselves, and in short we were all 
glad to get to the further end of the room and 
leave our beds entirely. 

1 5th September . About seven o’clock we 
had the pleasure of being let out to proceed 
on our march. Our fellow prisoners when they 
joined us, gave a dismal account of the situation 
they had been in during the preceding day, 
and two nights ; the place in w hich they had been 
kept being very cold and damp, as it was about 
thirty feet under ground. An old man, who 
had been gunner of this citadel, was con¬ 
fined here ki chains for many years, for having 
given up the keys of the gates during some 
period of the revolution, but he is now dead. 

9 

We continued our journey in the same order 
in which we arrived here; that is, the soi- 
disant officers alone being unchained, and 
the rest, except those who were riding, made 
fast at the tail of the cart. Two gensd’armes 
with five or six other soldiers, had charge of 
us, and our destination was Arras, eight 
leagues distant. The chief gend’armes disliked 
Englishmen very much, and we had several quar¬ 
rels with him on the march, in which he used to 

r 


i 


66 





slash his sword about in great stile within half 
an inch of our heads: he had served in 
America, and endeavoured to frighten Mrs. 
Sever by shewing her the manner in which 
he had been accustomed to cut off English¬ 
men’s heads, at the same time making blows 
within an inch or two of her’s; but she told 
him that although he was a gend’armes, she 
was sure he was no soldier, from the manner in 
which he behaved to a woman. This reply made 
him flourish his sword about afresh, but he 
soon afterwards returned it to the scabbard, 
where it remained for the remainder of the 
day. On coming near a large wood, they made 
us deliver up our knives. The day was very 
rainy, and we had to pass through several 
vdlages, in which we got up to our knees in 
mud, neither the roads nor streets in France 
having any path for foot passengers. At each 
end of most of the villages hereabout, is a 
large image of the Crucifixion; they have 
been repaired within the last year or two, but 
appeared to receive very little adoration from 
the inhabitants. 

About noon- we stopped as usual, and the 
braggart gend’armes, with the soldiers, were 
relieved by six or eight gardes champetres, 
-—a poor miserable looking set of villagers, 


07 


some of them past their labour, and turned 
into soldiers because they were lit for nothing 
else. The gend’armes who remained with us, 
was quite the reverse of his former companion; 
and when we had got out of sight of the 
village, he returned those of our knives which 
he had received from his comrade, who did 
not forget to keep some of the best of them. 
Before sunset we arrived at Arras, which is 
a large and strongly fortified city; it was 
formerly capital of the Duchy of Artois, and 
is at present, chief place of the Department 
du Pas de Calais. We were taken to the town 
jail, which is very large, and at the time con¬ 
tained about a hundred and twenty persons, for 
various offences. When we were given in 
charge to the jailor, those whose knives had 
been kept, applied to the gend’armes for them; 
he assured us he had delivered all that he had 
received; on this Ned Giles abused him, as 
he was rather intoxicated, and on the jailor 
interfering, abused him also; for which he 
was immediately clapped in irons and confined 
under ground. 

We here met with two fellow-countrymen; 
one wasaCaptain Howker, of a Jersey privateer, 
who had been prisoner about five years. He 
did not know the exact offence for which he 

F 2 


68 


was sent to this jail, but supposed it to be for 
arguing on politics with some Frenchmen; he 
had been here six weeks, and had expected to 
be sent to Bitche, but was now beginning to 
hope it would be a less punishment. He had 
already been sent there twice, for complaining of 
the grievances of the prisoners; by whom, in 
Consequence of his being able to w rite the French 
language fluently, he was very frequently ap¬ 
plied to. He described Bitche to us as a very 
strong fortress, situated near the banks of the 
Bh ine, on a high rock; and told us that all 
the English prisoners who deserted from, or 
otherwise misbehaved themselves at, any depot, 
were sent there, and the offence of which 
they had been guilty, was marked against 
their name: there they are lodged in a large 
room under ground, which is occupied by 
about five hundred deserters, debtors, black¬ 
guards, and thieves, from the different English 
prisons; it is at times nearly up to a man’s 
knees in water; the only daylight which 
enters, is by some windows which are close 
against the roof, so that they are obliged to 
burn candles continually: the prisoners are 
let out from about ten until noon, and again 
from two until four or five o’clock, during which 
the gensd’armes who are attached to the depot, 
parade about with them, to maintain order. 


69 


The other Englishman we found here was a 
ship carpenter, who had been prisoner about 
three years, and was sent to this jail until a 
convoy was ready for Bitche, as he had deserted 
from the citadel in May with twenty-two others, 
all of whom had been retaken at different times 
before him : his intention had been to escape by 
the way of Holland, but after travelling some 
time in that direction, he was advised by some 
Flemings not to proceed, as a great number of 
troops were in the neighbourhood : he then tra¬ 
velled to the westward, intending to be off with a 
boat: he saw many hauled on the beach, in 
different parts, but it required six or eight 
men to launch one of them : he was at length 
taken at Boulogne, in attempting to carry a boat 
out of the harbour. During his travels which 
lasted a month, he never slept under cover, 
and was frequently in want of victuals and 
drink ; the country people, particularly in 
Flanders, behaved very friendly towards him; 
and those who guessed what he was, used to 
advise him which road to take. 

They informed us that there were not above 
five hundred prisoners at present in the citadel 
of Arras; the others, to the number of 2500, 
having been sent in the course of the last 
month, to Besanjon, which is at the distance 


\ 


70 


of three hundred and thirty miles, on the borders 
of Swisserland. 

V f* <t i (I ; ‘ « I '4 *' f } L ( i . r '! f ( ;■ > f » ' * - JO • • f ClfVl ! . 

k ‘ . i i f j $ . . ’ • 4 \ c* • » • « 2 * ► / > J Hi > 

We supped with the jailor, who told us the 
prtce was fifteen pence a head, but although the 
supper was scanty, obliged us to pay eighteen 
pence, because, as he said, we ate so much: 
this barefaced imposition quite disgusted us, 
and at the same time served as a warning of 
what we might expect if we once were in his 

t * \ 

power. To keep clear of him for the 
future, we used to buy a joint of meat, 
and have it together with the prison allowance 
in our room ; the allowance was a pound and 
a half of bread, about three ounces of beef, 
some soup, and a piece of white bread bigger 
than an English penny roll, to put into it. 
Seven of us who messed together, had a very 
good room, with four beds in it ; the rest 

of the prisoners had two comfortable rooms, 

/ 

with a truss of straw for eatfh two persons. 
In these we were locked up from sunset until 
seven in the morning; during the day we had 
the range of a large yard, and the greatest part 
of the house, which is very extensive, having 
been a convent: it is now the property of an 
old lady, who bears the whole expense of a 
sick ward for the accommodation of the 




71 


prisoners, which she frequently visits, and of 
a chapel which she attends daily. 

Saturday , 16^7* September. In the morning 
we applied to the jailor to release Ned Giles; 
this he positively refused to do, saying that if we 
remained here a month, he should not be 
released, as he struck him last night. 

Thursday , 21 st September. Being quite weary 
of continuing at this jail, we prevailed on 
Captain Howker to write a petition to the 
Commissary of War, requesting we might be 
allowed to continue our journey as speedily as 
possible, also to represent the impositions we 
suffered during the whole of our march, but 
particularly at this place, where we were 
charged double or treble the value of every 
thing we got. 

In the evenin g, a clerk came to us with 3s. 9d. 
for each of the two captains and three mates^ 
and 5d. a head for the rest, which is the 
marching money allowed for two days, and at this 
rate we ought to have been paid all our journey. 
He bought also a feuille de route, which is similar 
to a passport, containing our names and des¬ 
criptions, the place we are going to, &c. on it 
is kept an account of the money and provisions 
we receive on the journey. 


e 


12 


The names of Captain Howker, Mauvais Sujet, 
the carpenter, Dcserteur , and a person who had 
been sent here from the Citadel a day or two 
before, Voleur , were inserted in the list, as on 
their march to Bitche, and we were all to set 
off together on the next morning : this made 
poor Captain Howker half mad, as he had been 
flattering himself with the hope of being soon 
returned to the Citadel. 

22nd September. When we came down this 
morning*, we found Giles released. He said 
he had not seen daylight during the week he 
had been confined; once a day a man used to 
bring him bread and water, a very small quan¬ 
tity of which he had any appetite for; the place 
was very cold and damp, notwithstanding which 
it was very well stored with vermin, who preyed 
on him at pleasure, as he had not the use of 
his hands to disturb them. 

About eight o’clock, we set out on our march 
towards Douay, which is five leagues and a half 
distant; our escort was three gensd’armes, and 
five gardes champetres. A house was pointed 
out to us, as the former residence of Robespierre: 
it is very large, and is at present occupied in the 
manner of alms-houses, by a number of aged 
people. He was either a native or an in* 


73 


habitant of this place before the revolution, at 
which period Arras and Douay were amongst 
the most riotous cities in France. 

V 

We arrived safe about five o’clock, and were 
conducted to a small jail on the walls of the town, 
directly over one of the gates. We were obliged 
to pay a crown for our baggage being brought 
up to us, as they would not allow us to do it 
ourselves. In this jail we met witii Captain 
.Capeland of Guernsey, Captain Patty of London, 
and eleven other Englishmen, who had deserted 
from Cambray in July, with about twenty others. 
Capeland, Patty, and Davidson, a mate, had 
reached the sea-side together, after a journey of 
sixteen nights, during which time they suffered 
a great deal from hunger, thirst,and fatigue:—the 
first nine days they lived entirely on what they 
were fortunate enough to meet with in the fields, 
and gardens, as wheat, apples, carrots, and wild 
roots ; the bread which they took with them from 
the citadel being entirely destroyed by the tor¬ 
rents of rain which fell the first night of their 
journey: every day they had been obliged to 
hide in the corn fields, entirely exposed to the 
scorching sun, and often suffering from thirst. 
The seventeenth night, they heard the roaring of 
the waves, and by day-break arrived close to the 
beach, where a number of fishing boats of all 


74 


sizes were lying, but as they saw a Privateer 
turning into the bay, and day was breaking fast, 
they thought it most prudent to secrete themselves 
until night. After gratifying themselves with a 
draught of salt water from a canal, they went in 
search of a hiding place; the best they could find 
was in a small patch of corn near the road side, 
in the middle of which they laid down, and re¬ 
mained quiet until about two in the afternoon, 
when they suspected from the conversation of two 
or three little boys who were keeping some cows 
from trespassing on the corn, that they were dis¬ 
covered. The boys went away, but returned in 
about half an hour; after taking two or three 
turns round the corn to see how many there were, 
they went away again. The deserters now thought 
it high time to shift their quarters, and accord- 
ingly went behind a neighbouring hedge, where 
they had not been long, when they saw the boys 
return accompanied by nearly a score custom¬ 
house officers, who immediately went to the 
corn, but finding no person there, began search¬ 
ing about in all directions ; after passing the 
hedge three times, they at length discovered the 
unfortunate trio, by tracing their footsteps in the 
sand. They were conducted to the nearest vil¬ 
lage, and had scarcely arrived at an ale-house, 
where they were lodged for the night, when it 
began to rain, thunder, and lighten tremendously, 


75 


and continued to do so all the evening. No 
weather could have been more favourable for 
taking away a boat, as they would neither have 
been seen nor heard in such a storm ; the wind 
also was quite fair for England. Had the storm 
commenced before they were discovered, the 
search would have been given over, and most 
likely they would have got safe to England. 
The whole village soon assembled to see 
these strange animals, for such it may easily 
be supposed they appeared to be, after having 
been so long exposed to the weather without 
shaving, and their clothes covered with dirt, be¬ 
sides being much torn : their being Englishmen 
also, added much to the novelty of the sight. One 
woman who came with the crowd was crying 
very bitterly ; on inquiring the cause, they were 
informed that her husband was a prisoner in 
England, and that seeing them in their deplorable 
situation, made her remember that he possibly 
was in as bad a one. As soon as the crowd who 
had behaved very quietly, were gone, the prison* 
ers were glad to get some victuals: a supper of 
bread, butter and eggs, was all that the house 
afforded, and for this they were obliged to pay 
£ 1. 10s. 10 d. which was four or five times as 
much as they ought to have done. They found 
they were about five miles to the westward of 
Dunkirk, to which place they were to beconductfcd 


76 


oil the following* day. The boys, it seemed, by 
whom they were discovered, first went and in- 
formed a guard of soldiers of it, but they paid 
no attention, saying, <£ they were only weary 
travellers, who had laid themselves down to 
reston this the boys having looked again at 
them, went to a village, in which a great number 
of custom-house officers had arrived, to search 
for some sugar and coffee, which had been landed 
the night before from an English lugger. The 
greater part of their guards laid down in a back 
room with them, and three or four kept watch \ 
They sounded one of the guards about letting them 
get away again, but he said it was out of the 
question to attempt any thing of the kind, as there 
were so many concerned, and their capture was so 
well known to the village; otherwise he would 
have been very glad to have settled the affair more 
to the satisfaction of both parties. They were 
much pleased to find all three were officers, as the 
reward for their apprehension is double that for 
the apprehension of a sailor. If I remember cor¬ 
rectly, forty eight livres is the reward for ap¬ 
prehending an officer who has deserted, to be 
paid when they are returned to the depot. 

K i 41 i 2 ■ 4 • • • • # « i . t • t i . k i 4 « ' 

In the morning they made a bargain for their 
breakfast, to prevent being imposed upon as 
they had been the night before: about six 
o’clock they set out for Dunkirk, at which place 


11 


they were brought before the officer of gens- 
d’armerie, who questioned them from whence they 
had deserted, and their names* On their inform¬ 
ing him, he produced their descriptions and 
names, which had been received from Cambrai, 
and finding they were the persons they repre¬ 
sented themselves to be, he searched and took aw ay 
their watches, money, and papers, which were to 
sent in charge of the gensd’armes, by whom they 
would be escorted to the depot; allowing them 
to draw as much as they expended at the different 
jails. The officer told them, that if their watches, 
&c. had been taken from them at the time they 
were arrested, there would have been no redress, 
as it is made lawful prize by a late act. From 
him they were conducted to the town jail, where 
they met with ten others, who had deserted at 
the same time with themselves, five of whom 
had been arrested by the Police officers, as 
they were going through the gates of Dunkirk: 
the other five got sight of the sea one morning 
at day-break, and secreted themselves until 
about four o'clock in the afternoon; when being 
very hungry and having no money, one proposed 
to set out whilst it was light, that they might 
be ready to take a boat directly it became 
dark ; this was agreed to by another or two, and 
in spite of the remonstrances of the others, who 
were obliged to follow their companions, rathe 


78 


than remain behind. They had not gone far 
before they met a man, who knowing what they 
W'ere by their dress, &c. addressed them, and 
said, “ that if they continued travelling during 
the day, they would certainly be arrested very 
soon;” he offered to let them stop in his house 
until dark, if they chose to return with him, and 
they accepted his offer. On arriving at the house, 
he gave them some bread and cheese, but 
whilst they were eating it, he caused the house 
to be surrounded by his neighbours, and they 
found themselves once more deprived of that 
blessing, liberty ; the next day they w ere lodged 
in the jail of Dunkirk, from which place they 
were about three miles distant when arrested. 

About a week after Capeland’s arrival, the 
whole party began their march; after a day’s 
journey, they usually had to remain stationary 
for the ensuing week or ten days, and at Lisle, 
the chief place of the military division, they 
were detained six weeks in one of the worst 
prisons in Franee. The refractory conscripts and 
deserters from the army, who were confined 
with them, having the advantage of numbers, 
added greatly to the unpleasantness of their 
situation, by taking the best places in the prison, 
and frequently depriving them of their straw, 
with many other triflingvexationsj butthey were 


79 


advised not to make any complaints, as it would 
only aggravate their situation, the General of 
the place having an avowed dislike to the 
English. Being at length allowed to proceed, 
they had arrived at Douai the day before our 
party, where the conscripts and others, to the 
number of 40 or 50, were proceeding to exercise 
the same tyranny over them, which their country¬ 
men at Lisle had done; but by the timely arrival of 
thirty able bodied seamen, which composed our 
detachment, the tables were turned, and ‘ les 
deserteurs Anglais,’ could again go quietly to 
sleep without fear of losing their straw, by the 
encroachment of their fellow prisoners. 

Five of us hired beds in the same room with 
Captains Patty and Capeland, which were se¬ 
parated from the parapet, by only a narrow path. 
As we were waiting outside, whilst the door was 
being unlocked, we looked over, and one of 
the party proposed, that in case we should be 
able to force the door or window in the room, 
and bribe the sentry, we should descend by means 
of our sheets and blankets on to the high road, 
although the height was at least 80 feet. I 
did not at all like this proposal, and said that 
1 would not attempt it, until all the others were 
safe landed, as I should expect to see the first 
obliged to take a flying leap for the last 40 or 
50 feet, for want of more blankets, See. The 


30 




thought of such a scheme, whilst 1 looked a* 
the diminished passengers and carriages below* 
made me shudder. The door of the room we 
were now in, which was the cleanest we had been 
lodged in during* our excursion in France, was 
very strong and secured well on the outside, 
and the window was barricadoed with stout iron 
bars. After attentively examining every part of 
the room, w r e could find no part vulnerable, our 
only instruments being pocket knives. The 
moon shone very bright, and w r e sat round the 
window for an hour or two, enjoying the serenity 
of the evening. The sentry, who was an old garde 
national, had, we found, no objection to join in 
a glass or two of brandy, but as we could 
not get out of the room, it was useless to pro¬ 
pose any thing to him about letting us off. 

Saturday , 2»3 rd September. We were awaked 
by the sun shining in upon us, which we had 
not been accustomed to of late ; and from the 
window, we had the view of a most beautiful 
landscape, enlivened by a delightful morning. 
The sight made us all quite cheerful, although 
we could not help remembering that it was not to 
be enjoyed by us; we w'ere to be shut up the 
whole day, with scarcely a glimpse of the sun. 
We had been informed we were not to renew 
our march until the morrow $ as a man was to 


81 


be executed this day, for speaking against the 
government, and the attendance of all the military 
w ould be required. We were told, that a short 
time before, a man who had arrived from the 
neighbourhood of Walcheren, was arrested and 
sent to Paris, for saying that the English made 
a descent on that island ; as it had not been an¬ 
nounced by the government. 

■ J - ' . s* 

We agreed with Capeland and the other deser¬ 
ters, who made sure of being sent toBitche, that if 
we were marched together, we would secure the 
guards, knock off the deserters’ handcuffs, and 
all have a fair start in different parties, accord¬ 
ing to our inclinations; all our plans for desert¬ 
ing on the journey, having been hitherto frus¬ 
trated. Being now arrived at the last stage, 
I was determined to make an attempt on the 
ensuing day’s journey, without waiting for any 
companion, as it was my intention, if once ar¬ 
rived at the depot, to give over all thoughts 
of deserting, and to apply my time to learning 
French. 

Sunday , 24 th September . At day-light, we 
prepared for our march, by putting on as many 
clothes as we could conveniently wear; I put 
on three shirts and a flannel waistcoat; I also 
cut a piece of bread, about two pounds in weight, 

CJ 


82 


to fit the inside of my hat, and two other pieces 
to fit my coat pockets. Being 1 thus accoutred, 
we began our march at eight o’clock for Cam- 
brai, distant 5 and \ leagues* with the same party 
with which we arrived here; the gensd’armes 
not liking to take charge of the deserters with 
so large a party. Although Capeland and his 
friends were left behind, the greater part of our 
company were resolutely determined on securing 
our conductors, who were only five in number: 
but it so turned out, that we seldom went half 
a mile without being met, either by a waggon, 
or chaise, or some gensd’armerie; about 150 of 
whom passed us on this day’s march in small 
parties, of from two or three to a dozen each, on 
their way to join the army of Holland. Meeting 
w ith any kind of carriage was quite unexpected 
by us; for until we passed Arras, we scarcely saw 
one, and whenever we chanced to meet w ith a 
traveller, which was not often, he was sure to 
be stopped, and obliged to produce his pass¬ 
port. At about three o’clock we arrived at 
Cambrai, without any of us having been able 
to accomplish our designs of desertion, either 
separately, or in a body. I was much tired 
from the weight of my clothes, and had a 
head-ache, from being obliged to wear my 
hat during the march, on account of a drizzling" 
rain. I scarcely knew' whether to be glad or 


83 

sorry, that we were arrived at the end of our 
journey, for whilst we were moving' about, I 
thought there was some chance of escaping; 
but, at the same time, the expense was con- 
derable, and the inconveniences were very great; 
besides the continual insults we were obliged 
to put up with, from the inhumanity of the 
gensd’armerie. 

» 

After being conducted through the town, we 
arrived at the citadel, which was to be our 
abode. I was agreeably surprized at finding 
it a fine roomy place, about half a mile in 
circumference, without walls, or any thing 
to obstruct the view and air; the buildings, 
which are elegant, were all in high order. 
Having for some time past, been accustomed 
only to the tarred clothes of a merchant ship, 
and the filth of French jails, I was also struck 
with the cleanly appearance of my poor country¬ 
men, who eagerly flocked round us, to see if 
they could meet with any old shipmates. We 
saw several of those who had been confined 
with us at Dieppe, whom we now considered 
as old acquaintances. We were not allowed, how¬ 
ever, to converse together, until we had been to 
the Commandant, at whose office the Marshal 
Logie(nearly thesame with aserjeant) overhauled 
the bags and trunks for ropes, and took away 

G 2 


every piece of line he could find. We next at¬ 
tended on the muster-master, who shewed us 
our rooms. Two captains, three chief mates, 
and Mr. Curry, who passed for owner of his 
ship, were quartered in officers’ building’s; 
Captain Sever and his wife, had a room to 
themselves in Cantine buildings ; the rest of us 
were put into No 22, Long' buildings. This ar¬ 
rangement disappointed me very much, as I 
expected to have passed for a merchant pas¬ 
senger, and as such, to have received the pay, 
and lived with the officers; but I found out 
my mistake when it was too late; for I had 
been set down as ‘seaman,’ by the Commis¬ 
sary, when we were first landed, who seeing 
me dressed in an old blue jacket and trowsers, 
did not think it necessary to ask what I was, 
and I supposing it to be of no consequence 
until our arrival at the depot, thought it would 
be as well not to give myself out for a merchant, 
until I was able to appear a little more like one. 

We had a straw mattrass and one blanket 
served out to every two persons : these we spread 
on the bricks at night, and hung up by pegsinth^ 
wall during the day. We received also a stove, and 
some coals, with an iron pot to cook for twenty 
persons, which is the number allotted to each 
room, and which they contain with ease. We 


had to make out a list of our names, and choose 
a captain to draw provisions, See. for the room: 
the majority being of our crew, I was unani¬ 
mously chosen ; but declined the honour, as T 
was determined not to remain a week in that 
building, but, if it was not in my power to get 
a better, to run the hazard of a worse. 

Monday , 2 ?>th September . This morning we 
received provisions for three days; which were, 
three pounds of brown bread, and one pound 
and a half of beef per man, with a small quan¬ 
tity of salt, vinegar, and peas; this, together 
with three farthings a day, and a suit of clothes 
once in about eighteen months, is all that is 
allowed by the French government. From the 
English committee appointed for distributing 
the money allowed by the Patriotic Fund, at 
Lloyd’s, to prisoners of war in France, each 
sailor received seven-pence; and I as a passenger 
not on French pay, received Is. 10fd. which 
sum we were to receive weekly. Without this 
assistance, small as it may appear in England, 
there would scarcely have remained a prisoner in 
France; as they would have been either obliged 
by their necessities to enter into the French 
service, or have perished miserably for want 

of the common necessaries of life: thus have 

/ , 

the subscribers to this truly Patriotic Fund, most 


86 


effectually served about 10,000 British seamen 
and soldiers, by allowing them a penny a day, 
to supply themselves with the absolute con¬ 
veniences of life; and to the assistance which 
I received from this fund, I with gratitude 
acknowledge myself in a great measure in¬ 
debted for my present liberty. 

• i 4 * 

The allowance to officers from the French 
government, is 29 livres per month, which is 
equal to lOd. per day; a bedstead, straw and 
flock mattrasses, a blanket and a clean pair of 
sheets monthly, to every two persons: with 
firing, provisions, and clothes, they have to sup¬ 
ply themselves, from the 29 livres. On their 
first arrival, they receive each 12 livres from 
the committee; and when the funds are in a 
state to allow it, the same sum is given to every 
officer, three or four times a year. 

The prisoners at Cambrai, form three distinct 
classes. The first is that of the officers, and 
includes all those who receive the 29 livres, as 
captains, chief-mates, owners, and passengers; 
who can prove that they had property on board, 
to the amount of £40. 

The second class are called 4 under-tonnage 
people;’ and consists of captains of vessels 


s 


87 

under 80 tons burthen, of passengers who had no 
property on board, and of those persons who 
have a claim to the 29 livres, but are detained 
from receiving it until they get certificates from 
the port they were first brought into; which 
sometimes takes twelve months. These receive 
9 livres a month, from the Patriotic Fund; the 
women and children receive 6 livres each; as 
females have no other allowance from the 
French, than one pound and a half of bread per 
day. The son of a prisoner receives full allow¬ 
ance of money and provisions, from the day he 
is born; and is entered on the list of prisoners. 

This second class does not exist in the eyes 
of the French government; their allowance 
differing in no respect from that of the third, 
and most numerous class; namely, that of the 
sailors and soldiers. At this time the number 
of officers was about 180. Under-tonnage 
people, 44. Sailors, 500. Soldiers, 150. 
Women, 6. Children, 4. All, excepting those 
who have their wives with them, are mustered 
every morning, noon, and evening, by the 
gensd’armes, who have three prisoners to assist 
them in calling over the names, &c. for which 
they receive salaries, and have a few 7 privileges. 

2 6th Septeinber . Three of our crew, and 


I 


88 


four others of the party we arrived with, having* 
entered for French privateers, an agent arrived, 
and got permission to take them with him. 

Captain Connolly had been applying the last 
two days to the muster master, to allow me to 
remove into the officers’ buildings; but notwith¬ 
standing his repeated promises, he still de¬ 
layed it. Being quite disgusted with the room 
to which I then belonged, than which few 
could be worse, from the constant noise of six 
or eight boys, who played regularly at cards and 
tossing up, until day-light, with parties from 
the other rooms;—we went to the Commandant, 
who said he was very sorry it did not rest 
with him, to let me have the 29 livres, and 
he advised me to petition the commissary of war 
for them; he told Captain Connolly to transfer 
me to his room, if it was not already full; add¬ 
ing, that if he could render us any other service, 
we were to let him know, and he would do it 
with pleasure. His secretary told Captain C. 
that a trunk had arrived from Dieppe for him, 
which from its weight appeared to have but lit¬ 
tle in it; and he said, it would be best to look if 
it was worth paying the carriage of it. On open¬ 
ing the trunk, we found that, with all the contents, 
it belonged to me : there were eight or nine shirts, 
and other things in proportion ; all in very good 


\ 


89 

order, not having* been tumbled about in the 
least: thus I t who had left the ship a month 
ago, with no other than the clothes I stood 
in, was now in possession of as many as would 
last me at least two or three years: and 
although it was on my account, that the Captain 
of the privateer had said none of us should have 
our clothes ; he and his owners, in direct oppo¬ 
sition to his intention, returned to me the greater 
part of mine: while no one else, excepting the 
Captain, ever saw again any thing which they 
had left on board : the greater part had, how¬ 
ever, taken care to bring with them a bag, con¬ 
taining the best of their wardrobe. There was 
scarcely one of the prisoners who had so much 
baggage, at present, as myself; and 1 heard some 
of them say, as they looked at it significantly, 
they did not know how it was, but some people 
take care not to lose much when they are taken. 

In the afternoon 1 removed into No. 7, officers’ 
buildings; it was inhabited by twelve north 
country captains, besides Captain C. and 
myself, who made up the complement of fourteen. 
They were very sociable, quiet men, and we 
used to spend the evenings very pleasantly 
together; one person reading, or telling a story, 
for the amusement of the whole; and the others 
playing at cards, draughts, &c. until about ten 


r 


90 


o’clock. Each room is divided into three parts; 
the largest of which, serves for parlour and 
kitchen, and has four beds in it: joining to this, 
is a smaller part which contains two beds; the 
other is entered by a separate door, and contains 
only one bed. The apartments are all very 
airy and lofty; the windows are large, without 
bars, or any other fastening which the idea of 
a prison makes a necessary appendage. Captain 
Connolly, used to mess at a cantine: 1 paid 8 
livres a month, besides my rations, to mess at 
Captain Sever’s. The other twelve lived in 
the room together. 

28 th September. Captain Howker, and the 
other two who came with us from Arras, on 
their way to Bitche, were sent forward on their 
journey, and joined by the doctor of a ship, 
a native of Jersey, whose chief crime, it is 
supposed, was, furnishing some midshipmen 
with a bottle of aquafortis, for softening the 
iron bars they might chance to meet with, 
in their journey to Bitche; it was discovered 
in the collar of one of their coats: on beino* 
brought before the Commandant, the doctor is 
said to have tasted it, to make him suppose it 
was only a medicine. 

* 

Saturday , 30 th September. The party of 


91 


deserters we had left at Douai, arrived, and 
were put into a jail at the side of the citadel 
gate. I used sometimes to go and talk with them, 
when the sentry was not at hand, although it 
was against the rules, which it was my intention 
to conform to, as much as possible. After they 
had been confined there a month, in which 
time several had gone to the hospital, the 
Commandant forgave them, instead of sending 
them to Bitehe, which had hitherto been the 
punishment for the slightest offence. A few 
days before our arrival, he had forgiven about 
50 deserters, after a very few weeks confine¬ 
ment; one half of whom, had been detected 
in the act of escaping from the citadel; 
fifteen others had got about eight leagues from 
Cambrai, when they were apprehended: they 
were conducted by two midshipmen, whose 

names were Atkinson, and-. The former, 

and 1, by messing in the same house, soon 
became very intimate; he was about seventeen, 
and had been prisoner a year; in which time he 
had made several attempts to get away : he had 
been taken by some gun-boats, having followed 
a small vessel too far in shore, with his boat. 
Another midshipman and boat’s crew of the 
same ship, were here, who had been taken in 
like manner. We frequently amused ourselves 
whole hours together, in forming plans for 



92 


\ 


deserting: our favourite one was, in case we 
should be together, at the end of the next 
summer, when the corn would be high enough 
to hide us; that he and I, with two of the 
best of the shipmates of each, making a party 
of six, should provide for each person, a cutlass, 
or as good a substitute as possible; a blue 
smock frock, and a brace of pistols: heand I, 
as leaders, were each to be furnished with a 
compass, a map on a large scale, a tinder 
box, and a dark lanthorn, in order to be able 
to look at the map in a dark night; a bladder 
to hold water in, and another to secure half a 
loaf of bread, for each person, from the wet. 
On starting we were to make a promise at the 
tree of liberty, which still stands in the citadel, 
of remaining together, and making a common 
stock of the last farthing; and when once afloat, 
we were to swear by the main thwart, that we 
would live free, or die. When clear of the 
citadel, our course was to be directed towards 
the river Somme; travelling by night, and 
hiding ourselves by day: in case of being dis¬ 
covered, we were to make prisoners of those 
who saw us; and if attacked, were to consider 
ourselves as Englishmen, not as deserters; and 
conduct ourselves accordingly. Being arrived 
on the banks of the Somme, below Abbeville, 
we were to take a small boat, and proceed 


93 


down the river, then to take a large fishino* boat, 
minding* the time of tide; in her, we were to 
proceed to sea, carrying the smaller boat with 
us, in case of getting aground; when fairly 
out, we were to run down to Tresport, half 
way to Dieppe, and to board any lugger we 
might find there, and carry her into the Downs, 
with the crew battened down below: in case 
of not finding a lugger at Tresport, we were to 
proceed towards Dieppe, where some are con¬ 
tinually lying. Daring as the plan may appear, 

I should have had verv little doubt of the success 

% 

of the latter part; for I think six armed men, 
animated with the near prospect of liberty, are 
at any time match sufficient for forty or fifty 
privateersmen, when lying under their own 
batteries in security. 

October. The Commandant informed the 
prisoners, that he had received letters from 
Paris, authorizing him to permit those persons 
he could trust, to have the same liberty of living 
in town, which they had enjoyed before the 
attack on Flushing ; as since that event, every 
person had been confined to the citadel. In 
the course of two or three days, about 100 
officers had got tickets, allowing them to live 
entirely in town, and about 300 other prisoners 
were allowed to work in town, but all hands were 
obliged to attend the musters. Everv one who had 


belonged to the room 1 lived in, having taken 
their departure, I went to live in No. 16, 
which had been granted to a Captain Lyle for 
himself, and such of his friends as he chose; 
we were only seven in number, so that each 
had a bed to himself, which was an indulgence 
enjoyed by none of the other prisoners. 

Captain Connolly having heard of an old ac¬ 
quaintance being at Arras, got permission to 
go there for three days with Captain Lyle, 

who introduced him whilst there, to an old lady, 

« 

who having lost her friends during the Revo¬ 
lution, professed herself an enemy to the present 
government, and offered to procure four pass¬ 
ports at ten louisd’ors each, from a relation of 
hers, who was mayor of a small town, and 
who had furnished her with ten for some pri¬ 
soners, who had left Arras about three months 
before, and got safe over. The proposal was 
agreed to, and arrangements were made for for¬ 
warding them to Cambrai. When they returned 
from Arras, Captain C. took a lodging in 
town, and was always upon the look out with 
a Captain Marrin, who had been two or three 
years a prisoner, and spoke French very well, 
to procure a guide, and conduct us to the 
sea side; several offers were made, and they 
at length agreed with a man, who was to have 
ten iouis advanced him, and then to set out for 


95 


Boulogne, to provide a place there for us, and 
to fix houses on the road, at which we should 
be able to stop with safety. After having been 
away about a fortnight, he wrote up that he 
had set up a painter’s shop, and was ready to 
commence business, but on account of the very 
great expence attending an undertaking of this 
kind, it would be necessary to make a further 
advance of five louis; this convinced us of his 
roguery, which we had before suspected; nothing 
more therefore was sent him, and he never made 
his appearance again. They continued their 
search after another guide, and several offered, but 
they all insisted on a considerable advance of 
money before hand. Many of these people had 
been employed in conveying priests out of the 
country during the Revolution. After several 
unsuccessful plans had been formed, I grew 
tired of waiting for guides, and agreed to desert 
with Capeland, who had been at liberty in the 
citadel for some time; we had frequently talked 
over, and discussed every plan we could think 
of; that w hich we intended to pursue, was to 
set out for Rotterdam, at which place he had 
been twice, and knew two houses which were 
kept by Englishmen: after getting clear of 
Cambrai, we were to go inland, until we arrived 
on the banks of the Meuse, as there would 
probably be much less suspicion in that di¬ 
rection, than nearer the sea coast: we then in- 




96 

tended to procure skaits, and proceed on the 
ice as far as we should find practicable. Captain 
Connolly having 1 given me his ticket, by which 
I was able to go in and out of the citadel at 
pleasure, I was to get a map, and pocket 
compass as soon as possible, i procured an ex¬ 
cellent map on a large scale, but was not 
able to find a compass in the whole town, 
although I tried every shop where there was 
the smallest probability of meeting with one. 

October , 25th . All who belonged to the room 
I lived in, being about to remove into the 
town, I had to shift my quarters again, when 
Captain Lyle got an order from the Command¬ 
ant, for me to have one of the back rooms to 
myself. I was now as comfortably situated as 
it was possible for a prisoner to desire ; having 
a clean airy room, with a good bed, and an al¬ 
lowance equal to my wants; also a free passage 
to and from the town as often as I chose. I 
was, however, far from being comfortable, 
having neither employment nor amusement, nor 
was I able to think five minutes of any thing, 
except escaping; in talking and thinking of 
which, 1 usually spent the' whole day, I en¬ 
deavoured to inform myself of all the different 
methods which had been used to escape, and 
of the causes of their failure; they were as 


9? 


various as it is possible to conceive. Once the 
Lieutenant of a inan of war, escaped by chang¬ 
ing- dress with a young woman, who was being 
sent away with the other women; another time 
a prisoner dressed as a gend'armes, w r ith two 
others in the character of conscripts, joined in 
the masquerade of Lent, and continued the 
masque until they were in safety. A Lieu¬ 
tenant of a Spanish privateer, having obtained 
permission to go out of the citadel of Arras, 
to his banker’s, under charge of a gend’arme, 
received his money and went to a tavern, where 
the gend’arme having got drunk, the Spaniard 
mounted his horse and rode off. Too great 
a degree of rashness, without the necessary 
presence of mind and resolution, had been the 
cause of the failure of many attempts. 

Capeland and I used often to travel over our 
intended route with the map before us, so 
that we knew not only the names of all the 
places near which we intended to pass, but 
also their bearings from each other. In the 
beginning of November, we waited only until 
lie received some money, which had been due 
two or three months from a prisoner at Aux* 
©line, who acted as banker. 

28 th November . The officers received notice 

H 


98 


to keep themselves in readiness to march at 
a day’s notice to Auxonne, at the distance of 
300 miles inland, and in order to make the 
time they had to remain, more agreeable, by 
giving them a better opportunity of preparing 
for their march, and settling their accounts, 
all officers were allowed to go in and out of 
the citadel at pleasure, between the morning 
and evening musters. As it was the end of the 
month, the funds were very low with those 
who lived up to their income, and therefore, 
the musters were attended regularly, and every 
thing went on with regularity. 

Captain Connolly was now endeavouring to 
get permission to proceed with Captains Marrin 
and Ferrin, in a post chaise without a guard, 
intending to go to Paris, which was not far out 
of the road to Auxonne ; and from thence to get 
coin eyed to the sea coast: they were each pro¬ 
vided with passports, which he shewed me. In 
the marginal description, which was very exact; 
his person was described quite different, from 
what he actually was ; a profile of the Em¬ 
peror, and the words ‘ a l’interieur,’ were made 
in the water mark of the paper, to prevent 
forgeries. Finding, however, that he would 
not be allowed to go in a separate party, he 

very gladly accepted an offer made him, by a 

•StoJ 


99 


Captain Curren to join him, as he had a guide 
engaged, and all the necessary arrangements 
settled, for setting out very soon. 

December 3rd . The officers received their 
month’s pay, and being on the eve of leaving 
the town, the creditors of those few, who were 
in debt, became rather pressing: two or three 
unfortunate fellows had to pay all away, with 
the prospect of seventeen days march before 
them ; for the greater part of which time, they 
would be obliged to live at the expence of 
their companions. When Captain Connolly 
had received his pay, I walked out of the 
citadel with him, and as he had previously told 
me, it was most probable he should be off that 
evening, we wished each other a speedy pas¬ 
sage across. I did not feel the least wish to 
be of the party, which it was impossible for 
me to have been, as the guide refused taking 
more than two; I thought the plan I was en¬ 
gaged in with Capeland, preferable; although 
exposed to more hardships: the simpleness ot 
it, (ourselves being the only actors) insured 
us from many accidents, to which the others 
were unavoidably exposed by the number of 
persons whose assistance would be necessary; 
treachery, or even inattention, in any of whom, 

would be sufficient to derange their plain 

L.of C. - H 2 


100 

Capeland had not yet received his money, but 
he daily expected it, and we waited for nothing 
else. 

December 4th. As I was going out of the 
citadel this morning, I was met by an Italian 
Captain, with whom, and two or three others. 
Captain Connolly had lived ; he stopped, and 
asked me very hastily, where is Captain Con¬ 
nolly? To which I replied, how should I 
know ? After lamenting in a few words, that 
for one or two deserting, all the others would 
be punished, he concluded with abusing him, 
whom he had been accustomed to follow about 
the town, like a puppy dog, and said that lie 
had deserted with Captain Curren.—I laughed 
at him, and said, if that’s all, I am very glad 
to hear it. Every one 5 met, had something to 
say about it, and most of them were surprised that 
was not off too, but supposed it would be my 
turn in a day or two. Although they expected 
to have been recalled to the citadel, on ac¬ 
count of it, all wished them success, excepting* 
one or two supercargoes and outlandish men, who 
joined with the Italian, in desiring to see them 
speedily brought back. 

For some time, various reports were flying* 
all out, concerning the deserters being retaken. 


101 


but without foundation. I was much surprised 
at not hearing' from them, as they were to 
have written to me on embarking*. I however 
concluded that they were safe, as I knew, in 
case of being retaken, they would have written 
concerning their clothes. 

December 8th . About 40 officers set out. for 
Auxonne, and parties of about t he same number, 
continued to set out every other morning* under 
a guard, until the whole had left us. 

December 1 Mh. Four sailors deserted, and as 
I knew them to be townsmen of Captain Fer- 
rin, to whom I had lent my map a few 
days before, 1 had great fears for its safety, 
well knowing that the laws of honour in 
a French prison, do not prevent the obtaining 
of instruments for escaping by any means, 
even that of deceiving a friend. My fears, how¬ 
ever, were without foundation, for the next day 
he returned it to me, offering at the same 
time, to buy it of me, at any price 1 would 
fix. I told him it was quite impossible for me 
to part with it, but promised to endeavour to 
procure another of the same kind, if it could 
be met with in the town. The next day I 
went to the municipality, or town hall, at a 
stall in which I had bought my map; but 


102 


found the man had removed to another town. 
I went to every shop where I supposed it 
was probable to meet with maps, and examined 
them at those shops where they shewed me 
any, but at many they denied having* maps; 
although I knew to the contrary. In one shop 
I went into, there was a farmer, as I supposed, 
by his blue smock frock: not paying any 
attention to him, I asked if they had any maps 
of Flanders and Holland: the words had scarcely 
passed my lips, when I discovered by his sword, 
which he wore under the frock, that he was 
a garde champ&tre: I was very glad when they 
said they had none, and walked away, but 
not without some suspicion that he would follow 
me into the citadel, and report what I had 
done. I was at length obliged to give up my 
search without finding one, 

December 16 th. The party who were to 
march this day, were delayed some time, wait¬ 
ing for Captains Marrin and Ferrin ; a gen¬ 
darmes was sent to their lodging, who brought 
word back, that they had not been there all 
night: this was rather unpleasant intelligence 
for a boot maker, who had delivered a new 
pair of boots the evening before, as well as for 
a taylor, who had furnished a riding habit for 
a French girl, who accompanied them, and was 


103 


appointed to meet Captain Mavrin at the citadel 
in the morning- for payment. The party were 
sent forward, and letters containing a descrip¬ 
tion of the deserters, sent to twenty or thirty 
of the principal stations of gensd’armes, in 
every part of the Empire, from whence copies 
would be sent to all the subordinate stations, 
which is always done when any desertion takes 
place. 

December 22nd . Our Commandant, Monsr. 
D’Helmont, member of the Legion of Honour, 
and Chef d’Escadre, having been ordered to join 
the army of Spain, left us. Nothing could 
have given us more sorrow : we would rather 
have had to march farther inland under his 
command, bad as the weather then was, than 
remain at Cambrai under any other person; 
although I believe the accommodations here, 
are preferable to any depot in France. Fie 
willingly indulged the prisoners under his com¬ 
mand, with as much liberty as it was in his power 
to grant, but the smallest deviation from their 
duty, was certain of punishment, without favour 
to any. It was his treatment of deserters, I be¬ 
lieve, which gained him our love: after keep¬ 
ing them in a cachot for a month or six weeks, 
they were usually forgiven, instead of being sent 
to Bitche, which was the practice of all other 


!01 


Coiiiniahdants. As he knew almost ever y pri¬ 
soner under bis charge, if any who had ever 
offended,applied for any indulgence, they received 
a lecture, and generally a refusal. He never made 
any deductions from our pay, although most 
of the others detained one or two sols out ot 
the fifteen. His successor bore the same rank 
in the army, and although it was said, he was 
a royalist, was much disliked, on account of 
several alterations which he made, and of 
clipping our pay. After having' commanded ns 
about a month, he was superseded by another 
Chef d’Escadre, who was liked rather better than 
his predecessor, but was far from being po¬ 
pular, as he u ed to clip our pay, and dine 
with an old Lieutenant, who had the serving 
out of coals: being* very fearful about our de¬ 
serting, he put extra fastenings on all the doors, 
and made us pay for them. He was to be 
met with at certain hours in his office, which 
was the only time for doing business: DTIclmont 
had made the citadel his home, and was always 
accessible. Few transactions passed in any part 
of the yard, without being seen by him from his 
windows, the knowledge of which was a great 
restraint on the gensd'armes, most of whom are 
not a little addicted to tyranny. 

Christmas, as usual, was attended with feast- 



105 


ing, the expences of which, had been provided 
for, by each person putting four or five sols 
per week into the mess bag. It was nearly 
the dullest time which I had passed in the 
prison ; all the officers having left, there were 
only four of us to inhabit a large range of 
buildings, in which we appeared to be quite 
lost. Three mates, and about thirty men arrived 
at this time from Brest: they had been nearly 
two months on the journey, during which time 
they had been very badly treated, receiving 
no other part of their allowance, than bread and 
water; the prisons they had been lodged in, 
were usually very damp. The mates came to 
live with us, but were not allowed any bedding; 
we let them have what we could spare, which 
made them comfortable beds, compared with 
what they had been used to. Before they had 
been a week with us, all three were in the hos¬ 
pital together, with the greater part of their 
crews; this had been the case with most of the 
parties who arrived after the cold weather set 
in; few, however, lost their lives, a fever and 
ague was the most common complaint. After 
having been in the hospital about a fortnight, 
Mr. Brown, the stoutest of the three, returned 
to the citadel to join some other officers, who 
had lately arrived from Calais, on their way 
to Auxotine. He shewed me an American pro- 


4 


106 


lection, which had been given to him : as it did 
not answer his description, but agreed pretty 
well with mine, particularly as to age and 
height, 1 bought it of him for some old clothes. 
The protection mentioned a scar on the breast: 
this I had not, but frequently intended to make 
one ; however, not being very fond of enduring 
unnecessary pain, I determined to take my 
ohance without it. Another mate soon after 
arrived, who had his protection in duplicate : 
it answered the description of Capeland, who 
had first told me of the great use, such docu¬ 
ments would be in Holland, and set me on the 
look out for them. We bought one copy for 
two crowns: it mentioned a scar over the eye, 
another on the leg, and one on the arm ; amongst 
the numerous scars with which Copeland was 
adorned, were three which would have answered, 
had they been on the opposite side; the paper 
being too thin to admit of any erasement, we 
were obliged to trust it as it was. 

An order being issued for officers’ buildings 
to be shut up, the four of us who had been 
living there, removed to a small room at No. 4, 
Cantine buildings, where with Capeland, and 
two or three others of the undertonnage people, 
we formed a very agreeable mess, and were 
not crowded, as the other rooms of the same 


107 


stae were obliged to receive twelve persons. 
Not being allowed any other bedding than a 
straw mattrass and a blanket between two 
persons, several of ns hired from the store¬ 
keeper, at three livres per month, those beds 
which Monsr. D’Helmont had allowed us. 

18J0. January , Several passengers who had 

not been sent to Auxonne with the Captains 

* 

and mates, were now ordered away ; amongst 
the number was one Nesbitt, in whose favour 
I had drawn a bill for ten pounds, in the 
month of September. Double the time which 
he fixed for receiving an answer was elapsed, 
without his acknowledging to have received 
any accounts from his correspondents, and al¬ 
though he promised to pay me the amount on 
demand, I could obtain only three louis, and 
that with a great deal of trouble: to many 
others he advanced only as many crowns, which 
is all they are ever likely to receive for their 
bills. This species of swindling is carried on 
amongst the prisoners to an enormous extent, 
and it is a great pity, that the Committee of 
the Patriotic Fund has not been at the trouble 
of pointing out some channel, by which bills 
could be negociated with honesty. 

Being disappointed of getting money from 


/ 


108 

Nesbitt, which he used to tell me I could have, 
on calling for; I had recourse to a bill Captain 
Connolly gave me for 120 livres (£6.) which he 
had lent to Captain Lyle, who, when I shewed 
it to him, before he set out for Auxonne, not 
only acknowledged the debt, but said that it I 
should be in want of money to help me away, he 
would cash my bill for £20. I did not then 
want the 120 livres, as I expected to have 
about ten pounds without it, which we supposed 
would be quite enough for any expense which 
could possibly occur on our journey, but in¬ 
tended to leave it with him, as a body of re¬ 
serve, to support us in case of being unsuccessful, 
and serve as a foundation for future attempts. 
I wrote to Captain Lyle, and requested him 
to remit the amount by the first opportunity, 
but received no answer. 

Money falling shorter than we had expected, 
we were induced to admit a third person into the 
party ; he was a young man, a native of Guernsey, 
who did not appear to be able to endure much 
fatigue, but like Capeland, be spoke French 
more fluently than English, and moreover had 
£20, which, circumstanced as we then were, 
outweighed all other considerations. 

20ih January. After having received several 
letters, and waited about six months, Cape- 


109 


land received about two guineas and a half, 
in payment of a seven pound bill of exchange, 
which had been drawn nearly a year. Every 
day now appeared to be an age, and I was very 
anxious to be off before the frost should break 
up Our money being* all in silver, 1 had 
to get it changed into louis, for the more easy 
conveyance : for this purpose, Capeland and I 
went at different times together to several of 
the Cantines, asking if they had any louis, but 
they asked too high a price: at length a person 
who carried on banking, having arrived from 
Arras with a considerable number, made the ex¬ 
change we were in want of. The cash we were 
now in possession of, as near as I can remember, 
w as, Capeland three louis, myself four louis and 
two guineas, our companion eighteen louis, 
fifty English shillings, and a gold watch, which 
was to be sold, if occasion required it. On 
leaving Cambrai, we were to receive equal 
shares of the whole stock, lest we should be 
accidentally separated from each other, and 
were to make fresh divisions, as often as ne¬ 
cessary, whilst w 7 e should have any thing left. 
On arriving in England, we were to repay 
what we W ere indebted to each other. The main¬ 
spring of a watch having been given to Cape¬ 
land, I carried it to a w r atch maker, who I 

» 

thought had the appearance of an honest man, 


HO 


to be made into a saw for cutting iron; he 
not only immediately consented to make it, 
but shewed me a dozen or two of his own, 
which he said would answer better than the 
one 1 had, being stronger: but in this he was 
mistaken, as their strength would prevent their 
being' coiled up, and covered like a button, 
which the other from its pliability admitted of, 
and in that shape, was intended to be secured 
to our clothes. I told him to have it ready 
the next day, but did not call until a week 
afterwards, and even then, reconnoitred the shop 
to make sure that there was no treason, I ex¬ 
pected to have been charged a couple of crowns, 

instead of which I had only to pay four-pence. 

/ 

25th January. At muster, the gensd’armes 
told Capeland that when it came to his turn 
to apply for the room ticket, he might save 
himself the trouble, as he would not be al¬ 
lowed to stir out of the citadel: this was a 
great disappointment, as he was only beginning 
now to get a little liberty, and it was likely 
to increase greatly the difficulty of getting 
clear of Cambrai. I immediately concluded that 
this restriction was laid on him for having en¬ 
quired about the citadel for louis; but he 
suspected that one of our room mates, who was 
then endeavouring to get permission to spent! 



Ill 


a few days at Arras, had taken advantage of 
his being a suspected person, and to shew his 
own fidelity, had informed on suspicion that he 
was about to desert again. He told the person 
lie suspected, what he thought, and desired him 
to prove his innocence, which was of course 
an impossibility. After dinner Capeland went 
to a canteen, where several gensd’armes were 
sitting, saying he was determined to find the 
bottom of it: he remained with them until it 
was very late, and returned early the next day. 
After passing three days in treating them, he 
acknowledged to the person he had accused, 
that he had found him to be innocent. 

29th January. When the hawker paid us his 
daily visit, besides the old clothes and books 
with wdiich he was usually stocked, he offered 
a brass pocket compass for sale, which be¬ 
longed to a man who had entered for a pri¬ 
vateer. This was the first time I had seen any 
thing of the kind in the place; but notwith¬ 
standing the great desire we had to obtain it, 
we dared scarcely look at it for fear of some of 
our messmates suspecting us. I went out of 
the room, and waited on the stairs until the 
broker came out, when I gave him a crown, 
which was the price he asked, with a present 
to engag'e him not to say to whom he sold 


112 


it. I then took my morning’ walk for an hour 
or two in the yard. The first time we found 
ourselves alone in the room, we feasted our 
eyes with a sight of it, than which few things 
in our situation could please us better. 

February 2nd , Friday. I told Capeland we 
must do something, as the frost would soon 
be over, and the only difficulty I could see, 
was how to get clear of the citadel. The 
methods I proposed, were, either to escape 
over the ramparts by a rope, which I knew 
I could get brought in by different persons 
in the course of a day; or else to arm our¬ 
selves with large sticks, and go about nine 
o’clock to the citadel gate, which we were to 
open and pass, if the sentry was off his post; 
but if be was there, wait until the gate was 
opened for some person to pass, and then rush 
through: he approved of neither, but said it 
would be as well to see how the exchange of 
prisoners, which was then much spoken of, 
turned out; until now, he, as well as myself, 
had disregarded these flying reports so much, 
that our messmates were frequently angry with 
us, and used to say it would be a pity if we 
ever got away, as we appeared to like the place 
so well. 

4 ;, 

During the last few days, l had been reading 


/ i 


113 


ilits adventures of Baron Trenck, whose in¬ 
defatigable endeavours toregain his liberty, made 
me completely ashamed of having been upwards 
of four months in Cambrai, obliged to attend 
three times a day to be mustered like a galley 
slave, without once attempting to regain my 
freedom. About the same time Capeland lent 
me a journal, which had been kept by one of 
the party he deserted with in the summer; 
the recital of the sufferings they endured, made 
me shudder, but at the same time urged me 
on to make an attempt, before I should be 
too much overcome by these tales of woe, and 
the plausible hopes of a speedy exchange. 

Saturday , 3rd February. After all my room 
mates went to bed, I remained up, sewing a 
couple of buttons on my drawers, each of 
which instead of a mould contained a guinea, 
and fastening into my hat a false crown of 
pasteboard, which had two louis in it, besides 
making several other trifling preparations for 
a journey. 

Sunday , 4 th February. I did not get up until 
between ten and eleven o’clock, as I had been 
watching for an opportunity, when no person 
would be in the room, to put on two shirts; but 
was not able to meet with it. Just before noon, 

i 


/ 


114 


I went to the Commandant, and asked per¬ 
mission to go into town : it was granted, and to a 
roommate at the same time. Immediately after 
we had been mustered, I returned to my room, 
hoping now to get an opportunity of slipping 
on a second shirt, before any one came in. 

1/ 

was two or three minutes with my coat and 
waistcoat off, and a shirt lying on my bed, into 
which I had popt my head several times, and 
as often withdrawn it; being frightened by the 
noise of some one or other coming up the stairs, 
to the adjoining rooms. Capeland was the first 
who came in; I asked him to watch at the 
door, but the hoy coming in immediately, and 
being followed by all our messmates, as it Mas 
dinner time, I was quite disappointed, and 
shoved the shirt under the bed clothes, as my 
pockets were nearly full enough. On taking- 
out my money, and delivering the remainder of 
what had been in my charge, with the key of 
my chest, to Capeland; lie asked <£ are you 
off?” I replied, yes. He theu said “ you will 
of course want the map and compass.” I said 
that I should. lie wished me success, which 
M ere the last words which passed between us, 
as the others M ere waiting for us at the table. I 
wished to have eaten heartily, but could scarcely 
swallow a mouthful; Capeland seemed to he 
as little inclined to eat. We endeavoured to 


i 


i 15 


appear as at other times, but for my part, I 
never remember to have felt so agitated. Sup¬ 
posing- that every one was acquainted with the 
true cause of my movements, 1 was happy to be 
hurried away by Hayman, who was impatient 
to get into town; and when we had got there, 
he knew as little how to kill time as I did. We 
called at a banker’s, to enquire concerning some 
bills; then walked on the ramparts; from 
thence, to a coffee house; where, having read 
the papers over and over again, we commenced 
billiards, although it was Sunday : after two or 
three games I was tired, and left him; hoping 
that by the time I had got some things I was 
in want of, it would be four o’clock. Having 
carried the other half of the watch-spring to 
be made into another saw, I bought a large 
bladder to put my map into, in case of rainy 
weather: also about a pound and a half of ham, 
and a pocket knife: my pockets were too full 
to take any bread. I got a louis changed into 
silver money, and besides it, had with me one 
louis, besides the other two, and two guineas, 
which were concealed. It was only two o'clock* 
and I could find nothing more to do. I walked up 
one street, and down another, and thought that 
every person who looked at me, knew I was 
about to desert. I came to a church, and went 
into it for a few minutes; then returned to the 

x 2 ' 


116 


market place, where i met with a person ot the 
name of Welch, who lived in the same room, 
with myself; 1 asked him to walk, which he con¬ 
sented to do, after carrying’ some things he had 
with him, into the citadel. 1 walked with him 
to the gate, and waited his return with im¬ 
patience; remembering’, that if i again passed 
through tiie avenue of shady trees, which I 
was then pacing with so much uneasiness, it 
would be, most likely, worn out with hardships 
and fatigue, and chained to some miserable con¬ 
script or deserter; which, very possibly, might 
be the case in a few davs. 

in about a quarter of an hour, Welch returned 
with a companion : after passing some time in 
calling at two or three houses where they were 
acquainted, we walked round the greater part 
of the town. I endeavoured to persuade them 
to try to pass the gates, in order to have a walk 
in the country, but to no purpose. lieturning 
through the market place, we met some others 
of the prisoners, with whom my companions 
were acquainted; as they stopped talking to 
each other before the Municipality, the town 
clock struck four. The sound of the hammer, 
whilst knocking off the irons of a pardoned felon, 
could scarcely have been more agreeable to his 
ears, than this was to me. Not having joined 


117 


in their conversation, I turned carelessly away, 
and sauntered towards the citadel. After I had 
gone about fifty yards from them, Welch called 
after me, and asked if I was going* into the 
citadel already: I made no answer, but con¬ 
tinued in the direction towards it: but when 1 
was out of their sight, I turned down a street 
which led to the Paris gate; through which I 
passed without being remarked among the 
people who were passing and repassing, 
although there were several custom and police 
officers, besides two sentries, on the watch for 
passengers and goods. In case of being stopped, 
it was my intention to have told them 1 was 
going to a dance, in the neighbouring village, 
and to request them to allow me to proceed, 
which I knew they would not do. Being now 
without the walls of Cambrai, I was desirous 
that it would become dark, as I intended until 
then to keep close to the town. The Paris gate 
by which I made my sortie, was in an opposite 
direction to the road I had to go, which ran 
out from the Valenciennes gate. I purposely 
came out this way, that 1 might be able to 
sculk until it was dark, in going from one to 
the other, so that in case of being seen by any 
one who would trouble himself about me, I 
might be able to say I was on my return into 
town, by the Valenciennes gate, from a walk 


118 


in the country. I soon found the road uncom¬ 
monly bad ; it being a stiff clay, partly thawed. 
After having been out about half an hour, in 
which time I made very little progress, I 
began to consider if it would not be better to 
return and wait until the roads would be in a 
better condition for a pedestrian excursion: 
my chief objection to returning, was, the ap¬ 
pearance of indecision such an action would 
carry with it; but as Capeland was the only 
person who had the slightest suspicion of my 
intention to be off, I got over that scruple, by 
determining to be away the next Sunday, if 
possible, whether the weather was better or 
worse; and I accordingly resolved on returning 
into the citadel, if I could get there by muster 
time. 1 kept on towards the Valenciennes 
gate, which I supposed to be nearer than that 
of Paris; after a great deal of trouble, being 
arrived within half a furlong of it, and close 
to the back of the citadel, I heard the muster 
bell ring. This certainly disappointed, but at 
the same time animated me; fori well knew 
if I was only a few minutes after the muster, 
which I had hitherto regularly attended, it was 
most likely I should be imprisoned about ten 
days in a cachot; rather than suffer which 
punishment 1 had always been determined to 
desert, although I might be quite unprepared. 


/ 


119 


I set out with fresh resolution, knowing’ that 
my safety depended in a great measure on the 
distance 1 should be from Cambrai in the 
morning. There was a very thick fog, which 
increased so much, that 1 could not perceive a 
tree at the distance of a dozen yards. After 
having proceeded about a furlong, through 
glitters, ditches, bad roads, banks, &c. towards 
the high road to le Quesnoy, which I had fre¬ 
quently reconnoitred from the ramparts of 
Cambrai, and knew at once on arriving at it; 
I was surprised to find the road in as good 
order, and as dry as any 1 ever trod on; it 
being well paved, and very level, not thawed 
in the least degree. After taking the direction 
of it by compass to make sure that I was in 
the right road, 1 set forward with a heart as 
light as a feather, much rejoiced that I had 
been too late to return into the citadel. At first 
every footstep I heard, whether of man or horse, 
made me quit the road for the fields, where I 
laid down, or dodged behind the trees with which 
the road was lined on either side; but finding 
that I lost a great deal of time by doing this, 
and that very few persons passed, 1 determined to 
run the chance, and to keep the road. Every one 
I passed, wished me ‘ un bon soir,’ which com¬ 
pliment I of course returned. The fog was so 
very thick, that we could not distinguish what 


120 


sort of a being it was that passed, although our 
elbows touched. 

Having been walking at a very brisk rate, 
at ten o’clock I found myself at the entrance 
of le Quesnoy. I felt rather at a loss how to 
pass through this place, which I was obliged 
to do, on account of a small stream. As 1 
drew near the gate, 1 found there were a 
number of houses outside the walls, in the way 
to and from which, several old women were 
continually passing the gate, many of them 
with lamps in their hand, and to the continual 
challenge of c Qui vient ?’ from the sentries, 
one or more were always answering. 1 very 
quietly passed through, and although I had not 
the least idea of any of the streets, arrived 
in a few minutes at another gate, through which 
I passed with a party of live or six persons, 
who had just answered the challenge. Three 
roads now offering themselves, I took the left 
hand one at random, as I could not make 
use of my compass on account of persons oc¬ 
casionally passing : after going about a quarter 
of a mile, I found it became narrow and rugged, 
and on taking its bearings, found that it was 
not the right one. I spent some time in en¬ 
deavouring to regain the right road across the 
fields, but was at length obliged to return close 


\ 


121 

to the town, and take the middle road of the 
three, which was as good as that from Cambrai 
to le Quesnoy. 

5th February. I continued walking a& fast as 
I could until four o’clock, when I thought it 
was time to look out for a hiding place to 
remain in during the day. On examining a 
barn which stood in a farm-yard close to the 
road side, 1 found one corner of it had been 
broken down, and was only repaired with loose 
stones, some of which I removed and then crept 
in: on groping about, I found that the end 
at which I entered, was occupied by sheaves 
of corn ; in the middle a space was left clear 
for threshing, and at the other end the straw 
was piled up, in which I thought it best to hide, 
as there was more of it than of the corn. 
Having got to the top of it, I made a hole 
and put my hat in, and then worked myself 
in feet foremost until 1 was about two feet 
below the surface: then having pulled some 
over my face and hid my hands, 1 fell asleep 
without intending’ it, but was awaked about 
day-light, by the noise made by opening the 
door; two people entered, and after talking 
together some time, one w r ent away, and the 
other commenced threshing. As I could dis¬ 
tinctly hear every breath he drew, I Avas afraid 


i 


to breathe freely, much less to turn myself, 
although I felt quite cramped by not being 
able to move a single joint. In the coarse of 
the morning, I heard some children playing 
about the barn, but thinking myself out of 
their reach, it gave me no concern : however, 
one of them soon made shift to climb onto 
the pile in which 1 was hid, and called to the 
others to follow him; this put me in great 
consternation, as I thought my discovery 
inevitable; he crept about and at length got his 
knee directly over my face, and remained in 
that situation a minute or two, challenging 
the others to come up. Every instant I expected 
he would find that something under him 
was harder than the straw, and putting his 
hand down, discover me. Not being fol¬ 
lowed by any of his companions, he soon 
grew tired of his elevated situation, and con¬ 
descended to return to them, very much to my 
relief. Had I been discovered, it was my intention 
to give the man a crown, but if he made any 
difficulty in letting me pass into the road, to 
employ violence, for which cause I intended 
to have my knife ready; however, I was ex¬ 
tremely rejoiced at so very narrowly escaping 
discovery; for even had I got into the road 
without any alarm being given, I should 
have been so much afraid of every person, 


4 


12 $ 

that I might very possibly have rim into the 
way of danger, in too carefully endeavouring 
to avoid it. Every person having left the barn, 
1 was at liberty to turn myself, which I was 
very glad to do, and feeling the hands of 
my watch I found it was noon. I did not 
venture to uncover myself, but remained satisfied 
with the pleasure of breathing aloud, and the 
thought of being as yet undiscovered. The 
thresher soon returned to his work, and in 
the course of the afternoon the children came 
again to the barn. During their stay I did net 
consider myself very secure, but after amusing 
themselves some time, they went away without 
having molested me as they had done in the 
morning. When the man had left off work, 
ami every thing was quiet, I arose and pre¬ 
pared to continue my journey by cleaning my 
clothes as well as I was able. Being ready, 
I found that although it was only four o’clock, 
the fog was so thick, that I might proceed 
with safety. I heard some dogs about the yard, 
and the corner at which I entered, I found w as 
opposite the dwelling house; I was, therefore, 
rather puzzled about getting out; as I could not 
think of waiting until the people of the house 
went to bed, which would not be in less than 
six hours, I pushed down some of the stones 
which had been replaced in the course of the 


124 


day, and sliding myself out, made my way 
through a hedge to the high road, which was 
in as good condition for walking* as the night 
before, being extremely dry and level. Finding 
an unpleasant taste, I put my finger into my 
mouth, from whence it returned covered with a 
thin black skin ; and from my nose came a great 
many pieces of straw with a quantity of dust* 
which 1 had inhaled during the day. This 
night, as well as the preceding, I was very 
much annoyed by dogs, one or more of which 
belonged to every house; to defend myself from 
their attacks, I always carried in one hand a 
piece of ham, and in the other my knife: to a 
few I had to apply the former dose, but the 
latter to none. After walking' about a league 
and a half, i found myself close to the walls 
of the city of Mons, which is sixteen leagues 

4 

distant from Cambrai. I passed the outer gate, 
at which there was no sentry, and went close 
to the guard-house, where hearing them hail 
every one who approached, I was afraid to 
attempt to pass, and remained within hearing 
about a quarter of an hour, in which time 
five or six persons came either in or out, all 
of whom were hailed, and I believe examined. 
As it was necessary to cross the river on which 
Mons is situated, before I could get into the 
road to Namur, and as I had given up all 


125 


thoughts of going through the town, l returned 
about half a mile of my road to a cross road 
of which I had taken notice; it went to the 
Eastward, and I was in hopes that it would 
lead me to some bridge, by which I should 
be able to cross the river: having kept this 
road for a mile or two, close to a large body 
of water and ice occasioned by the river over¬ 
flowing the adjacent country, I came to a 
narrow tongue of land, which remained like 
a bank above the water; along' this I pro¬ 
ceeded, in hopes of soon arriving on higher 
land, instead of which I arrived at the end 
of it, and was obliged to return about half a 
mile to the main land; I then kept on an 
E. N. E. course, over fields, hedges, ditches, or 
highways, deviating only when I was obliged 
by water. This manner of travelling was very 
fatiguing, from the roughness of the ground 
and the quantity of clay which stuck to my 
shoes at every step. About ten o’clock T came 
to a cross road, running nearly in the direction 
I wished to go. As I walked along, thinking 
it was time to eat, although I did not feel 
hungry, 1 took a piece of ham, which was the 
only provision within my reach, but being very 
fat, it did not long remain on my stomach. 1 
considered that as my journey would not he 
at an end in less than a fortnight or three 


/ 


120 

weeks, it was of the fir.^t consequence not to 
take any liberties with iny constitution, which 
would be likely to affect my strength before 
my journey was ended; I therefore resolved 
to go into some lonely house for provisions in 
the course of the night. About midnight, having 
passed through a village, I came to two small 
cottages adjoining to each other; a light was 
burning in one, and listening at the door I 
heard the humming of the spinning wheel: this 
sign of industry encouraged me to rap at the 
door, and on being asked, what I wanted, I in¬ 
quired if they would give me a drink. The 
door being opened, I asked if they had any 
milk, and shewed some money, which I said 
1 would pay with; they had no milk, but on 
asking for water, they told me rather roughly 
to come in; this I had no wish to do, as there 
were two stout fellows and two women in the 
room ; but when they brought me a bason of 
water, I ventured in with fear and caution, and 
asked if they could let me have a slice of bread. 
X\ hi 1st one was cutting this, the others ques¬ 
tioned me concerning my country; I said l was 
an American : they then desired to know 7 where 
I was coming from, and to what place I was 
going; I knew the name of the village I had 
just passed through, where I told them I had 
been to a dance, and was now returning to 


/ 


127 


my uncle Monsr. - who lived at a house 

standing by itself three miles off. They refused 
to receive payment, but having given them three 
halfpence, 1 set off with the bread in my hand, 
which I soon made room for in my pockets, 
by throwing the ham away. 

6th February. I continued travelling all night 
keeping whichever road ran nearest to the di¬ 
rection in which 1 wished to go, until I came 
to a common or heath, in which small roads 
ran in every direction ; here I kept as near 
my course as the irregularities of the ground, 
and the windings and branches of a river, would 
admit of. At length getting so much entangled 
in the branches of the river, 1 was not only 
unable to proceed in the right direction, but 
was unable to regain the high road, which I 
wished very much to do before day-break, as 
where I then was, there w as not the least ap¬ 
pearance of any hiding place, and 1. supposed it to 
be so little frequented, that the appearance of 
a stranger wandering about, would not fail to 
excite suspicion. On coming to a mill on one 
of the streams, I found a foot path, which 
led me to a cross road, by which I soon ar¬ 
rived amongst farms and villages. I endeavoured 
to find my way into several of the barns, but with¬ 
out success; but on arriving at a large inclo^ 



128 


sure, which contained a farm-house, stables, &c., 
determined as the day was just breaking’, to 
remain here if possible: after walking round 
the inclosure, 1 entered it very cautiously, and 
was »creeping towards the barn which stood 
behind the house, when I perceived a light 
within; this made me stop: the door was opened, 
and a man came out hallooing to know who 
was there. I walked away pretty fast, the man 
followed ; being some distance before him, I 
went into a village which was close to us; 
finding by the sound of his footsteps, which 
from the frozen state of the ground and the 
stillness of every thing else, could be heard at 
a considerable distance, that he gained on me, 
I got through a hedge partly by jumping and 
partly by scrambling, and laid down in the 
corner nearest to him; on coming near, he 
stopped to listen as 1 suppose for the sound 
of my footstep, which not hearing, he looked 
into the fields where i lay, but could not see 
me: he then turned up by one side of the held, 
and by the sound of his feet appeared to me 
to return home. I passed through the village, 
and continued advancing on the road, looking 
about for a hiding place. About six o’clock I 
met a man in one of the villages 1 was passing 
through, and on enquiring what place it was, 
found it to be Fleurs $ I then enquired the 


129 




distance I was from Charleroi and Maubeu^e, 
but he did not know either : this made me 
suppose that either he knew very little of the 
neighbourhood, or else that I had been much 
deceived in my route during the night, from 
which I expected to find my seif in the vicinity 
of these places. Not being able to get any 
information from him, I continued to follow 
the advice of my faithful needle, which led 
me to leave the main road and cross some 
fields in search of another. At a short distance 
from the village, I had to cross a brook : here 
I washed, combed, and brushed my clothes, and 
in sOtlier respects put myself in as decent a con¬ 
dition as I could, expecting to be obliged to 
travel during the day. Having gone through 
the operation of dressing, I opened my map 
to see the exact situation in which I was. I 
found the village of Fleuri, and accordingly 
shaped my course. Having passed through two 
or three fields, 1 came to an old cottage without 
a roof, in which I thought for some minutes 
of hiding myself during the day, but was de¬ 
terred by discovering an inhabited cottage 
near it; into which I directly went, and found 
a little old man and his wife. I asked them 
to let me have a drink of milk ; they had none, 
but said I could perhaps get some at the next 
house, which until now I had not perceived, 


K 


130 


on account of the number of trees by which 
that and another were surrounded. He then 
enquired what countryman I was; to which I 
replied, an American, travelling from Amiens 
to Charleroi; and asked what distance I was from 
the latter place, and which was the road to it j 
he said I was eleven leagues off, and after 
going into the village I had just left, my road 
was to turn to the right. I thanked him, but 
trusting more to my map than to his information, 
continued my way through the fields, towards 
a large wood, through which I intended to 
pass. As 1 was sitting on a stile, both to rest 
myself and to admire the view, which was un¬ 
commonly fine, I observed the old man coming 
towards me with a large bundle on his back. 
I was glad to see him, and waited until he 
came up, when putting down three or four 
new guitars, he asked me in which direction 
America lay, whether it was towards Holland, 
Germany, or France, the respective situations 
of each of which he pointed out as he men¬ 
tioned them. I pointed to the West, and said 
it was at a very great distance. He kindly cau¬ 
tioned me of the danger of travelling in the 
French territory, if my passes were not very 
correct, and said it was a very bad place, for 
at every step you meet a gend’arme. I 
again enquired my road to Charleroi, which 




131 

lie pointed out to me, saying, this is Fleurs, not 
Fleuri. Having taken up his guitars, he pro¬ 
ceeded on his road, and after considering a few 
minutes what course to pursue, I determined 
to return to his house, and get something to 
eat, as I had finished my bread in the course 
of the night. On re-entering the house, the 
woman looked rather surprised at seeing me 
again; I said I had just left her husband, and 
would wait here until his return, as I was rather 
fatigued after my walk: to this she very will¬ 
ingly consented, and seating myself at the fire* 
with as much unconcern as if it had been my 
home, we began chatting together as well as 

we were able. Finding my left foot rather 

\ 

sore, I took off my shoes and stockings, and 
found the nail of my great toe, lifted about one 
eighth of an inch, and the toe itself much in- 
flamed: this was occasioned, by having on two 
pair of worsted stockings, with short shoes, 
which had not been off my feet during the last 
eight and forty hours; agreat part of which time, 
I had been walking as fast as I was able. I 
was much alarmed at this accident, as I could 
only expect that it would continue to grow 
worse until 1 should be able to keep it still. 
My hostess appeared to feel much for me; pro¬ 
vided me with warm water to wash my feet, 
and a piece of linen to wrap round my toe, the 

K 2 


132 


nail of which I cut quite short. We break¬ 
fasted together on soup, which, although meagre, 
I was glad to get. After sitting some time, 
the inhabitants of the two neighbouring cottages 
came in, and on seeing a stranger, enquired 
who I was: she told all she knew of me; after 
which, they asked me several questions. Finding 
they were asking things I scarcely knew in 
what manner to answer, I pretended to under¬ 
stand less and less of what they said. They in¬ 
quired if I hadany passport: on my saying I had 
not, they blamed the woman for admitting me, 
as it was most probable, they said, that I was a 

thief. Some proposed sending for Monsieur- 

whom I believed to be the village gend’arme; 
but on another’s saying he was gone to a neigh¬ 
bouring village, I thought that they agreed to 
watch that I did not go away, until his return, 
which was to be in the afternoon. I now con¬ 
sidered myself as a prisoner, but not without 
hopes; however, as it w^as, I would willingly 
have given two guineas to be allowed to pro¬ 
ceed, but was afraid to offer it, for fear of be¬ 
ing refused. I affected to be quite at my ease, 
and took a short walk opposite the house, to 
prevent my limbs from becoming stiff. They 
did not offer to stop me, but kept an eye 
towards me. In the course of the forenoon, I 
extended my. walk; but finding that when I 



133 


was at any distance from the house, they left 
off their work, and directed their attention to 
me, I still continued very uneasy, not at all 
liking- the thoughts of being arrested at so short 
a distance from Cambrai as I then was. 

About noon I joined the old lady in taking 
a luncheon of bread and butter ; having eaten as 
much as I wanted, and filled my pockets, I 
determined to set out if I was not forcibly de¬ 
tained. I asked what was to pay, but she re¬ 
fused to take any thing, saying she did not sell 
provisions, but would willingly supply me or 
any other traveller with a meal. I laid down 
a twelve sous piece, and asked her if it was 
sufficient; she said the whole loaf cost only five 
sous, and I had scarcely eaten a slice. After a 
good deal of persuasion, in which I acknow¬ 
ledged the obligation I considered myself under, 
tor her hospitality, in allowing a foreigner to 
enter the house, she consented to receive it as 
a present. I then said I supposed her neighbours 
did not want any thing further with me; she 
said, certainly not, it was none of their business 
where I went to. 

It was one o’clock when I left the house: 
according to the old man’s direction, I went 
into the village, but instead of turning to the 


134 


right, as he had directed me, went to the left, 
w hich agreed better with the direction of Char¬ 
leroi from the point on the map, where I sup¬ 
posed myself, as Fleurs was not marked in it. 
After h aving walked in this direction about six 
miles, as I was making a sweep round a village to 
avoid passing through it, I came to a shepherd, 
who was not only watching his flock, but at 
the same time employed in making a ditch. Con¬ 
cluding from this sign of his industry, that he 
was an honest man, I asked if I was in the road 
to Charleroi: after considering' a short time, 
he said, Ah Charleroi! that is the place which 
our coals come from; you must go through 
Fleurs and several other villages, whose names 
lie mentioned. I thanked him, and returned 
to Fleurs; which place I reached at four 
o’clock: as I endeavoured to avoid passing 
through it, I became entangled with some cross 
roads, and w as obliged to ask my way of a man 
who was digging, who informed me that I must 
go through the village, and then turn to the 
right, which I accordingly did: happening to 
look back, I perceived him leaning on his spade, 
and looking very,earnestly after me; I fancied 
that he was inclined to pursue me, and did not 
think myself safe until I was at a good distance 
from him. Being arrived at the end of the 
village, I asked my road of a woman who was 


185 


spinning 1 at her cottage door; she pointed to a 

turning nearly opposite, and said that I must 

% 

6 go up tlie lane by that chateau/ 1 went up the 
lane at the corner of which stood a mud-walled 
cottage, but to my surprise, saw neither castle 
nor country house, which I understood by the 
term chateau: this led to a large waste land 
which w s intersected by numerous roads and 
paths, and I was obliged to be directed by my 
compass. About sunset, I came to a farm 
house, which, compared with most of the others 
1 had seen, was a very decent one: I went up 
to it, and asked the mistress, whom I met at the 
door, for a drink of milk : she said they had 
none; 1 asked for some water, and she bade 
me come in : seeing I did this with a great 
deal of caution, she said, ‘ Fear not my child, rest 
yourself, you are a conscript/ This I denied, 
but she said, never mind. I got a jug of water, 
and sat down. In the course of two or three 
minutes her husband, as I supposed him to be, 
came in, and she said, here is a poor conscript, 
quite a young man, he is very tired: fearing 
he might detain me, I rose to go; he told me 
to rest myself, but I preferred to proceed: the 
woman then came outside the door, and pointing 
to a village at a short distance, said you must turn 
away to the right to avoid the chateau, as the 
three gensd’armes are very severe men. I 


thanked her, and did as siie directed. I now 
found that the huts of the gensd’armerie were 
dignified with the title of chateau. The vil- 
lage being large, T had to go a great distance 
round to regain the road, which afterwards lay 
through large wood and waste lands. The night 
was dark and cold, notwithstanding which, I was 
so very thirsty that I kept taking water from a 
small brook which frequently intersected the 
road, first in one hand, then in the other, until 
they were both quite benumbed; after which 
I got several times on all fours, and drank from 

the half-frozen stream. 

►- » 

1th February. About midnight, I came to 
a road with villages and farms scattered about 
it; amongst these I eagerly looked for a resting 
place, but could find none: after walking two 
or three times through one of the larger villages, 
being very much fatigued, I laid myself down 
in a cart which stood before one of the houses. 
It was not long before I fell asleep, not having 
had two hours sleep since I left Cambrai: but 
in a couple of hours I awoke, the cold being 
so intense, that it had covered every thing with 
a hoar frost: I arose and re-examined every 
barn and stable throughout the village; most 
of them were infested with dogs, who set up 
barking directly 1 approached the doors; so 






137 

that the people at two or three houses got up 
and looked about the yard. In one door, I 
found a breach large enough to admit me, but 
not being able to find the bottom with my foot, 
I would not venture to jump, for fear of being 
unable to get out again; although the warmth 
of the place, made me very desirous of making 
one in the party of hogs which it contained. 
I took another nap on the ground, being shel¬ 
tered from the wind, by a barn on one side, 
and a dunghill on the other; but could not 
sleep many minutes on account of the cold. 
I therefore kept forward on my journey, but 
at a slow rate, being very stiff. On entering a 
lane which was sheltered by a bank, with a 
small hedge on it, I found the cold so much 
abated that I lay down to sleep at the foot of 
the bank, where I had several short naps until 
daylight, when I proceeded but little refreshed 
iwith mv night’s rest, although better able to 
keep on my legs. After walking a short dis¬ 
tance, I very unexpectedly came to the foot 
of a ladder, which appeared to invite me into 
a loft, the door of which was standing open: 
I joyfully accepted the invitation, and as 
nobody was yet stirring, I went up and hid 
myself in the straw at the farther end of it. 
Here I remained all day undisturbed, and was 
much better off than when in the barn I had 



i 


US 

hid in before, as l was now able to turn about 
at pleasure, and keep my face uncovered. 
About sunset, I prepared to renew my march, 
and having’ brushed my clothes as well as I 
was able, 1 looked at the map to see where I 
was, and in what direction I had to proceed: 
having settled this, I intended to find by my 
' compass, which of the roads I was to pursue, 
but on feeling for it, it was not to be found. 
I searched every pocket a dozen times, but in 
vain; it w as gone! 1 looked about the loft, 

but still without success. I thought at first of 
returning to the places I had been in the night 
before, but concluded that if I had lost it in 
or about the cart in which 1 had slept, it must 
have been found during the day; and as I 
could not search after it until night, 1 deter¬ 
mined to proceed at once, although I was quite 
dispirited at my loss, and thought it impossible 
to find my road without a compass, which had 
hitherto been my chief guide, and without 
which, particularly in dark foggy nights, I 
should not have been able to have kept an hour 
in the same direction. It was about five o’clock 
when I descended the ladder, near which 
several men were at work, but they did not 
observe me. I walked, as fast as I was able, 
past any persons I met with, that I might not 
appear to be fatigued, although J was much 


139 


stiffer than the night before. The evening 
became very dark, and the road was extremely 
rugged. By the time it was eight o’clock, I 
was completely knocked up, from the stiffness 
of my joints, and my sore toe, which I was 
sure to hurt against the frozen ground, at 
almost every step I took. At length I was 
obliged to lift one leg forward with my hands, 
and then draw the other after it: although it 
was only the commencement of the night, and 
I had not made much progress during the day. 
I eagerly looked about for a shelter, but could 
find none. Not being able to move any longer, 
I sat down on some logs of wood, which were 
lying at the road side; nor could I prevent the 
tears from forcing themselves into my eyes, as 
the aches and pains which I endured were ex¬ 
cessive : at the same time I contrasted my situ¬ 
ation with that of Capeland, and his unfortunate 
fellow prisoners, and thought myself extremely 
fortunate, in having arrived so far without 
accident. I also felt very glad that no person 
was with me, to be a witness of the helpless 
condition to which I was so soon reduced. 
Only three days before, no fatigue appeared 
too great, no undertaking too daring for me to 
attempt: now I felt myself a helpless being*, 
trembling at the sound of a footstep. It was most 
likely, if I had had a companion who was not 


140 


as much fatigued as myself, lie would have 
been displeased at having to wait for me. 
Having sat about an hour, I made shift to get 
up, and creep along very slowly, in hopes of 
seeing' some barn into which I should be able 
to enter: in about an hour, having walked I 
suppose nearly a mile, I saw a ladder standing 
against a loft door. As the people in the house 
were still moving about, it not being ten 
o’clock, I was obliged to approach with con¬ 
siderable caution ; for in case of any one coming 
after me, I knew it would be impossible to 
escape. I ascended the ladder very softly, but 
on putting my hand into the loft, laid hold of 
something alive, which immediately drew away. 
I descended and retired to a short distance, but 
finding that every thing remained quiet, I endea¬ 
voured to persuade myself, it w as only a dog, 
pig, or some other animal which had been put 
up there. Being very unwilling to lose this 
lodging, of which I was so much in need, I 
again went up the ladder, and after groping 
about the door, but finding nothing, went in 
and covered myself with straw. 

8 th February . Waking about daylight, I 
found that I was lying close to something very 
warm: I supposed it to be the same animal I 
had laid hold of the preceding night, which l 


141 


hoped would turn out to he any thing rather 
than a man, but would not move myself for 
fear of disturbing it: my uncertainty did not 
last long, as he stretched himself, and said a 
few words, which not understanding, I feigned 
to be asleep : he then got up and went down the 
ladder. Being yet very stiff, and not wishing 
to travel during the day, I went to the further 
end of the loft, which was very large, and so 
full of hay that I had very little fear of being 
discovered. 

I remained here the whole day, which was 
the most comfortable I had passed since leaving 
Cambrai. I finished my stock of bread and 
butter, and set out as soon as it was dark; at 
first I felt rather stiff, but it went off as I got 
warm, and I was much easier than I expected 
to be. I continued walking all the night, 
and directed my course by the north star. 

9 th February. In the morning I found myself 
at the side of a wood, which I entered, intending 
to remain there all day: having seated myself on 
the stump of an old tree, I began to pick out the 
letters which were marked on my clothes, in¬ 
tending in future to produce my American pro¬ 
tection as a passport. By eight o’clock, several 
persons had passed near me, which induced me to 


142 





shift my quarters, and I accordingly left the 
wood. The day proved to be rather rainy. At 
two o’clock, after travelling through fields, 1 
came to a lonely farm-house ; I went in and 
asked if they could let me have a drink of milk. 
An elderly man, who appeared to have the gout, 
was sitting by the fire, which was made of coal 
dust, worked up with water and clay, into 
round balls bigger than my two fists, and re¬ 
taining their shape whilst burning, looked like 
a pile of red hot shot: he desired me to sit 
down, and asked what countryman [ was; I 
told him that I was an American. He then 
enquired if I had a passport: I produced my 
protection, which looking at, and not under¬ 
standing, he shook his head at it. He asked 
where I came from, and to what place I was 
going. I said that I was travelling from 
Amiens to Namur; on which he remarked that 
neither of those places were mentioned in the 
pass. I told him it was not a common pass, 
but one which gave me permission to go to any 
part of the empire, in the same manner as the 
natives of France were allowed to travel 
through every part of the United States. He 
asked how long I had been at Amiens, and 
what my business was whilst there. I said I 
had been staying there about two months with 
my mother’s brother, Monsieur Lercup. ‘ And 


why did I leave him?’ 1 was going- to remain 
with another brother, who w as an ironmonger 
at Namur. * Where was my mother born ? and 
what was her name ?’ Maria Louisa Lereux, 

born at Paris. ‘Was I a Roman Catholic?’ 

. ' * 

No, I was not. This question he put, from 

observing I did not cross myself at the be¬ 
ginning or end of my meal; for by this time 
I had tossed off two pints of milk, and de¬ 
molished several slices of a fine brown loaf. 
Sacre—said he to this, and then demanded 
if my mother was not. Certainly she is, re¬ 
plied I. ‘ Then why not you also?’ I don’t 
know% but I never was taught to be one.— 
Not liking his questions very much, I rose to 
go, and enquired what I should pay him; 
having first put tw r o or three good slices of 
bread into my pockets. He said I was wel¬ 
come to what I had, and what I gave would 
be for the servant. I laid on the table, six 
or eight sols, and having received back my 
protection, the servant shewed me the direct 
road for Charleroi, which was at the distance 
of three leagues and a half. As I passed the 
barn, I saw two stout fellows threshing, which 
was a danger I had not been aware of. I 
thought that if the old gentleman had been 
inclined to arrest me, f should not have much, 
difficulty in getting away from him. I soon 


144 


gained the right road, which was easily dis-* 
tinguished from any other, by the quantity of 
coal which was scattered about it, and by the 
number of horses, each laden with a sack of 
coals, which were met on it. 

As I approached the town, the roads became 
very dirty, and as there are no foot-paths to 
the French roads, I was often ancle deep: 
this made me in a very poor condition to 
pass through a town, in which it was unsafe 
to have the smallest appearance of a traveller, 
but I was under the necessity of passing it, 
at all events. Fortunately for me, it was just 
about sunset when I came to the suburbs, 
which appeared to be the most favourable part 
of the day for me, on account of the number 
of people who were passing in and out of the 
town. After going some distance amongst the 
houses, I saw one a short distance before me, 
which had iron bars before the windows, and on 
watching, found that all carts which passed it 
were stopped. I had no doubt but they over¬ 
hauled travellers in the same manner. Being 
opposite to a lane which led to the river, I went 
down it, and having taken off my gaiters and 
shoes, washed them, and put the gaiters into my 
pockets; whilst I was doing this, two or three 
boys amused themselves, by throwing stone in 


145 


the water to splash me. I returned to tlie 
street, and passed the house I suspected, with¬ 
out molestation. After walking round a large 
square near the middle of the town, I crossed 
the river by one bridge, and recrossed it by 
another, which brought me into the Namur 
road as I wished. Charleroi is of a consider¬ 
able extent, but not well built: the houses are 
in general small, and have a shabby appear¬ 
ance. I continued on the Namur road, for 
the distance of two leagues, when coming to 
a small house, which stood alone at the road 
side, I thought it would be a good place to 
try for a supper, and accordingly summoned 
up courage enough to go in and ask for a 
drink of milk; one pint was brought me, 
which was soon followed bv another. Having sate 
about half an hour, and feeling myself tired, 
I determined on asking for a night’s lodging: 
the only persons in the house, were a middle- 
aged woman, her daughter, or daughter in 
law, as I supposed, and an infant belonging 
to the latter; every thing about the place 
was very clean, although of the roughest kind. 
I asked what distance it was to the nearest 
inn on the Namur road: they said it was a 
short two leagues. I told them I had tra¬ 
velled from Mauheuge, and felt myself very 
tired; I should be much obliged if they would 

JL 


146 


let me remain the night, as it was now getting 
dark, and two leagues would detain me three 
hours; they said they had no spare bed, but 
appeared to consent to my remaining if I 
pleased. About eight o’clock, the husband of 
the young woman came home, and they told 
him what 1 had asked: he also told me they 
had no spare bed ; but as he neither told me 
to go, nor appeared to be displeased with my 
staying, I remained quiet, in the course of the 
evening, two farmers came in, and bargained 
with them about some peas, but they did not 
trouble themselves about me. After this, we 
passed the evening round a blazing hearth 
very pleasantly; they were happy themselves, 
and wished to make me so. I felt myself 
quite at home, and partook of their happiness. 
My host asked me the age of his infant: I 
guessed six months, which was a few weeks 
too much: he then reckoned how long it would 
be before he would be able to walk and to 
talk, set me to guess his wife’s age, his 
mother’s, and then his own, and told me what 
time they had been married, how long he had 
lived in that house, with many other of his domestic 
concerns. The child left his mother to play 
with me. They asked my age, how many 
brothers and sisters I had, if any were as 
young as their little one, if I should not bo 


147 


glad to go home and see them again; or per¬ 
haps, said they, you intend to remain always 
in France. I said it was very possible I 
might, although nothing would please me better 
than to return home again. He enquired what 
sort of a country America was, if we had 
good corn, beef, wood, potatoes, &c. I told 
him it abounded with ail those things; but 
when I mentioned the prices of sugar, coffee, 
tea, molasses, &c., they regretted the high 
prices of them in France, by which their use 
was prohibited. 

/ ; 

At ten o’clock we sat down to supper, 
which consisted of a large dish of potatoes, 
and a basin of melted butter and vinegar; 
after crossing themselves and remaining 
silent some minutes, we began.—Not being 
able to eat as many as they wished I should 
they said it was coarser fare than 1 had 
been used to, and brought about a dozen 
new laid eefffs. Having* washed mv luxurious 
supper down with copious draughts of excellent 
milk, we finished as we had begun, and re¬ 
sumed our stations round the fire. Soon af¬ 
terwards, they brought two trusses of clean 
straw, and a pair of sheets, coarse as sacking, 
but extremely white, which were spread near 
the fire for my bed. 

h 2 


148 


1 Oth February . In the morning*, I felt myself 
very much refreshed by having* had my clothes 
off. At day-light some farmers called here on 
their way to Namur, to which place my host 
told me he was going, and they set out together. 
Whilst they were in the house, one of them asked 
who I was : my host said, I was going to Namur, 
but being fatigued, had asked him to lodg'e me. 
The stranger put two or three questions to me, 
but the others being ready, he went with them. 
At eight o’clock I got np and had a bason 
of hot milk, with buns and eggs for breakfast: 
when I had finished, they asked me to join 
them, but herb tea without either milk or sugar, 
did not appear to me at all agreeable. I would 
willingly have remained here all day, but did 
not wish to tell them that I was travelling 
by stealth. About eleven o’clock, being quite 
refreshed and all ready to renew my march, 
I asked what was to pay: they said twelve sous : 
I gave a half-crown and told them to take 
twenty-four sous : whether they did or not I 
cannot say, as the change was in coin which 
I had never before seen. I think, however, 
they only took their original charge. On going 
out I enquired if there were any gensd’armes in 
the next village: they replied, that there were 
seven, and at the same time enquired if I was 
without a pass. I said I had one, bid them good 


149 


day, and proceeded with the determination of 
not passing through the village ; on coming 
to it, 1 turned to the right. The village 
was large, and a wood lay between it and me; 
I w 7 as entangled for some time with the wood, 
and as the day was rainy, the sun seldom 
shewing himself, I had nothing to steer by, 
and was obliged to guess my road. I passed 
the cottages of several wood-cutters, but did 
not like to stop at them, until coming to one 
which was alone, I went towards it, and found 
three or four young children left by them¬ 
selves in it; one of whom pointed out the road 
to me. It was but a short distance off, and quite 
level and clear, although it ran through the 
thickest of the wood: about a league from 
Namur, it ended in a very broad, well drained 
plain. A great number of persons were passing' 
and repassing; the greater part of whom were 
healthy-looking country women, each carrying 
on her head a bundle of very fine flax, by 
which I supposed they were returning from 
market. I went into a house, and after 
getting a draught of milk, remained about 
half an hour to rest myself. It was about 
four o’clock when I came to Namur: it 
has good Avails and the several strong holds 
which are in the neighbourhood, must make 
it difficult of approach to an enemy. The 


150 


gate to which I passed nearest, had an avenue 
of trees, &borit a quarter of a mile in length, 
before it: and from what little I saw of the 
town, which I did not enter, it appeared to 
be the most lively place 1 had seen in France. 
When 1 had got about two miles from the town, 
I discovered that I Was in the wrong road : that 
which 1 ought to have pursued, runs along 
the banks of the Meuse : I therefore crossed 
some waste lands, and having descended the 
cliff which is about fifty feet in height, got 
into the direct road to Liege. 

The river Sambre falls into the Meuse at this 
place; the stream was now very rapid, and 
drifted with it a great quantity of ice. 
There are several islands in the river, which, 
with the numerous houses and villages occu¬ 
pying the East side, which is low, and the 
opposite cliff which abounds with iron ore, and 
is enlivened in many places by groups of work¬ 
men, make the scene very picturesque. I 
travelled about four miles without meeting with 
many villages, compared with those on the 
opposite side. 1 then went into a cottage, 
where there were only a woman and her son 
about twelve years old, from whom I got some 
bread and water, but they were not given with 
a good will, and as soon as I had finished, 


151 


she wished me to go away to the inn, which 
she said was not far off. I continued sitting 
until two other sons and her husband came in 
from wood-cutting, who not appearing to be 
any better pleased with my company than the 
woman had been, I paid two or three-halfpence 
and set out again, refusing their offer to send 
the lad with me to the inn. I kept walking 
along the side of the river, until I was in¬ 
terrupted by a brook, about two miles distant 
from the cottage. I turned down by the side 
of it hoping to find a bridg’e: on entering a small 
garden through which the brook ran, a large dog 
came barking after me; I was afraid he would 
have laid hold of me, and alarmed the house, 
so that 1 should be taken as a thief, but before 
he had reached me, I found two or three planks 
laid as a bridge, by which I crossed into a 
small road, expecting to cut off the wind¬ 
ings of the river, and get into a safer road: 
that by the river side was so very rugged 
and slippery, that it required no small degree of 
caution to travel it with safety, even by day-light. 
After <jfoino' about two miles on this road, I 
found myself so much entangled by a wood that 
was intersected with a variety of roads, that I 
wished myself again on the banks of the Meuse, 
but as there was a drizzling rain, and neither 
moon nor stars were to be perceived, I could not 


152 


find the way. I thought one part of the sky 
appeared rather clear, and concluding* it to 
be over the river, went towards it; but it 
still receded from me. Whilst engaged in 
this pursuit, 1 came to a small rivulet, 
which 1 knew would be a certain, although, 
perhaps, rather circuitous guide to the river in 
which it discharged itself. I walked on the 
ice in those parts where it would bear me, 
and where it was not frozen, kept in the bed 
of the stream over my ancles in water, as the 
sides were so thickly covered with trees, that 
it was very difficult to get a passage between 
them. I often made false steps by the ice 
breaking, but never hurt myself. On coming 
to a part of the wood, which was cleared 
away, and where there were several saw pits, 
I thought it would be an excellent opportunity 
to get a nap in one of them ; having covered 
one completely over with the wood which I 
found about the place, and put in all the saw¬ 
dust I could collect, I made a night-cap of 
my handkerchief, a pillow of my hat, a blanket 
of my coat, and then went to sleep. About 
eleven o’clock I awoke, shivering all over with 
the wet and cold. I directly returned to the 
brook, and continued my walk along it; the 
rain increased, and the night was very dark. 
As I went along, 1 heard a rumbling noise, 


153 


which I concluded to be caused, either by a 
water fall, or a mill; as I proceeded, the 
noise increased, and I saw some sparks dying 
up to a great height: I quickened my pace, 
and on coming to the building from which they 
proceeded, and opening a door, a sudden burst 
of light prevented me from being able to dis¬ 
tinguish any particular object at first, but soon 
I thought I perceived two large furnaces, one 
within a dozen yards of me, each of which 
were lioccasionally stirred up by something re¬ 
sembling a human being, with an immense 
rod of iron in his hand, which made the sparks 
fly up in great quantities : the roaring of the 
furnaces and noise of the water works height¬ 
ened the horrors of this unexpected scene. I 
remained a minute or two motionless with 
the door in my hand, to recover my eye sight, 
as well as to assure myself that I was not 
intruding on the infernal regions, than which 
nothing could be more in unison with the de¬ 
scriptions and pictures which are usually given 
of them. I went towards the man who stirred 
the nearest furnace, and having told him that 
I had lost myself in the wood, from which 
I had vainly endeavoured to extricate myself 
since dark, asked if he would allow me to 
remain there until day-light: he consented with 
the greatest cheerfulness, and assisted me in 


i 


drying my clothes. The other man came to 
us, and having brought out the contents of 
my pockets, which were quite full of bread 
and butter, with two or three buns, we made 
our suppers from it. 

• * 

I found they were occupied in melting the 
iron ore, which is procured in the neighbourhood, 
into pigs.—I laid down to sleep in the coolest 
part of the place I could find. 

II th February, Sunday. I set off before sun¬ 
rise, and kept along the banks of the Meuse : 
there were about twenty schuyts lying before 
the first village 1 arrived at. I looked to see 
if any belonged to Rotterdam, and would have 
enquired if any were going that way, but 1 
was afraid. Having washed at a stream which 
cros&ed the road, I began to look out for a 
breakfast, but met with no houses, until about 
nine o’clock, when 1 came to several poor looking* 
houses: as they all had small gardens, I approached 
without fear, knowing by this, that none of them 
were occupied by gensd’armerie, who not being 
certain how long they were to remain sta¬ 
tionary, would not have been at the trouble 
of cultivating them. The first I entered, was 
detached from the others, and from seeing a 
calf at the door, I made sure of being able 
to get milk, but was disappointed. Only an old 


355 


m 

woman was in the house, of whom I enquired if 
there was a mayor or any gensd’armerie in 
the neighbourhood: she told me that the mayor 
under whose jurisdiction this place was, lived 
at a village half a league distant. This in¬ 
telligence was very agreeable, and having 
nothing to fear, 1 determined to try every house, 
rather than leave my breakfast, for which I 
had a keen appetite. I went into four or five, 
and found them all to be as poor as the first, 
having neither eggs nor milk, but being told 
of a large farm close by, where they kept a 
number of cows, I went to it. In the yard 
were three or four large dogs, who kept close 
to me as I went to the house, where on en¬ 
tering the kitchen, l found a servant girl em¬ 
ployed in dressing three or four children. When 
I asked her to let me have some breakfast, 
she appeared to be quite frightened; I re¬ 
peated my request, and said that I wanted 
some milk, and bread and butter ; she still ap¬ 
peared to be quite frightened, and without 
speaking, stretched over to a shelf, and gave 
me the half of a large apple puff. I asked 
again for some milk, on which she beckoned 
me to come to the door, and pointed to a 
barn on the opposite side of the yard: directly 
I was over the threshold, she slammed the door to 
pnd bolted it, and then ran to secure the windows. 


1 eouid not forbear laughing at the fright 1 
had unintentionally given the poor girl. I 
went into the barn, hoping to find it was a 
dairy, but it proved to be empty, and I suppose 
that she, in her turn, had the laugh at me: 
I walked away with the puff, which I found 
to be very good. I dare say she would have 
a long* story to tell her master and mistress 
of the narrow escape the house had ot being 
robbed, or the children of being carried away, 
as her first care had been to secure them in 
another place. 

Passing through a village, I met all the 
people going to church : until t! en I had for¬ 
gotten that it was Sunday, although the day 
before I had thought of it. The irregular 
manner in which I had passed the week, made 
it rather difficult to keep an account of time. 
About eleven o’clock, being in sight of Muy, 
I went into a very clean respectable farm-house, 
and asked for> some dinner: they set before 
me some cold meat, bread, and butter, on 
which I dined heartily. Having rested myself 
about half an hour, brushed my shoes and 
clothes, and paid the reckoning, I proceeded 
into Huy, and after walking through several of 
the streets, I filled my pockets with apples, and 
continued my journey along the banks of the 


157 


i 


river towards Liege. The greater part of Huy 
is on the East side of the Meuse, and joins 
that on the West by a very elegant stone 
bridge, the end of which is inclosed by a hand¬ 
some fortification: an elegant quay is built along 
the river, to the distance of four or five miles; 
on it I met with a number of well dressed 
people enjoying the sunshine. I did not rest 
any where between Huy and Liege, but about 
two miles before I arrived at the latter place, 
I overtook a man, of whom I enquired the 
road. As he was going the same way, we 
walked together, and got into conversation. 
He told me that Liege was a very wicked 
place, and that, as soon as people found that I 
was a stranger, they would endeavour to cheat, 
if not even to rob me; he advised me what¬ 
ever house I went to, directly on going in, to 
order my supper and bed, and not to join 
in company with any people who might be 
in the house. I thanked him for his advice, 
and said, as it was such a very bad place, I 
did not like to trust myself in it, but if he 
would let me remain the night at his house, 
I would willingly pay whatever he thought 
proper : to this he made some objection, which 
I did not understand, but I believe it was 
that he had to go to some other place before 
he returned home. He soon afterwards parted 






158 



from me, and I continued along the road, until I 
arrived at the gates of Liege. The suburb through 
which I passed, was of considerable extent. 
I endeavoured to get into the Maestricht road 
without entering the town, but after trying 
upwards of an hour, found I could not, on 
account of a rivulet which was only to be 
crossed by a bridge within the walls. I re¬ 
turned towards the gate at which I first ar¬ 
rived ; on my way I called at a chandler’s 
shop, and bought a pound or two of bread, 
and a lump of cheese. When near to the 
gate, I stopped to observe the motions of 
the keeper of it: as it was very dark, I could 
not ascertain if the foot passengers were in¬ 
terrupted, but from the number who passed, 
I thought they were not; the carriages, I saw, 
were. I took courage, and walked through 
without being spoken to, and immediately came 
to a very fine bridge over the Meuse: each 
side of the river was lined with hewn stone, 
and planted with rows of trees, which must 
give the city a handsome appearance in the 
day time. I did not lose much time in ad¬ 
miring the bridge, being anxious to leave the 
town before ten o’clock, at which time I ex¬ 
pected the gates would be closed, when 
1 should be in danger of being taken up by 
the patrole, 1 came to the gate I wished, 



159 


"with very little trouble: it led on to a fine 
broad road, along’ which I travelled two leagues, 
but finding by the moon, that it did not run exactly 
in my direction, 1 returned to the skirts of the 
town; and not being able to discover the right 
road, I made up my mind to wait where I 
then was, until 1 met with some one who should 
be able to direct me. 

lQth February . In the course of the night, I 
took several naps in a cart, which stood under 
a shed, but whenever I awoke, I got up and 
walked a mile or two, to warm myself before 
lying down again. As it was a fine clear frosty 
night, I regretted very much not being able 
• to proceed on my journey. About four o’clock, 
I heard the noise of people getting a waggon 
ready : in about half an hour they set out, and 
as soon as they came to me, I enquired of the 
driver, my road to Maestricht. He asked if I 
bad been travelling all night, which I said I 
had not been, but had set out about an hour 
ago, wishing to be at Maestricht very early. 
After having walked with him about two miles, 
he shewed me a turning to the right, and gave 
me further directions for the road. I kept 
travelling over fields, and by cross roads : about 
eight o’clock, as I was crossing a common, 1 
saw a gend’arme on horseback, with a farmer 


1G0 


walking by his side, at a few paces from me. 
I made so sure that no hope was left for 
me, that had I been near a wood, or any other 
place where I could have had the smallest 
chance of dodging him, I should have at¬ 
tempted it; but as I was circumstanced, I 
was obliged to face him with as much un¬ 
concern as possible: on meeting, I slightly 
touched my hat, and said * bon jour. Monsieur,’ 
in quite an indifferent manner: he returned 
the salute, by taking off his imperial cocked 
hat, and making me a very polite bow; but 
being engaged talking with the farmer, took 
no more notice of me. I continued my jour¬ 
ney with greater spirits, but at the same time 
with more fear; the road being very intricate, 
as well as dirty, I was able to proceed but 
slowly. About noon I went into a small shop, 
and got some bread and butter as well as milk; 
the man and woman of the house were drinking 
tea, without either milk or sugar, out of very 
small cups. I remained here upwards of an 
hour, during which time the woman never put 
her cup down, except to fill either it or the tea 
pot: she was the greatest sloven both in house 
and person I had met with in the country; 
her husband was a very decent man, and an¬ 
swered any question I asked very satisfac¬ 
torily. 


161 


Oil my way to Maestricht from this house, 
Which was at the distance of two leagues and 
a half, I passed many houses and walls of the 
soft yellow stone which is called in England, 
Flanders brick; they had a very pretty ap¬ 
pearance, and it is very easily quarried. 

It was about four o’clock when I arrived 
close to Maestricht, which is a tine large town 
strongly fortified. As there was no occasion to 
enter this place, I took a road which led round 
the outer part of the .works; it was very dirty. 
After inquiring of two or three people, I got 
into the May seek road. At sunset, being very 
tired, and the night proving rainy, 1 began 
to look out for some place where I should 
be able to procure a night’s lodging: by going 
towards one house, and then towards another, 
without entering any, I at length got out of 
my road; and on meeting two women, who al¬ 
though employed in brickmaking had the neat¬ 
ness and simplicity of quakers in their dress, 
I inquired my way: they did not understand 
French, but took the trouble of waiting, al¬ 
though they had burthens on their heads, until 
I made them understand where I wished to go, 
and then asked me in Dutch, if I wished to go to 
Maestricht ; I replied that l did, and they direct¬ 
ed me accordingly. Having passed through 


162 


a small village without being yet come to ! the 
right road, I saw a farm standing by itself, and 
went towards it in the hope of being allowed to 
pass the night at it. In front of it was a canal 
newly dug out, into which the water had not yet 
been admitted: having crossed this, I went up 
to a young man and inquired the road, which he 
showed to me: I thanked him, and said that being 
very, tired I should be much obliged if he would 
allow me to rest myself in the house a few 
minutes: he said I was very welcome, and 
shewed me into the house, where his mother 
sat knitting on one side of the window, and his 
sister was working on the other. I begged 
to be excused for my intrusion, as having 
walked from Liege I was very tired. The 
mother not understanding French, her daughter 
stood interpreter; in a few minutes we were 
quite familiar, and I already began to regret the 
necessity I should be under of parting quickly 
from so interesting a girl. On asking me a 
question which I did not perfectly understand, 
after guessing an answer or two, I was obliged 
to confess my ignorance; on which she asked 
me what country I belonged to. On my telling 
her, to America, she said to her mother quite 
rejoiced, oh, this is an American: I thought when 
he came in that he was not a true Frenchman. 
The old lady now had several questions to put to 


163 


me, but the daughter had too tnany of her own, 
to a]low r her to interpret all of her mother’s; 
but understanding' several of them, I made shift 
to answer in Dutch. In this manner I told them, 
that I was travelling from Liege, at which place 
I had been about two months with my uncle, and 
was going to Bois le Due, where I had another 
uncle who was a merchant. The daughter in¬ 
quired if I had with me nothing to sell, and 
on replying that I had not, she asked what I 
used to do when with my uncle; I said that I 
used to write. She then asked if I did nothing 
else: I said that I did not: she directly laid 
hold of my hand, and looking at the palm, said, 
it was not writing which had made it so hard. 
I replied, that had arisen from pulling the ropes 
occasionally on our passage from America. 
Coffee and tea being ready, they invited me to 
take a cup with them, which I of course was not 
inclined to refuse. The farmer having come 
in, servants and all sat down together; they 
behaved to each other as brothers and sisters, 
and were all clothed in the same plain manner, 
excepting the mother and her daughter, whose 
clothes were rather better. The whole group 
resembled much more what we should have ex¬ 
pected to meet with amongst the Patriarchs, 
than amongst the modern French. The farm 
yard was well covered with barns, and every tiling 

m 2 


164 


about it was extremely regular; the house 
with its furniture was as clean as if it had been 
in Holland. The farmer, on hearing what 
countryman I was, had several questions to 
ask ; such as whether we hod wheat in Ame¬ 
rica, what price provisions Were, &c. To save 
the trouble of so many questions, several of 
which I did not understand, I gave as good 
an account of America as I was able to do, 
in broken Dutch, explaining in French what 
I could not otherwise make understood. They 
were quite astonished at the prices of land, 
wood, sugar, tea, and coffee, &c. which the 
farmer abused the French for depriving them 
of: he told me he neither understood their 
confounded French language, nor liked their 
laws. He asked what language we spoke in 
America. Not liking to say it was English, I 
said it was a proper language, but this did not 
satisfy him, for lie asked if it was Latin, Ita¬ 
lian, German, French, &c. I said that it was 
English, but there were many villages, in which 
Dutch and German were spoken. Tea being* 
over, they all returned to their various oc¬ 
cupations, and I was again left with the mother 
and her lovely daughter. After sitting about 
a quarter of an hour, they said the young 
man who had brought me in, would go with 
me to the inn, and as they were acquainted 



/ 


365 


with the landlord, he would see that I was well 
accommodated. I said that since I had been 
sitting’, I had got pins and needles in my 
feet, and felt so much more fatigued than 
before, that if it was not trespassing too much 
on them, I would wish to remain a little longer. 
They replied that I was very welcome, but 
they thought as I was so tired, the sooner I 
went to bed the better; that their house had 
not a room in it, which was not fully oc¬ 
cupied, and that it was not more than five 
minutes walk to the inn, where they would 
take care that I should be well accommodated. 
To all this I replied, that I was too tired to 
move yet, which made them both look quite 
surprised, and they said, that if my pass was 
good, I could have no objection to go to the inn. 
I said my pass was good, and immediately 
produced it: they said they had never seen 
such an one before, and shook their heads; 
but I would not hear a syllable against it. 
Putting it again into my pocket, I sat 
down. In a few minutes, a gentleman came 
in very smartly dressed: the daughter ran 
towards him, and after a few words, he asked, 
whom have you got here ? meaning me : she 
replied, it is an American, who talks English. 
3 made sure he was the mayor of the village, 
whom they had sent for to examine me, and 


]6<5 


when he went into the next room to lay his 
hat down, I said that as I new felt myself 
rather more refreshed, I would accept of the 
offer they had made of the young' man to 
shew me to the inn: after they had given 
him very particular directions about speaking 
to the innkeeper, to let me have good accom¬ 
modations, we set out as the stranger re¬ 
entered the room. By the few words I then 
heard, I found it was another son, who bad 
just come from Maestricht. 

I had arrived within a stone’s throw* of the 
village, without having been able to g*et rid 

of my guide, whom I had several times thanked 

. 

for his trouble, and requested that he would 
return, saying that I should he able to find the 
house; but he kept on without making any 
answer, and appeared to be a very stupid lad: 
he was now about twenty yards before me, when 
I called to him to stop; he did so. On coining 
up, I gave him a piece of silver money, and 
told him to go back; he stood still looking 
at it, then at me, but did not come any farther. 
It was now past seven o’clock, the night was 
dark, and I did not know where to look for the 
right road, but was obliged to follow that which 
appeared to lead nearest in the direction in which 
I wished to go. I was stopped on one road by aa 


167 


inundation* which extended to several of the ad¬ 
joining’ fields: I then had to turn back and take 
another, which was very little better, being 
frequently lip to my knees in mud and water, 
on passing places where the ice had been 
broken. 

About ten o'clock I arrived at a village, 
through which I had to pick my way from 
door to door on stepping stones, which had 
been placed, where most necessary. On coming 
towards the end of the village, I knocked at 
the door of a very shabby cottage, and asked 
if they would let me have something to drink: a 
young woman opened the door, whom I begged 
to sell me some bread: she asked me if I 
would not come in, which I did with a very 
good will: an old man and his wife 
were sitting beside the fire, and desired me 
to sit down. I enquired how far distant I 
was from the nearest inn, and was told, one 
league and a half. They enquired what caused 
me to travel at so late an hour, particularly 
in that state of the roads. I replied, that 
it was necessary I should reach Mayseck as 
soon as possible: the young woman stood in¬ 
terpreter, as they spoke only Dutch. Whilst 
1 was eating some bread and butter, which, 


168 


with some milk, had been set before me, they 
said if I chose to put up with a truss, as they 
had no bed to offer me, X should be welcome 
to remain there all night. This offer X was 
very glad to accept, and thanked them: they 
directly began to dress some potatoes.—On 
taking off my shoes and stockings, not only 
to dry them, but also to look at my foot, 
which had given me some pain during the day, 
I found it looked much worse than it felt, 
and the people of the house gave me a piece 
of linen, which was very requisite. 

We continued chatting together as well as we 
could, until the potatoes were ready, when I 
was quite surprised to find this trouble had 
been entirely on my account, as they ate none, 
saying they had supped before X came in, 
When I had finished my meal, which received no 
small relish from the great kindness which had 
actuated these hospitable peasants in providing 
it for me unasked, when all their neighbours 
were asleep, as well as in welcoming me to 
their bouse; they spread some clean straw 
for me near the hearth, and seeing that I was 
sleepy, as I had fell asleep three or four times 
in the evening, even whilst talking, told me 
to lie down whenever X pleased. I laid down 


169 


without farther ceremony, and immediately 
fell asleep. 

18^ February. In the morning* I was awaked 
by the father and mother, calling* from the 
room in which they were, to their daughter, as 
I supposed her to be, to get up; and on looking 
about, 1 found she had just risen from another 
straw bed at the fire side. I enquired what 
time it was, and found it was five o’clock. I slept 
until about eight o’clock, when 1 found my 
breakfast of bread and milk ready, which having 
finished, I gave half a crown to be changed. 
It was about half an hour before they returned, 
having been obliged to go to several houses, 
before any one could change it; such is the 
very great poverty of the inhabitants of this 
fertile country. Their charge was a mere 
trifle. 

It was about ten o'clock when I set out $ 
the day was rainy, and my way was along 
cross roads. About one o’clock it began to 
rain hard: being at the entrance of a village, 
I went into a neat cottage for shelter; where 
finding only a woman and a child, and seeing 
some fine bacon hanging to the beams, I asked 
if she could let me have a slice or two with 
some eggs: she consented, and as she went into 


170 


the next room for a frying pan, l looked to see 
if there was any person there, whom she could 
send for a orend’armes. As there was no 
one, and the rain was increasing, I considered 
myself to be in safety; but having dined, 
and paid what she asked, I continued my 
journey towards Mayseck, at which place I 
arrived between four and five o’clock. It 
is a very inconsiderable town, as well with 
respect to its fortifications, as to its size and 
appearance. As there is a road round the 
walls, I did not enter the town, but got into 
the road to Wee t, which bein«f little more 
than a foot path, was of course difficult to be 
distinguished from the others which crossed it; 
however, by frequently asking those I met with, 
if I was going right, I did pretty well, till 
getting into a wood, about one league from 
Mayseck, I completely lost myself. As it came 
on to snow, 1 kept the snow beating* always 
on one side, and after walking* in that manner 
about two miles, was glad to find myself once 
more in the open country. The first cottage 
I came to, I entered and enquired my road : 
they sent a little boy to direct me about half 
a mile across fields. The country on this side 
Mayseck was very barren, compared with the 
paradise I had, until now, been passing through, 
which I suppose, excepting Holland, may be 


171 


reckoned the best peopled and most highly cul¬ 
tivated tract of land in Europe of its size; 
although, for upwards of two hundred years, 
it has been continually changing masters, and 
has been the theatre of most of the bloody 
wars of Europe. The great number of large 
cities, most of them master-pieces of fortification, 
which it contains in a small space, are proofs 
of its population. 

About seven o’clock I went into a very poor 
little cottage, and having asked the distance 
I was from the nearest inn, found it to be two 
leagues: I sat dow n, and asked if I could be 
allowed to remain there all night. The woman 
spoke only Dutch, and not understanding her 
answer, although she appeared to wish me away, 
I remained sitting until her husband came in, 
whom 1 made understand that 1 wished to 
remain at his house for the night: he appeared to 
have no objection. Having got some milk, and 
bread and butter for supper, I hung my shoes 
and stockings up to dry, and took my seat at 
the fire-side with the others. VVe were soon 
joined by two proper Dutch boors, who im¬ 
mediately they came in, seated themselves with¬ 
out even saying a word to the woman, or taking 
their pipes out of their mouths, and continued 
playing cards with the man of the house, and 


172 


smoking, until eleven o’clock, when they walked 
away without looking either at me, or any 
thing else. In the course of the evening, the 
woman and I had several times attempted to 
make ourselves understood by each other, but 
not being able to succeed, I took a few naps in 
my chair ; she was employed knitting. When 
the company went, the man of the house took a 
lanthorn, and shewed me up into the loft, where 
I soon made a very good bed in the hay. This 
house was built after the general plan of this 
part of the country, that is, with the door in 
the middle; on the right hand side when you 
enter the door, is a stable for all their cattle; 
on the left, is a room with an immense iron 
cauldron, supported by a crane, in which they 
boil the chopped hay and bran, with which 
they feed the cattle; beyond this, is the room 
in which they live, and a small sleeping room; 
the loft runs over the whole building. 

14 th February . About eight o’clock, having 
had breakfast, and satisfied my host, I set out 
again on my journey. The morning was very 
sharp and pleasant, but my foot gave me so 
much pain, that I began to fear I should be 
obliged to look out for some lonely house in 
which I should be allowed to remain a week or 
two, whilst it was healing. On first setting* 


175 

out, it Was with the greatest difficulty I Was 
able to set it to the ground, but it gradually 
gave me less pain, so that in about an hour I felt 
Very little inconvenience from it; it only gave 
me pain when I chanced to kick against a 
stone, or the frozen ground. The country 
being quite open, and the roads rather intricate, 

I was frequently obliged to inquire my way. 
On entering the village of Leuroy, I saw a 
man with a blue frock on, coming towards me; 
taking it for granted by his dress that he was 
a farmer, I wished to ask my road of him, and 
seeing him stop at a door, I quickened my 
pace, but not coming up before he had entered, 
I knocked at the door, which was opened by 
himself. The house was adjoining the church, 
and as I waited, the clock struck eleven. I 
asked the road to Weert; having a glass of 
beer in his hand, he asked me to drink with 
him, and inquired where I came from: as he 
held the glass to me, I perceived that he had 
a brown cuff to his coat, edged with white, 
and knew by this, that he was a member of 
some of the divisions of the police. I refused 
the beer, and told him I came from Liege, re¬ 
peating at the same time that I wished to know 
the road to Weert. He asked if I had a passport: 
I said yes, and immediately produced the pro¬ 
tection: he then told me to come in, and in- 



374 

quired where I was going’ to: I went in and 
said that I was going to Hamont. He asked my 
name, and on my saying it was Keith, he looked 
at the protection, which beginning I Joshua 
Wingate, collector for the district, Vc. &c. he 
said this is not the name which is here, and 
1 besides,’ said he, * this is for last year,’ being 
dated 1809. I endeavoured to explain it to 
him, but as he understood scarcely a word of 
French, could not succeed. He asked me if I 
could not speak German, Flemish, or Dutch; 
I endeavoured to give him Dutch, but he could 
not understand what I said in it, although I 
made out every thing he said. He at length 
told me, it was not a proper pass, and that I 
must go with him. I then said, ‘ we only mis¬ 
understand each other; step outside with me 
a few moments, and I will explain myself 
better.’ He looked very knowing, and pulling 
out a large horse pistol, said, you need not think 
of getting away: I told him he needed not 
fear my going without my pass; and laughing 
at his pistol, said, if it was to frighten me with, 
he would be disappointed, as it was most 
probable I was better acquainted with the use 
of such things than himself. The woman of 
the house, and her daughter, had been looking 
on, but dared not speak a word: the mother 
placed herself behind my opponent, and shewed 


i 


175 


me by her gestures, the pain she felt for me; 
she appeared much more concerned, than I 
could have expected any stranger to be. 
Having returned the pistol to his pocket, he 
went outside the door with me; I offered him 
a crown to let me go, but he refused it; I then 
offered him two, saying, as it would only detain 
me an hour or two, and give both of us some 
trouble, he had better accept of my offer. I 
would have given him a louis or two with 
pleasure, but could not get at one easily. He 
would not listen to the offer, saying, the Em¬ 
peror had made him a lieutenant three months 
ago, and that he would be faithful to the Em¬ 
peror, and not take bribes; that he knew 
by my mustachoes I was a deserter from the 
dragoons, and must go with him. 1 said, he 
must think me a great fool, not to have shaved 
off my mustachoes, if I was a deserter, but 
that it was the fashion of my country: he said, 
then you are a spy, and the Emperor has 
ordered us to take up all spies, as well as 
deserters* I asked him very angrily, if he knew 
w T hat he was talking about, when he called an 
American citizen a spy, and said that we were 
not at war with the French, but all of us who 
were in France, were under the protection of 
the Emperor, who would not allow us to be ill 
used* We returned into the house, and having 


1 16 


put on liis hat, he said, I must go with him to 
the Mayor. I said, very well, but made sure 
of being* sent to prison : I of course felt sorry 
at being arrested, and thought if 1 had only 
been able to take one step over the bounds of 
France, I should not have minded it half so 
much. I was greatly encouraged by the dis¬ 
tance I had travelled without discovery, and 
began to form plans for escaping on my way 
to prison. I continued in the resolution I had 
formed long before leaving Cambrai, of never 
confessing who, or what I w as, unless it was 
necessary to save myself from being shot as 
a spy, and even then, not until the day of exe¬ 
cution, as I knew there was a minute description 
of my person sent from Cambrai to every town, 
which would be proof sufficient to clear me. 
The greatest concern which I felt, was on ac¬ 
count of my shoes, which, although new on 
leaving Cambrai, were now nearly off my feet, 
and from the fear of being so completely plunder¬ 
ed, as not to have enough left to buy a pair of 
shoes, which might hinder my escape, as it would 
excite too much suspicion to see any one well 
dressed in other respects without shoes. The 
possibility of returning to Cambrai in such a state 
as I had seen others in, was not very pleasing. 
On leaving the cottage, he took out his pistol 
again, and collared me $ I looked at him very 


177 


hard, and asking* how he dared attempt to 
treat a citizen of the United States of Ame¬ 
rica, like a robber, disengaged his hand : he 
called out “ Monsieur le Maire, Mons. le 
Maire,” but Mr. Mayor, the back of whose 
house was separated only by a small held 
from us, not hearing, we had to pass through 
the village. I. went first, and he strutted close 
behind, with his stick and pistol, apparently 
quite elated by his prize: the people who 
saw us pass, did not appear to join in his 
satisfaction, but I thought looked as though 
they pitied me. He knocked at the Mayor’s 
door, and it was opened by himself ; he was a 
good-natured looking man, his house was very 
neat, and had a mill belonging to it. After 
the usual salutations, he enquired what my 
business was. I told him very carelessly, the 
man had made me come with him, saying, 
that I was a deserter or a spy. He shewed 
us into his office, which the gallant lieutenant 
wished to secure, but the mayor said, there 
was no occasion, smiling at the man’s pre¬ 
cautions. The room being hung round with 
maps of the country, and views or plans of 
the neighbouring towns, I amused myself in 
looking at them, whilst the lieutenant gave 
a flaming account of his heroic achievement: 
when he came to the part, where I offered 

N 


I 


i is 

him money, he enlarged so greatly on his pa~ 
triotism and fidelity to his Emperor, and <?ut such 
capers with his pistol, as greatly to amuse both 
the mayor and myself. When he had finished, 
the mayor asked me very mildly, where I came 
from, and several other questions, some of 
which 1 did not, and others I pretended not 
to understand; being uncertain what an¬ 
swers to make. He then paused a little, 
and asked if I understood Dutch or German, 
I told him that I did not, but that I could 
read and write French much better than I 
could speak it, and asked him to be at the 
trouble of writing down such questions as he 
wished me to answer : he immediately got pen 
and ink, und wrote in French—Where do you 
come from ? As I overlooked him whilst writ¬ 
ing, and as under pretence of turning my words 
into French, I had time to deliberate on an an¬ 
swer, and could see all the former questions 
with their answers, I thought I should be 
able to do pretty well, and wrote in answer 
to his first question, 

< 

“ From Liege.’* 

• > 

.a 

a Where are you going to?’* 


w To Halmont.’ 5 


179 


€< Do your parents live at Liege?” 

“ No ” 

i 

“ What business had you at Lie^re?” 
u It was on my route.” 

“ Your route from whence?” 

v 

“ From Dieppe.” 

<c How came you at Dieppe?” 

• . ' ■ * 

Ci In the American Ship, Maddison, which 
was detained by a French privateer.” 

c< On what account?” 

c< On suspicion of being bound to England.” 

" If she has been detained, you also were de¬ 
tained.” 

“ That is not the law.” 

He then took up the paper, and after reading 
it over to those who were in the room, for 
by this time thtee persons had arrived, armed 

N 2 


180 


with muskets and with swords to guard me to 
my destination, said, his answers are very 
clear, and he cannot be a deserter from the 
army, as he does not understand any of the 
languages which are spoken in it. He then 
wrote— 

t 

“What are you going to do at Halmont?” 

“ To see Monsieur Lereux, my mother’s 
brother.” 

« What is he ?” 

“ An ironmonger.” 

“ Where is Halmont?” 

When I answered his second question, I meant 
Hamont, a town three or four leagues off; but 
recollecting he might have acquaintance there, 
or might forward me with a guard to the person 
1 said I was going to, and fortunately seeing 
a village called Halmont in the map, I deter¬ 
mined to take advantage of an error, which, if 
I had not committed, would have added fresh 
difficulties to my situation: I therefore told 
him, it was a village on the river Aa, distant 
one league from Bois-le-duc. He put a ga- 


181 


Ketteer of France into my hand ; and I showed 
him the river Aa, with which he was satisfied. 

“ Why did you not obtain passports of the 
prefect, before you left Dieppe?” 

I did not know it was necessary. In America, 
foreigners are allowed to travel in whatever 
part of the country they please, without any 
more molestation, than if they were natives; 
and I supposed it to be the same here.” 

“ What papers have you produced to pass you 
on the road ?” 

“ That which is now in your hand.” 

“ And no other ?” 

u None other was ever demanded of me.”— 
At this he shook his head. He then read the paper 
over again to those who were in the room, and 
said he did not know what to do with me. One 
of them said, perhaps he is a thief. On which, 
my friend the lieutenant, told a man to lay 
hold of each of my arms, for fear I should draw 
out some weapon, whilst he proceeded to search my 
person. On their taking out my silver, the Mayor 
made them put it back immediately; the re- 


* 


182 


mainder of my money, and my watch, they did 
not discover: having 1 emptied my pockets, they 
felt the collar of my coat, and all about it, but 
not finding any thing secreted in the linings, 
they examined every thing which had been 
taken out of my pockets. The first thing they 
opened was my map; the Mayor asked me 
where 1 got it. I told him 1 bought it a 
Dieppe. He then asked if we had any such in 
America? I said there were plenty. He next 
inquired of what use it was to me. I was for a 
moment at a loss for an answer; but then said, 
that, as I was so little acquainted with the French 
language, it was difficult for me to make myself 
understood, in asking directions for the road; 
and if on leaving Dieppe, I had inquired of 
any one the road to Bois-le-duc, they would 
not have been able to inform me: but when I 
looked in the map, and asked for a place at the 
distance of six or eight leagues, they were able 
to direct me with ease. He said that I was per¬ 
fectly right. On observing the bread and butter 
which were in my pockets, he said, that was very 
necessary, as it would not do to make too many 
stoppages on a journey. On seeing a spare pair 
of stockings, and two pocket handkerchiefs, the 
Mayor said, “ he has deserted from Verdun on 
this the lieutenant jumped about, and said, “it is 
a kicky day for me, I shall have forty-eight livres 


183 


for having arrested him.” I appeared quite un¬ 
concerned, and continued to amuse myself with 
one of the Mayor's little children, who had entered 
with its mother, as though I was uninterested 
in what was going on. The Mayor looking me 
in the face, said, “ do you know Verdun?’ 5 
“ Vedin, Veedun—a town ?” 1 shook my head, 

and said I had not passed through any place of 
that name. He then said, “ see if he has not got 
two shirts on.” The lieutenant soon looked; 
but finding only one, and a flannel waistcoat, they 
appeared convinced that I had not deserted 
from prison. He then wrote— 

/ 

“ Where did you learn French?” 

Ci At a school in America.” 

“ This,” remarked he, c< accounts for his not 
being able to speak it as well as he can write it.” 
Whilst I was writing, Madame looked over me, 
and seeing my hands swelled and scratched to 
pieces, said, u poor fellow, what is the matter with 
your hands?” I said, oh it’s nothing, merely the 
cold : but the mayor said, u he has scratched them 
whilst travelling in the woods by night:” which 
was actually the case. Having paused some 
time, he said, “ 1 must send you to the prefect 
at Ruremond, who will provide you with the 
iiecessary passports to proceed on your journey. 1 ’ 


184 


i inquired the distance, and if it was on my 
route: he said it was eight leagues off, and told 
me to look at the map for its situation. I looked, 
and finding it quite out of the road, said with 
a sigh, (for I had told the same tale over so often, 
that it appeared to me like the truth) “ that is 
a great distance to go out of my way,on so long 
a journey.” He then talked for some time 
with the others, and told them he had no fault to 
find with me, excepting that my passport was 
not in due form; for which it was hardly 
worth while to send them to guard me so great 
a distance; but that it would be best to let me 
proceed onwards to my friends. They had 
nothing to say against this, and the Mayor 
wrote, “ I will allow you to proceed on your 
journey, but if you are again detained, you 
must not say you have been here.” 

“ Certainly not.” 

Here our conversation closed; and the Mayor 
took great care that I received back every thing 
which had been taken out of my pockets. He 
offered me both beer and spirits, but being 
warm with anxiety, I took a glass of water, 
and proceeded on my journey, after slightly 
expressing my thanks to him, for having given 
me so little trouble: but nothing' would have 


185 


given me greater pleasure than to have given 
him my watch, as an acknowledgement of my 
obligation, and of the respect I have for him; 
as I believe him to be a magistrate, who would 
neither allow an offender to pass with impunity, 
nor endeavour to vex any one, who acted cor¬ 
rectly, with the tedious forms of the law. The 
lieutenant was quite polite ; he opened the door 
for me, and came several yards after me, to 
shew me my road. 

[ scarcely knew how to contain myself, as 
I went along, and now began to think it pos¬ 
sible, that I might be fortunate enough to reach 
England : but I hardly dared encourage the 
thought; as the means by which I was to get 
over, were so little known to me, that I could not 
even form any probable conjecture of the manner 
in which it would be accomplished. I had not gone 
a mile, still engrossed with these thoughts, when I 
met a soldier, with a bundle hung by his sword 
over his shoulders : he asked me the road to some 
village, which I said I did not know, and con¬ 
tinued walking on : he then asked if I had shewn 
my papers in the village l had just passed ; I turn¬ 
ed round and said, I had : this again banished the 
thoughts of England from my mind, and made 
me think only of the continual danger I was 
exposed to, of being arrested. About four 


186 


o'clock 1 passed close to Weert, which is a very 
poor little town, surrounded by a wall of no 
strength: after which, my road lay over large 
sandy downs, for the distance of two or three 
leagues. As I went along, several tilted carts 
passed me, each holding about six passengers: 
several of the drivers asked me to get in ; but 
tired as I was, I would not venture; neither 
had I any cause to be sorry for my self-denial, as 
I observed that a person came out of the house 
at which they stopped in each village, and 
looked into the carts, as though it was for 
suspicious persons. 

About seven o’clock, on coming to a very 
miserable looking hut, I resolved to go in, and 
get something to eat: on opening the door, I 
saw the father, mother, and five little children, 
round a table, which had a lamp and a large 
dish of potatoes, with a cup containing melted 
butter and vinegar in it. I went up to the 
table and asked if they would let me have some¬ 
thing to eat. They said, if I pleased to sit down 
with them, I should be very w elcome. I did 
so with pleasure, promising myself a fine supper, 
instead of a piece of brown bread and a drink of 
water, as I had expected. The good woman 
sent for a plate for me, which she kept well 
supplied with the smallest of the potatoes? 


187 


which are the best, and plenty of sauce. AH 
the others helped themselves off the dish, 
sticking their forks into a potatoe which they 
dipped into the sauce, and then ate. When 1 
came in, I was resolved not to remain longer 
than an hour or two, to rest myself for a night’s 
journey; but feeling much fatigued, and finding 
the people of the house extremely attentive, I 
made up my mind to remain there all night. 
Having told the old tale, that I was too much 
fatigued to proceed to the next inn, I requested 
them to allow me to remain for the night; 
which was willingly complied with. Supper 
being over, we took our seats round the fire, 
and I pulled off my shoes and stockings in order 
to dry them; but the woman seeing they were 
dirty, washed my gaiters, stockings, and hand¬ 
kerchief. She also gave me some warm water, 
to wash my feet, which were much swelled, 
and my toe looked very bad. I asked the man 
if he had a pair of shoes which he could sell 
me; he had none except wooden ones, but told 
me of a shoemaker, who lived about eight miles 
off. On inquiry, I found that my road lay 
through his village, and I determined to call 
o,o him in the morning. 

\5th Febi'uctry. —I slept in the loft, which 
was rather cold, and having breakfasted, set 


188 


out about seven o’clock. On coining to the 

# 

village in which the shoemaker lived, I went 
to his house, where I found him at his work. I 
asked if he had any shoes which would fit me: 
he said he had none ready made, but would 
soon make me a pair. I inquired if it was 
possible to make them before night: he said 
no, but he would let me have them in the morn¬ 
ing. This would not do, but seeing a pair 
hanging over his head, and finding they fitted 
me well, I asked him to sell them; which he 
agreed to do for five livres and my old shoes 
to boot. Whilst he was making a couple of 
straps to my gaiters, I borrowed his razors; 
for on looking in a glass which was in the 
room, I was surprised that my savage appearance 
had not been the occasion of my being arrested. 
All the time I had been a prisoner, I shaved 
only my under lip and chin, leaving mustachoes 

and whiskers to grow at random, that I might 

* 

be able to shave them into any shape L should 
find most convenient: but not having had an 
opportunity of shaving, since leaving Cambrai, 
a,nd having been very much exposed to the 
weather, there was not any part of my face 
below the eyebrows, which was not thickly 
covered with hair, at least half an inch 
long. The shoemaker having finished my 
gaiters, took the razor, and soon relieved me 


189 


of several ounces of hair, making a clean sweep 
of the mnstachoes, &c. which I knew it was 
not the fashion to wear in Holland. I settled 
with the man, and renewed my journey with 
fresh spirits; being quite warm about the feet, 
although not so in the face, which felt the loss 
it had sustained as severely as my back would 
have found the loss of a coat. 

About eleven o’clock I passed close to Eynd- 
hover, which is much such another place as 
Weert. After making a circuitous route of 
two or three miles through fields, 1 came to 
the finest road I had ever seen: it ran four 
leagues in as straight a line as possible, was 
broad enough for six carriages to pass abreast, 
rounding up in the middle, and planted on 
either side, with rows of trees. About 
two o’clock I went into a fine large clean 
farm-house, and asked for something to eat: 
the mistress did not appear inclined to comply 
with my request; but on my showing her some 
money, and saying I would pay for what I got, she 
gave me a slice of bread and butter, and a 
sandwich: I got some milk, and seeing some 
new laid eggs, put a couple in my pocket, and 
roasted two others in the ashes, which is the 
common way of dressing them in France. She 
did not appear to be pleased with me for making 


190 


so free; but when I had paid what she de¬ 
manded, which was much higher than the 
charges I had been accustomed to, she brought 
some biscuits and sold them to me. 

On passing through the village of Boxtell, 
which was very large and populous, I began to 
hope I had arrived at Bois-le-Duc, which I had 
always considered as a strongly fortified place, 
and very difficult to pass; but on enquiring of 
an old gentleman and lady, if it was Bois-le- 
Duc, they smiled, and told me it was Boxtell, 
and that Bois-le-Duc is a very large place, at 
the distauce of two or three leagues. I thanked 
them and walked away, although the gentleman 
wished to have said more to me. 

Having travelled about two leagues further, 
I came to a public-house, before which w r as a 
great crowd of farmers and carriers, each of 
whom had a horse. About half a mile distant, 
a bridge commenced, which I think is upwards 
of a mile in length, leading to the gates of 
Bois-le-Duc. The country, as far as the eye 
could reach on either side, was overflow ed and 
covered with ice. I inquired the road to two or 
three different villages, in order to discover if 
it was not possible to avoid passing through 
Bois-le-Duc, which I much dreaded, I found 


101 


it was practicable, by going* three or four 
leag’ues round, and intended to pursue that 
course, after satisfying my curiosity by a nearer 
look at Bois-le-Duc, which holds a place 
amongst the principal cities of the French 
empire. I felt the wind intensely cold as I 
went along the bridge, and when arrived at the 
gates, I liked so little the thought of returning, 
that I resolved to attempt a passage through 
the town : after watching for some time, I saw 
some countrymen pass through without being 
interrupted; but all horses and carriages were 
stopped. I waited until a carriage was passing, 
and entered close behind it: seven sentries 
were on duty in the battery round the gate, 
where some police officers also were looking 
out, as were some others just inside the town; 
but very fortunately no person spoke to me. 
It was about five o'clock when I entered the 
town, and I was very anxious to get clear of 
it again as soon as possible. I went along a 
street which ran nearly parallel to the wall, 
on the left hand side of the gate, until I crossed 
a bridge, which led me opposite the town 
house, where a number of people were as¬ 
sembled: I joined the crowd, whose attention 
was divided between the band which was 
playing at the town house, and some young 
lads wdio were galloping about on very fine 


192 


horses; both horses and riders were accoutred 
in the most costly manner I had ever seen. 
From the great number of troops which were 
in the town, and from the bustle, I concluded 
the emperor was there, but dared not to ask if 
it was so. I soon quitted the crowd, and keep¬ 
ing* by the side of the river which I had crossed, 
arrived at a quay where several small vessels 
were lying ; here I asked of a man my road to 
Fugling, which was the name of a village 
about a league distant, through which I had to 
pass: he informed me that I must cross a ferry 
close by; but thinking we might have mis¬ 
understood each other, I inquired of another 
man; he said, “ it’s to England you wish to go, 
is it?” No no, said I, that won’t do, but I must 
go to Engling: he then repeated the direction 
which the other person had given me. I went 
to the ferry, and having landed on the opposite 
shore of a small stream outside the walls, gave 
the lad who ferried me over, a small piece of 
money; seeing he was much pleased with what 
1 had paid, I asked of him the road to Engling; 
he said, I could not go wrong, whilst I kept 
by the side of the river. 

Bois-!e~Duc is the handsomest, and most 
lively place I had seen in France; it is very 
strongly fortified both by nature and art; the 


193 

surrounding’ country can be overflowed at 
pleasure, to a considerable distance. 

About half past seven o’clock, on coming 
near some houses, I met a young man, and 
inquired if I was in the road to Engling; he 
said, we were then in Engling: I then asked 
the road to Heusden ; he told me of two ways, 
but speaking only Dutch, and not being able 
to make me understand as well as he wished, 
he said if I would go home w ith him, his father 
and brother who understood French, would 
direct me better than he w r as able. I hesitated 
for some time, not knowing if I should trust 
myself with him or not; but the place I was in 
being so very intricate, I had no other resource, 
and therefore followed him. As we went along, 
1 asked if there was a Mayor in the village; 
he said there was, but that was of no conse¬ 
quence. Although it was dark, I could perceive 
that the houses were all very neat, and quite 
differently built from what I had seen in any 
other part of France. Having walked together 
about half a mile, we arrived at his house, 
which was a grocer’s shop : on entering, I was 
astonished at the regularity and cleanliness of 
every article about it, which gave it more the 
appearance of a model, than of a place in con¬ 
tinual use. I followed my conductor through 


o 


194 


the shop, into a back room, where his fa¬ 
ther, . mother, and brother were sitting*: he 
told them that I wished to know the road to 
Hensden, and then went oat again, having 
returned from the place where I met him, 
merely to conduct me. They told me the road 
to Hensden was so very intricate, that it was 
impossible for a stranger to find it; and advised 
me, as it was late, to go to the inn for the night, 
and to hire a guide in the morning: I thanked 
them, but saidT was determined to reach the 
next village that night, as the moon shone, and 
it was not late: they then said if I pleased, they 
would send for a guide to conduct me to the 
next village, which is called Fleming, at 
the distance of two leagues and a half: I 
thanked them for the trouble they were giving* 
themselves, and said it would be doing me a 
great favour. 

Whilst I waited for the guide, they asked 
me if I was going any farther than Heusden; 
1 said that 1 was going from thence to Gorcum; 
they told me my nearest road to Gorcum, would 
be to cross the river at once; but not wishing 
to do this, I said, as I had some business at 
Heusden, it was necessary for me to pass 
through it. They inquired if I was ‘ en requi¬ 
sition I replied, I was not. They then asked if 


i 


196 

* 

I did not belong 1 to the French army, and 
appeared to be rather surprised when I said I 
did not , but I told them I was attached to the 
marine. I inquired what was the occasion 
for having 1 so many troops in Bois le-Duc: 
they told me they were to march into Gor- 
cum, and several other towns of Holland, 
on the morrow. I inquired if the Emperor 
was in the town: they informed me that he 
was not, but that the Duke de Reggio, a 
Marshal of the Empire, and Commander in 
chief of the Army of Holland, had been re¬ 
viewing the troops. They asked me how long 
I had been at Bois-le-Doc; I told them not 
above an hour: they asked how I had obtained 
a passport to go into Holland in so short a time, 
as it is always necessary to apply three days 
previous to receiving it. 1 told them I was 
not under the necessity of going through the 
usual forms of geiting passports at so many 
different places, as 1 was provided with 
one which not only served for the whole of 
the Emperor’s dominions, but also for the 
kingdom of Holland. They said they did not 
know that there were any such granted, and 
expressed a wish to see it. I produced it, and 
said, “all the Americans who are in France and 
Holland, have similar ones/ Not being able 
to understand a word, they returned it, far 

o 2 


196 


from being convinced that it possessed the great 
powers which I ascribed to it. 

The guide arrived, and having received 
his instructions, which were, to be sure and 
shew me the inn at Flamand, I paid him, 
that we might not have any dispute on parting: 
finding myself getting short of small money, 
I changed half-a-crown, and then set out. 
The night was very fine. My guide speaking 
only a few words of Flinch, did not know that 
I was not a Frenchman. 

The whole of the country lying between 
Engling and Flamand, which are the French 
and Dutch frontier villages, is a swamp, with¬ 
out any other road than what has been beaten 
by the footsteps of travellers. My guide told 
me it was allowed to remain in this state, as 
it was in neither country; the magistrates of 
each, being equally unwilling to incur the ex¬ 
pense of draining and forming a road, the ad¬ 
vantages of which would be equally great to 
their neighbours and themselves. Our road 
was very narrow and winding, and overflowed 
and frozen on each side. About ten o’clock 
we arrived at the Dam, which separates 
Flamand from the marshes• I gave him a 
small present, and said he might return $ which 


197 


lie was unwilling* to do, saying he had been 
paid to shew me the inn: but l told him, I 
should be able to find it myself, on which he 
thanked me, and returned. 

I crossed the dike, and entered one of the 
nearest cottages, asking them to sell me some 
milk: the man who opened the door, told me 
to come in whilst he got it: I accordingly 
seated myself at the fire side, where his wife 
and a young woman were sitting; the latter 
was much better dressed than appeared con¬ 
sistent with the appearance of the cottage, 
which was merely clean and comfortable: as 
she was the only one of the three who spoke 
French, we soon entered into conversation. 
After the usual questions, of where I was from, 
where I was going to, and what occasioned 
me to travel at so late an hour; she said, surely 
you are not a Frenchman? I replied that I was 
an American. “ An American,” said she, “oh, 
that is the country where the people are black, 
is it not ? and where the sugar and coffee comes 
from?” I said that many of the people were 
black, and that others like myself, were only 
copper-coloured; and that sugar and coffee 
abounded there. 

I sat talking over my bread and milk very 


198 


contentedly, in the hope of being able to sle#p 
there, as I over-heard the young woman asking 
the man of the house to accommodate me with 
a night’s lodging, urging that it was most pro¬ 
bable the inn would be shut up before then, and 
that I should not be able to get into any house in 
the village: but he persevered in refusing, say¬ 
ing, it was too great a risk to lodge any one 
since the French had been in possession, and it 
was only a short time ago that the Burgomaster 
had published new regulations concerning* 
lodgers. The wife said neither pro nor con, but 
gave me as much to eat and drink as I asked for; 
but finding the man to be inflexible, I did not 
say a word about remaining, but determined to 
sit as long as I was able. The JufFrow told me 
what she had been requesting, and said that she 
could not interfere much, being only a visitor, 
and then entered into a long tale concerning 
herself; but she spoke so fast, that all I could 
make out was, that she bad a mother-in-law who 
was very ill tempered, with whom having had 
some dispute in the afternoon, she had come 
to this cottage, where the people were so good 
as to accommodate her: neither of us were 
yet tired of the narration, which I dare say 
would not have ended very soon, when the man 
told me I should be too late to get a bed at the 
inn if I stopped much longer. 1 asked if there 


199 


was any danger of not being able to find the inn. 
The visitor told me, that it I came to any gate 
which was closed, I must not endeavour to pass 
that way, but go another road, as it was closed 
on account of the road being overflowed, and 
proceeded to give an account of a person who 
had been drowned by falling into a ditch at 
night, and of two or three others who had nearly 
shared the same fate lately ; the old lady con¬ 
firmed these accounts, and added a few cir¬ 
cumstances which the other had omitted. I sat 
very patiently, wishing success to the gossips, 
and should have been well pleased if they had 
continued their tales until midnight, which 
they appeared in a fair way of doing, as I well 
knew the instant they were at an end, T 
should be obliged, tired as I was, to quit a 
comfortable fire side, to trudge along an un¬ 
known road, on a frosty night, in the month of 
February; but the man getting tired of their 
gossip, which I did not wonder at, took his 
hat and said he would shew me the road to the 
inn, which obliged me to depart. After we 
had got a few steps from the house, I wished 
him to return, saying, I should find the inn my¬ 
self, but he continued with me until we were 
in sight of it. I was well pleased to get 
clear of him, and having learned as we came 
along, the road to Hensden, continued my 


200 


journey, in the hope of meeting with some barn 
in which I should be able to rest myself until 
morning. 

February 1 5lk .—As 1 travelled along, I was 
surprised at meeting people who were passing 
from one house to another even after midnight. 
During the whole of my journey through France, 
I had never met any one after ten o’clock, and very 
seldom even after sun-set, excepting some com¬ 
panies of boys whom I met with the first two or 
three nights, who went across the fields singing 
until near daybreak: 1 could not guess the 
meaning of it. 


It was near three o’clock before I could find 
any place to rest myself in: I then came to a stable 
in the midst of a village, in which, as there was 
but little straw, it was difficult to conceal my¬ 
self; but intending to proceed at daybreak, I 
got under the largest bundle in a corner, which 
was sufficient to keep me warm. The first 
thing that awoke me was a person making a 
noise in removing some of the cattle. I was 
fearful of being discovered, but he soon went 
away, on which I got up, and without staying- 
longer than was necessary to take some of the 
largest straws off my clothes, quitted the stable : 
having gone about a hundred yards, I came to 


201 


the church and the pound, where I found it was 
eight o’clock, and found too that I was going’ 
wrong, for 1 remembered to have passed them be¬ 
fore : I had therefore to return, and after walking 
about a mile, was agreeably surprised to find 
myself close to the walls of Heusden. Being at a 
distance from any house, and in a road but little 
frequented, I washed myself, and put my clothes 
in as good order as I was able. I was not certain 
that it was possible to avoid passing through 
Heusden, which being fortified and without any 
suburb, I supposed would be attended with con¬ 
siderable danger, but I determined to go 
round it if possible: having walked for some 
time, 1 went into a cottage and asked for 
some milk, which having obtained 1 asked for 
some bread and butter; the people looked rather 
surprized when I told them 1 would pay for 
what I got, and said they did not sell any thing, 
but being in want of my breakfast I repeated my 
request until they complied. 1 asked for a second 
slice,w 7 hichlhad more difficulty in obtaining than 
the former, but having no idea of travelling on an 
empty stomach w hen victuals were to be obtained 
without danger, I insisted moderately on having 
more. I found that they supposed I belonged 
to the French army. Having finished my 
breakfast I asked what I should pay, but they 


202 


refused to receive any thing* so very positively, 
that I did not press it any farther, blit asked the 
man my road to Dort, who directed me, and 
said, it was necessary to pass a stream which 
ran close to the house: having a boat, he 
ferried me over, for which I paid him with 
a small piece of silver money. I soon came to 
the direct road, which was very easy to be 
known from any other, as it ran on the top 
of the dam, raised to prevent the Meuse, or 
rather as it is here called, the Maese, from 
overflowing the surrounding plains, which are 
in most places many feet below the surface of 
the river. I was very much gratified with this 
day’s journey: it lay through a country I 
had often wished to visit, as it differs so very 
materially from every other part of Europe. 
The high road being lined on either side with 
houses adjoining each other, has the appearance 
of a street in some commercial town ; the 
country looks like one well cultivated garden, 
having* neither waste lands nor woods; not- 
withstanding which, there are trees enough in 
every direction to diversify the landscape, all 
the large roads being planted with trees on 
either side, besides those which compose the 
hedges and orchards. The method of building 
and ornamenting the houses, the dress of the 


203 


inhabitants, and particularly the great number 
and healthy appearance of the men, formed a 
striking- contrast to the country which 1 had just 
quitted, where you scarcely meet with half a 
dozen stout men during’ a day’s journey; here, 
on the contrary, at almost every house, there 
was a stout fellow with two or three sons as fat 
and contented as calves, employed about the 
business of the farm. The difference of the po¬ 
pulation on one side of Bois-le Due from that on 
the other, is so very apparent, that no person on 
passing through would hesitate in asserting 
that they were governed by different laws. If 
the traveller was unacquainted with the poli¬ 
tical state of the two countries, he would suppose, 
from the contented and comfortable manner of 
living in Holland, that they were far superior to 
the French, amongst whom, both in town and 
country, poverty and a certain degree of mis¬ 
trust, are the leading features. But in whose 
eyes does not Holland appear insignificant in 
comparison with the mighty French Empire? 
Who, excepting an Englishman, would think 
of becoming a contented Dutchman, in pre¬ 
ference to being made a citizen of France, 
whose armies, till lately, were deemed exhaust¬ 
less and irresistible, but whose inhabitants are 
oppressed in a manner I should have imagined, 
few conquered countries could have borne. 


204 


Between three and four o’clock I arrived 
near Workum, and was again at a loss how to 
proceed, being afraid to attempt a passage 
through, as it is fortified, yet concluding, by look¬ 
ing at the map, that there was no road at the 
back of it; but having rested myself on 
the road side, I proceeded to search for a 
passage at the back of the town. After walking 
about two miles, I concluded from the direction 
of the cross road I was in, that I was going 
wrong, and should be obliged to return, in 
order to pass through the town : meeting 
a boy, I asked of him the road to Dort, 
who told me to keep forward until I came 
to the river, when I must turn to the left. 
Being quite rejoiced with this intelligence, I 
went forward w ith fresh strength, and, in a few 
minutes, arrived at the high road on the top of 
the dam. I travelled about two hours along 
this road until I came to a public house, from 
whence a ferry boat was setting out for the 
other side: as 1 knew by my map that I 
should not be able to proceed much farther on 
this side of the river, I would willingly have 
crossed over, but as there were six or eight men 
at the door, I made sure some were police officers. 
One of them asked if I wanted to go over the 
river, I answered I did not, and continued walk¬ 
ing onwards: having crossed an inlet by a bridge. 


205 


I found the road was at an end, but I still pro¬ 
ceeded, hoping to be able to avoid passing 
the ferry, where I felt certain that a passport 
would be demanded. Finding, at length, that 
I was on a swampy island, covered with 
rushes, I knew I was at the place called Dies 
Bosch in the map, which was one of the most 
fertile and richest parts of the United Provinces, 
until the year 1429, when it was overflowed, 
and seventy two villages with their inhabit¬ 
ants, to the number of one hundred thousand, 
were drowned : the steeples of many of the 
churches were to be seen above water an hun¬ 
dred years afterwards. The greater part of 
Holland is liable to similar accidents, which 
frequently happen, but on a smaller scale. 

I returned towards the ferry, and entered it 
with three other passengers, whom I met going 
towards it from the house. I seated myself be¬ 
hind the others, in the hope that no person would 
speak to me, but on our passage across, one 
of them asked me in French if I had tra¬ 
velled far to-day : I said from Heusden; he 
answered that it was a long walk for this 
time of the year; not wishing to undeceive 
him as to my being a Frenchman, I made no 
answer. On coming to the shore, 1 made shift 


206 


to ask the boatman, in Dutch, what his fare 
was: he told me two schillings, which I paid. 
As he said something to the other passengers 
who followed him, I supposed he was telling 
them to come with him to the police officers, and 
followed at a short distance behind, not daring* 
to go another way, but when they entered a 
public house, I kept walking* on without daring 
to look behind, as I expected to be sent 
after. I found the name of the village was 
Hartingfeldt, and the distance from Dort two 
leagues and a half. It came on to snow hard, and 
I went into a house and asked the woman to allow 
me to remain until the shower was over: she said 
I was welcome, but did not confirm her words by 
her looks; I seated myself at the fire, and 
could not help being surprized at the extreme 
cleanliness of every article about the room: 
the turf fire was on a hearth, with a plate of 
iron at the back, which was polished as bright 
as a looking glass. The husband soon came in, 
and I remarked that he left his shoes at the 
door, which made me conclude it was my dirty 
shoes that displeased the woman: they got 
tea ready, and I hoped to be invited to 
remain and take some with them, and, per¬ 
haps, to get a night’s lodging also, as it was 
nearly dark, but I soon found myself disappointed. 


207 


for they watched anxiously until it cleared up a 
little, and then told me that the weather was not 
very bad now, and that the inn was not far off. 
I took the hint and went away very little 
obliged to them for the shelter I had received. 
I passed several comfortable inns during the 
evening, but dared enter none; neither dared 
I examine the barns I met with ; the road 
being lined on either side with houses, 
it was the same as passing through a town; but 
about ten o’clock, on coming to a shed which 
had the side nearest the river entirely open, I 
entered it, and finding it was used to keep some 
boats 7 masts and sails in, got on to the beams 
where there were some rushes, of which T. 
made my bed. 

\ltk February .—I slept so sound that it 
was seven o’clock before I set out the next 
morning. Between nine and ten o’clock, 
as I was going along, a boatman in¬ 
quired if I was for Rotterdam, and pointed to 
his boat: I saw one person already in it, and 
another going in, so I went to it at once, not 
caring how far he carried us on our journey, 
as I was rather weary. The river was full of 
ice, which occasioned us to be near half an hour 
in getting across, I found by the conversation 


208 


of the other passengers that this was not the 
usual route, although at present the most eli¬ 
gible one, on account of the difficulty of passing 
de Leh, which is a principal stream of the 
Rhine. One of the passengers asked if I was 
going to Rotterdam, and, on my replying in the 
affirmative,he told me that he also was going there. 
The fare was near a guilder, but having no more 
Dutch money, I was obliged to give a French three 
livre piece, which, although the value was a 
guilder and a half, the boatman refused to take 
for more than his fare. One of the passengers 
had good nature enough to check him for his 
imposition. I walked some distance with the 
person who was going to Rotterdam, hoping 
to enter that place with him, but on pass¬ 
ing through a village he stopped to talk 
with an acquaintance. I walked slowly on until 
I came to a farm house, which I entered, and 
asked for a glass of milk : .they gave me about a 
quart of sour butter milk, having no other, 
which l drank and got some more, with two or 
three new-laid eggs, for two stivers. The road 
was on the top of a bank, but as there was a great 
tract of marshy land between it and the river, and 
it was destitute of houses, it lost the lively appear¬ 
ance of the country through which 1 had hitherto 
been travelling. I exerted myself very much 


209 


in the idea of being’ near the end of my journey, 
as I was not more than five leagues distant 
from Rotterdam, where I indulged myself in the 
hope of getting a good night’s rest, which 1 was 
now much in need of. The only plan I could 
form for myself, was, when arrived at Rotter¬ 
dam, to buy an old jacket and trowsers, and 
being rigged in them, to ship on board of any 
vessel I should find in want of hands. About 
noon I went into a cottage, hoping to find its in¬ 
mates at dinner. Sitting down I asked them to 
sell me some bread and butter: they said they did 
not sell any thing, but that there was a public 
house a few doors off, where I could be supplied : 
I told them, that as they had some in the house, 
they could as well sell it me, in which they did not 
agree, but after I had remained about a quarter of 
auhour, they said, if I liked to wait until thepota- 
toes were boiled, I might have some for three sti¬ 
vers, which offer I gladly accepted. As we were 
waiting, theyfrequenuyasked me questions which 
I could barely make shift to answer, and they 
remarked that it must be extremely unpleasant 
to travel in a country where I did not under¬ 
stand the language: they informed me of a family 
of French in the village, adding, that when the 
husband came home, he should go for some of 
them to talk with me; I thanked them, and 
said, it was of no consequence, as 1 would 


210 


set out immediately we had dined: however, 
when the husband came in, he was sent off to 
their neighbour, although I pressed him not to 
take the trouble ; he returned in a few minutes 
with a lively little girl, about thirteen or four- 
teen years old, and said, the father was not at 
home. The woman having talked to her some 
time, and said, that I was a Frenchman, desired 
her to ask me where I came from: I replied, 
from Heusden : they then told her to ask where I 
was going to ; 1 said, to Rotterdam; from my 
short answers, they put no more questions to me: 
but, after talking with the people of the house 
some time, the little girl went away without dis¬ 
covering that I was not her countryman. Hav¬ 
ing finished our dinner of potatoes, which are 
much finer in this country than any I ever met 
with, even in Ireland, and pocketed a slice or 
two of bread and butter, for which I paid extra, 
I continued my journey. 

I passed through one village, when the boys 
were coming out of school, who hooted me as I 
went along, some coming forward and crying, 
Oh ! here is a Frenchman! others hallooed after 
me, “ Are the French coming to-day?”— 
Their abuse pleased me much, as I knew whilst 
I could pass as a Frenchman, I should not be in 
any danger in Holland. In the course of my 


211 


afternoon’s walk, I went into a farm house, and 
asking* for some milk, took down a looking glass 
and set my neck-handkerchief a little to rights, 
then got a brush and took some of the dust out 
of my clothes. Two or three stout lasses, who 
were cleaning the room, appeared to be 
quite astonished at my behaving so strangely, 
and told their father, who was employed in 
another part of the house, that a Frenchman 
had come in, who wanted some milk : he and 
his son came to look at me, but finding that 
they only spoke Dutch, after the usual salute, 
I continued asking for pins, shoe brushes, &c. 
as I wanted them, and behaved as though the 
house, and every thing in it were my own. The 
farmer and his son, after looking at me a few 
minutes, finding I was not mischievously in¬ 
clined, returned to their business and left me to 
dress myself at leisure : having made an end of 
my toilette, I gave the little children a few 
stivers, and having made the gaping daughters 
a conge, walked away. 

On arriving at the village of Ond Ratten- 
drecht, which is on the bank of the Maese, op¬ 
posite to Rotterdam, I found it filled with 
French troops 3 I was much afraid that some of 
them would speak to me, and had it been 
only the most simple question, such as what 

l l 2 


212 


o’clock it was, I should have been in great danger 
of being discovered, for whether I answ ered in 
French or Dutch, they would have found I w as a 
foreigner; but I was fortunate enough to arrive 
safely at the jetty, from which the ferry crosses 
over to Rotterdam. A new danger here pre¬ 
sented itself, which I imagined to be insur¬ 
mountable—a guard of about a dozen soldiers 
were stationed here, for the express purpose, 
I supposed, of examining the passports of pas¬ 
sengers, To avoid being noticed by any one, I 
W'ent to the extremity of the jetty, and feasted 
my eyes with a sight of Rotterdam, wishing 
to be able to give my companions at Cambrai 
a good account of its appearance, as a proof of 
my veracity, when I should tell them the almost 
incredible tale of having arrived so far in safety. 
Indeed, I now had always to reflect some 
time before I could realize my true situation, 
having been so long used to give a fictitious 
account of myself and my concerns. Every 
moment I felt as the last of my liberty, ex¬ 
pecting to be accosted by some of the guard, 
who were so very near me, and scarcely dared 
encourage the hope of reaching the opposite 
bank. At length, the ferry boat having arrived, 
I went into it with several other persons, who 
were waiting, and we shoved off without being 
molested in any shape by the guard. The day 

\ 


213 


was foggy, and I was ratlier concerned at 
not being able to perceive any masts of ships 
amongst the houses, which made me fearful 
that I should find none but small vessels em¬ 
ployed in the inland navigation. 

The place we landed at, is about a quarter 
of a mile from the gates of Rotterdam. Several 
masters and mates of vessels were trying some 
quadrants ; I stood near them a few minutes, 
inclined to ask if any of them would ship me, 
but as there were several other persons looking 
at them, I was afraid, knowing it would be 
necessary to enter into some explanation on the 
spot. I went towards the city, and entered by 
the Delftshaven port, much surprized at seeing' 
neither sentry nor police officer; the clock 
struck four as 1 went through, so that I was 
exactly thirteen days and thirteen nights on my 
journey from Cambrai. 

It occurred to me that it was about ’Change 
time : I therefore went into the middle of the 
town, in search of the Exchange, hoping to 
hear some one speak English, in which case, 
I intended to make known my case, and ask if 
he knew where I should be able to get employ 
on board of some ship. I had not proceeded 
half a dozen steps through the Exchange, be-^ 


214 


fore I saw an advertisement, in large letters, 
of the Joseph’s cargo for sale, at St. Yallery 
en C aux. When I reached the gate opposite 
to that by which I had entered, ’change was 
over, and the gates were being closed, so that 
I had to reconnoitre in the town. On my way 
to the Exchange, I had remarked one house, 
which had for a sign, an American eagle 
amongst other things, and a great number of 
shops with a list of the articles they dealt in, 
painted in English. I now met with two 
American vessels, and soon after saw a house, 
which had for a sign, an English and an 
American jack. I was much surprised, and 
went near to look at it; whilst I was examining' 
it very earnestly, two young women dressed in 
black, came out of the next house ; as they 
came down the steps, one of them seeing me 
look so very attentively at the sign, began 
laughing, and said something to the other, 
who soon joined her : as they passed me, I could 
scarcely forbear joining in the laugh, as I well 
knew I made rather a strange appearance, and 
not being able to muster a Dutch sentence, was 
on the very point of saying, in English, that 
I did not doubt if they were acquainted with 
my situation, they would be as ready to as¬ 
sist as they were now to laugh at me ; but, sup¬ 
posing it would have been quite unintelligi- 


215 


ble, and thinking that some person might pass 
and hear me speaking English, 1 said nothing. 
As there was Dutch painted under the sign, 
and nothing in English, I would not try that 
house: having walked up and down several 
streets, without seeing any other American ves¬ 
sels, or any house which I could venture to enter, 
I then endeavoured to return to the two American 
brigs; but after trying in vain for some time, I 
observed a man in a green livery turn round 
and look very earnestly at me : suspecting him 
to be a police officer, which I afterwards found 
was the case, 1 determined to retire from the 
town as quick as possible, and to return to 
it early in the morning. Having bought as many 
biscuits as I w as able to put in my pockets, i 
went out of the East gate, and continued walk¬ 
ing from the town until it got dark, when I 
would willingly have secreted myself, but the 
road being lined with houses, and a great many 
people passing in every direction, rendered it 
unsafe to attempt it: about ten o’clock, having 
walked about three leagues and a half from 
Rotterdam, I came to a hay-rick, close to the 
road side, with a thatched roof, which slid 
up and down : here I thought would be a fine 
warm retreat, and immediately jumped into it. 
I was scarcely in, wdien a dog, who had ob¬ 
tained possession before me, began to bark; 


21(5 


I had passed some men standing at a stable 
door close by, and supposed they would pursue 
me ; I therefore made the best of my road 
off. The houses began to be but thinly scattered, 
and soon afterwards there was only a marsh 
covered with reeds on one side of the road, 
and meadows on the other side; there were large 
piles of reeds in several parts of the road, 
from one of which I took several bundles, and 
made a bed under the lee side of the large 
pile, where I slept until midnight, when I was 
awaked by the intense cold. 


Sunday , 18th February . I got up and walk¬ 
ed back towards the last village I had passed 
through, having observed a barn belonging 
to the end house, which I thought I should now be 
able to enter, as the people would be all 
asleep. On coming to it, I found a hole, such 
as is made for poultry to go in and out, which 
being just large enough to admit me, I made 
shift to enter, and found it to be occupied 
by pigs, with whom 1 would willingly 
have laid down for the sake of warmth, had 
it not been for the noise they made on going 
near them, as well as for fear of dirtying my 
Qlothes. I was very cold, as there was no 
straw in the barn, and although very tired, was 
unable to sleep many minutes at a time. After 


217 


remaining* here about an hour, I went out to 
keep myself warm by walking; on arriving 
at my former station amongst the reeds, I laid 
down again, but was soon awaked by tbs snow 
beating on my face : not being inclined to move, 
1 pulled a bundle or two over my face and 
took another nap; the snow however soon pe¬ 
netrated my covering, and I was obliged to 
return to the barn for shelter: here it was use¬ 
less to endeavour to sleep, and I remained 
anxiously hoping for daylight, sometimes lying 
down to rest, and then rising to warm myself, 
I resolved to return to Rotterdam, and bring 
my journey to an end, by seeking shelter in 
the first place I came to with the smallest pro¬ 
bability of obtaining it, as I felt the fatigue of 
this night much more sensibly than any I had 
yet undergone, not only from having exerted 
myself very much the last two days, en¬ 
couraged by the prospect of drawing towards 
the end of my journey, but also from the dis¬ 
appointment I felt in being obliged to quit the 
place in which I had expected relief, without 
finding it. 

At daylight I set out for Rotterdam, where 
I arrived about half past eight o’clock, direct¬ 
ing my course towards the American vessels 
as well as I could guess. I met with a publio 


2X8 


house which had for a sign, the town of 
Boston, I knocked at the door and asked the 
woman who opened it, in Dutch, if they had 
any coffee: she replied they had not, and I 
walked away. The next house I called at, was 
that which had the American and English 
jacks : here also a woman opened the door, 
and I asked if she had any coffee ; she said 
they had none. I was about to inquire if her 
husband was an American, but was afraid of 
exciting suspicion. Having proceeded a few 
yards, I saw the two American brigs which I 
had passed the day before; I now saw that 
one was called the Besdemona of New York, 
and the other the Friendship of Boston; I 
went on board of the latter, and asked the black 
cook, who was the only person on deck, if the 
Captain was on board : he said he was, but 
had not yet turned out; I then inquired if 
the mate was ; he said yes, and went to call 
him : when he came up, I asked if his vessel 
was in want of hands, or if he could inform 
me of any American vessel that was: he said 
there were none in the port excepting* 
the two, and from the uncertain state in which 
they were lying, he did not think they wanted 
any more hands than those who were already on 
board. I then asked, if he could direct me 
to any lodging house kept by an American; 


219 


he said, he did not know of any kept by 
Americans, but he could tell me of several 
kept by English people, if that would answer 
my purpose ; 1 replied, it was all the same to me, 
provided I was able to make myself under¬ 
stood by them : he then inquired if I was an Ame¬ 
rican ; I told him I was protected as such ; on 
which he offered to go with me to the house at 
which I had just before called,where he said he 
was sure I should be well used. As we went along, 
he asked if I had come from up the country : 
on telling' him I had, he said, “ I suppose it’s 

the same with vou as with several others who 

%/ 

have been here of late;” I told him I dared say 
it was, and when he asked what part I was 
from, informed him that I had left Cambrai in 
Fi *ance fourteen days ago, since which time, 
I had travelled on foot two hundred and fifty 
miles; that when I set out, 1 had six guineas, one 
of which was expended on my journey, that my 
name was Gordon, but that I had an American 
protection under the name of Keith. He said 
I might consider myself quite safe, although 
it would be prudent to take some precautions, 
such as altering my appearance, and not walk¬ 
ing about much in the day time. 

When we got to the house, he told the mis¬ 
tress, a Welsh woman, who I was : she directly 


220 


said to me, “ you were here but a few minutes 
ago, why did you not speak English to me ?” I 
said, I supposed that she only understood Dutch, 
and asked her what she took me to be ; she 
replied, she supposed me to be a jew who 
could neither speak Dutch nor any thing else. 
On my asking if I could lodge with her, she 
replied, they had no spare bed, but told me to 
make myself easy on that score, as she would 
find a lodging for rne some where or another. 
Mr. Gross, the mate of the Friendship, would 
not stay to breakfast with me, but promised 
to return in the course of the forenoon, and 
see me fixed in a comfortable lodging. 

I now considered myself to be again in pos¬ 
session of that inestimable blessing* liberty, and 
being* amongst people who spoke English, felt 
quite at my ease, dismissing* all the hopes and 
fears from which I had suffered as much during 
my journey as from all my bodily fatigues. 
I made a hearty breakfast, and then had a 
good wash for the first time during the last 
two days. I had enough to do in answering 
Mrs. Ebbs’s questions concerning my journey; 
she told me of several deserters whom she had 
seen, but I knew none of them. 


About ten o’clock, Mr, Gross returned with 


221 


the second mate of the Desdemona. It was 
proposed to send next door and inquire if they 
could lodge me; in a few minutes a young 
woman came in, whom I remembered to be one 
of those who laughed as they were passing 
me the day before : she also remembered me, 
and told Mrs. Ebbs in Dutch, that she had 
seen me looking at the house the day before : 
on this they questioned me concerning where 
I had passed the night, supposing I had been 
at some house before I came to them, but I 
soon cleared up this to their satisfaction, by 
telling them how I had passed the night. 
Gross told me I needed not be afraid of having 
to pass such another night, as he would let me 
have his bed cn board, and sleep himself on 
shore, in case they should not be able to get me 
a bed at some English house. 

Mary Doll, which was the name of the 
young woman in black, proposed to g*o to a 
M rs. J ord aids and inquire if she could accom¬ 
modate me : in about half an hour she returned 
and said, they would lodge me, but advised 
me to remain where I was until dark. The 
mate of the Desdemona called on me, in the 
course of the day, and they all interested them¬ 
selves so much on my account, that I feel my¬ 
self extremely obliged to them all, but par- 


222 


ticularly to Mr. Gross, who having been the 
first person I applied to, considered me asunder 
his immediate protection. 1 dined with Mrs. 
Ebbs, and having settled with her, set out for 
Mrs. Jordan’s with Gross, in company with 
Miss Doll and the second mate of the Desde- 
mona, who waited only the arrival of Captain 
Doll to be married to her. 

Mrs. Jordan told me, her terms were eight 
guilders a week for board and lodging. I 
agreed to them, and said I hoped it would be 
only for a few days, as I intended to join the 
first merchant vessel of any kind in which I 
should be able to get employed; I told her 
that all I had was five guineas and a Avatch. 
After tea Miss Doll went away with the two 
Americans. 

In the course of the evening several English 
people came in ; I made no secret of who or 
what I was: amongst others were several fair 
traders. I wished to have shipped myself with 
some of them, but although willing to assist 
me, they could not take me on board, as it is 
contrary to their established custom, to take 
any one with them with whom they are un¬ 
acquainted. 


19 th February. About ten o’clock, I went 
to bed, and got up at eight to breakfast not 
feeling the smallest degree of fatigue : my foot 
however was very sore and gave me some 
pain in moving about, but 1 was able to rest 
all day. 

My first concern now Avas, to find the 
speediest method of getting over to England. 
Mrs. Jordan told me, that she knew of a man 
who was going over as boatswain of a brig, 
and proposed sending for him to see if he 
could do any thing for me; I sent out for 
a check shirt, as the shirt I had was nearly 
Avorn out, and had been in Avear a fortnight, 
but not being able to find a good one ready 
made, they bought some cloth and gave it 
to an English girl to make up. In the 
course of the forenoon John the boatswain 
called; he told me it Avas cjuite uncertain 
Avhen they would sail, as they had been obliged 
to unlade their cargo, which was wheat: he 
added, he Avas sure nothing could be done with 
the Captain’s consent, but at the same time 
hinted, that if I was not able to get away be¬ 
fore he sailed, he would endeavour to secrete 
me on board. 

In the evening, Mr. Gross called with 
another person, and asked me to go on 


224 


board with him, as the Supercargo wished 
to see me: as we went along, he told me that 
the person who was with him, was in the same 
situation as myself, having arrived yesterday 
afternoon from Gorcum hospital, and was now 
looking out for a passage to England. We had 
a good deal of talk together; he told me that 
he had been mate of a large transport which 
then lay up in the harbour, and had been 
taken about three months : when the ship was 
taken, he, with some others of the crew, took 
to one of the boats, and after beating about 
fifty-two hours, were driven on shore and made 
prisoners. On telling him in what ship I had 
been taken, we found ourselves almost ac¬ 
quaintances, having lain near each other in 
Oporto. He was also an old shipmate of 
Captain Connolly, who was chief mate of a 
Baltic trader where Webster was second; the 
ship was stranded and the Captain, one An¬ 
thony Sparrow, with the crew, took to the 
boat and shoved off, leaving poor Webster, 
who was employed aloft, to his fate, but Connolly 
would not leave the ship without him, and 
was therefore left also: they passed a most 
dismal night, being nearly frozen to death, and 
expecting the ship to part, as the sea was fly¬ 
ing all over her. In the morning they were 
relieved by the boats from the shore. 


225 


When on board the Friendship, the Super- 
ear go made some inquiries concerning the 
American vessels which were in Dieppe when 
I was there; he was a young Bostonian of 
the name of Hixon, and both he and the Cap¬ 
tain behaved very friendly towards me, asking 
me to call on board as often as I could, and 
offering to do any thing in their power to serve 
me. I stopped to tea, and promised Webster, 
who remained on board for the night, to go 
with him to the house where his companions 
lodged, in the morning', in order to fix on some 
plan for getting aw 7 ay. 

20 ih February . After breakfast, Webster 
called on me, and we went to the house where 
his companions were; it was kept by an Eng¬ 
lish widow of the name of Brown, who told 
us she had sent to a man concerning our pas¬ 
sage, who was to call in the morning, and asked 
what we could afford, proposing £20 each. Some 
consented to this, others to £15, but Webster 
and myself refused to give more than £10 or 
12 guineas: she promised to do all she was able 
to procure our passage on fair terms, and told us 
to be there in the evening to draw out bills 
for our passage-money in case of agreeing 
to liis proposal. As we were in continual fear 
of the police officers, every minute I passed 

Q 


226 


in the house, was in pain, for not a footstep was 
heard near the door, which was always secured, 
that did not make us all fly out of the room, some 
up to the trap-door, and others down to the 
area door. I gladly returned to my lodging, 
where I was without any fear of this kind. 
A person having promised to forward a letter to 
England for me, I wrote and gave him one ; al¬ 
though I considered it at the time as probable, I 
should be across before he was. I spent the even¬ 
ing with Gross and Webster, at Mrs. Ebbs’s, and 
it passed so quickly, that by the time we ar¬ 
rived at Mrs. Brown’s, the skipper was gone, 
having offered to take the six of us for one 
hundred pounds, which we agreed to. 

Wednesday , 2\st February . In the forenoon 

I went to Mrs. Brown, and drew a set of 

■ 

bills for sixteen guineas for my passage; each 
of the others did the same ; Mrs. Lambert 
an English woman, who was to go with us, 
was to pay £12. Mrs. Jordan had advised me to 
stipulate that they should defray all our ex¬ 
penses until landing in England for this sum; 
when I mentioned this, it was immediately 
agreed to, and Thursday night was fixed for 
our departure. I called on Mr. Hixon, who 
asked me to take charge of a letter, which I 
promised to do. 


227 


Thursday, 22 nd February . Having* break- 
lasted, I went to a money changer’s to get rid 
of a Louis for small money, and on my way 
back called at Mrs. Brown’s to see how things 
went on ; here 1 found them all in a complete 
bustle : they had been sending about for me in 
every direction, and said I had not a moment 
to lose, but must set out that instant: seeing, 
however, that none were yet gone,although they 
were all ready, I went to Mrs. Jordan and settled 
for my lodging ; my clothes and a luncheon were 
waiting for me: the latter I pocketed and ran 
back to Mrs. Brown’s, from whence we set out 
in three divisions about eleven o’clock, and 
were joined outside the town by the skipper, 
with three other Dutchmen and two women. 
Every minute we expected to come to the vessel ; 
at length we entered Schiedam, and went to 
an inn where we got some refreshment; a little 
beyond Schiedam we went into a boat, and 
were in hopes that our journey was at an 
end. 


Mrs. Lambert and some others of my compani¬ 
ons were quite tired, all excepting Webster being- 
invalids. Having made our way through the ice 
with some difficulty, we landed on the island of 
Yeselmond; when we had walked a short distance 
with much fatigue to the weaker part of our 

a 2 


228 


troop, the skipper said lie would go forward 
with the two women, and any of us who" 
could keep up, and send a sledge for Mrs, 
Lambert, who w as able w ith the greatest pain 
to proceed but slowly : three of us w ent with 
the skipper, leaving Mrs. Lambert with 
Webster and the other two besides the Dutch¬ 
men, After walking about an hour and a half, 
we came to a village near that of Portugal, 
and were surprised at finding the more fatigued 
party already arrived, having procured a sledge 
for Mrs. Lambert, and travelled by a shorter 
and better road. 

We here took boat again, and having land¬ 
ed on a very narrow isle, walked a few yards 
and embarked on board of another, which land- 
us in half an hour at the distance of half a 
mile from the village of Spykeness, on our 
way to vrhich place we had to pass close to six 
gun boats : the skipper and two women went on 
the top of the bank, talking together quite loud, 
the rest of us kept along the fields at the other 
side, and were told, in case any one spoke to 
us, to say we were Americans. We arrived safe 
at the village, and finding we could not be all 
accommodated at one inn, half the party went 
to another. Immediately we went in, we had 
coffee and tea, and set all hands to work 


*229 


m getting* supper ready as quickly as pos¬ 
sible. As we were enjoying ourselves after 
our fatigues round a fine blazing hearth, the 
Commodore of the gun-boats which we had 
passed, came in: he was a fine smooth-faced 
lad of about 16 or 18 years of age. After tell¬ 
ing some tale which appeared to be very laugh¬ 
able, and taking a dram, he went away. The 
Dutch have a proverb, saying, There was a 
time when tarry trowsers was made a skipper 
that time 1 suppose is not only passed but 
nearly forgotten. 

At ten o’clock we sat down to an excellent 
supper of a dozen or two dishes, and concluded 
it, as usual in this country, with tea and coffee. 
Our beds were in recesses in the wall, which is 
very much the custom both in Holland and 
France; they were very good, but if they had 
not been so, it would have made but little 
difference;—the distance we had walked, and 
tiie rough accommodations we had been used 
to, made any thing at all comfortable pass for 
a luxury. 

0 

Friday , 23 rd February . After breakfast, two 
travelling waggons being ready, our companions 
came from the other inn : they also had fared 
extremely well, but several of the party felt 


230 


worse for their good supper, having been used 
many months, and some of them many years, to a 
prison regimen. The riding was very uneasy, 
and I attempted several times to keep up by 
running behind the waggon, not only to avoid 
the jolting but also to warm myself, as the 
wind was very piercing, blowing over a country 
which formed an entire sheet of ice and snow ; 
but the roughness of the ground prevented me 
from keeping pace with them. 

„ * I 

At noon we arrived at a farm house on the 
sea side, at the distance of one league from 
Helvoetsluys: here the skipper left us to our¬ 
selves, having ordered the people of the house 
to supply us with whatever we asked for, and 
said he would go to Helvoet, from thence cross 
over to Goree, where his house was, and send 
the vessel, in which we were to go over, for us. 
We dined in company with seven boatmen, 
two French soldiers who were billeted at the 
house, and the family, which consisted of the 
farmer, his wife, three sons, and two daughters; 
after dinner we had coffee; about five o’clock 
we had tea, and after supper, which consisted 
chiefly of cabbages thinly sliced and boiled in 
vinegar, we had coffee again. 


There was but one bed for the six of us : this 


231 


was built against the wall, as is usual, and as 
it was not very wide, we had to lie heads and 
points, that is, three heads one way and three 
the other; so that each of us had the feet of 
one or two companions in his face. Mrs. Lam¬ 
bert and the farmer’s wife we stowed away in 
the closet or bed adjoining ours, and the re¬ 
mainder of the family, with the boatmen, began 
to make merry as soon as we had turned in, 
and kept it up with hot gin and water until 
daylight. 

Saturday , 24 tli February . When we arose, 
we found that the daughters had had no sleep, 
as it was their bed which we had occupied : 
therefore, we agreed, in case of having to remain 
at the house another night, to let them have their 
bed, and to sleep about the fire or in the loft. At 
eight o’clock we had teawith bread, butter, eggs, 
&c. and about eleven tea again, without any thing 
else. About noon, a French officer and about 
twenty soldiers, with two or three waggons, 
stopped at the door, and came in to get a 
dram and warm themselves, as it was intensely 
cold; when they entered we made certain that 
we were lost, for what could be more natural, than 
that an officer, on seeing half a dozen English 
sailors seated round a Dutchman’s fire side, should 
arrest them ? We each wished our companions 


232 


out of the room; but as the people of the house 
dicl not know there was any occasion for con¬ 
cealment with respect to us, it would not have 
been prudent to leave the room abruptly : one or 
two went out of the back door ; and I went out at 
the front towards Helvoetsluys, as the soldiers 
were going in the opposite direction. I kept 
walking on pretty briskly until the intruders 
left the house, by which time I had walked 
about a mile, but on turning about, I found the 
wind, which was now right in my teeth, blow 
so very strong and cold, that it was with great 
difficulty I was able to get forward : the road 
was good, but much exposed, being on the top 
of a dyke: on arriving at the house quite out of 
breath, and half perished with the wind, they 
told me that no one had spoken a word to 
them. 

When night came, some were seating them¬ 
selves round the hie, and others were retiring 
to the loft, on which the man asked our reason for 
doing so: we said, it was to let his daughters have 
their bed: on this he began abusing his wife and 
daughters at a great rate, and said if they could 
not find beds they ought not to have taken us 
in. We interfered at first, but finding the dis¬ 
pute get very hot, and seeing that the only 
way of settling it would be by obeying the 


233 


old man, we stowed ourselves away as we had 
done the last night. The daughters abused 
the old man as much as he did them, which 
surprised us much, until they informed us 
he was only their father-in-law. 

Sunday , 2 5th February . During the morning 
we were anxiously watching a vessel which 
was on her way across from the island of 
Goree : about ten o’clock we were much pleased 
to find we were to embark on board of her 
for England; the wind being then contrary, 
we were to cross over to the island, and wait 
there for a fair wind. We were soon ready tp 
embark, the only baggage being a bundle of 
Mrs. Lambert’s; we were not less willing, as 
the two last days had passed very heavily; 
nor did we consider ourselves very safe, 
whilst living under the same roof, and eating 
at the same table with two French soldiers who 
daily went to Helvoet. We were not long in 
running over to the opposite shore, where we 
lay until it was dark, at the entrance of a 
canal which led to the village of Middleharnis, 
at the distance of a mile from us. At sunset 
some horses were brought, which towed us to 
the village: we were not allowed to shew our¬ 
selves on deck, but the pleasure of being one® 
pore afloat made up for this inconvenience, 


204 


When it became dark, we went two at a time 
to the skipper’s house, which, although it con¬ 
sisted only of one room, appeared, from the 
cleanliness and regularity of every thing in it, 
rather to be kept for shew than to be in con¬ 
stant use. We could not tell what had become 
of the skipper and his mate with their fair 
companions, whom we expected to have met 
with here, but they had not been heard of since 
leaving us. The wife, with the assistance of 
some of her relations, soon prepared us a supper 
of hot milk with sugar, cinnamon, and other 
spices. About nine o’clock, we went with 
Keys, the skipper’s brother, to the inn where 
beds had already been bespoken for us; when 
we came to the door, he wished us good night, 
and walked away. AVe were surprised at this, but 
went in, and having called for something to drink, 
intended to retire at once : the other guests, how¬ 
ever, having finished setting down their names, 
and giving an account of where they came from, 
where they were going to, and how long they 
intended to remain in that place, &c. &c. we 
were desired to set down the same particulars: 
this embarrassed us greatly, but we complied 
with as good a grace as we could, and wrote 
down for Webster—Web mate, for myself— 
Keith 2nd mate, and for the other four, false names, 
belonging to different ports in America. When 


235 


this was over, we were alarmed at finding it 
was necessary to go with it to the Burgomaster. 
Those whose names were on the list before 
ours, having confirmed the account they gave 
of themselves by their passports, we were call¬ 
ed on for the same documents: we said, 
they were with the skipper at Helvoetsluys, and 
represented ourselves as Americans who had 
been wrecked, and were now on our way to 
Flushing, at which place we heard there were 
several American vessels. He did. not appear to 
believe our tale, although he neither troubled 
us with questions, nor spoke angrily; a young 
man going out with a lanthorn, the whisper 
passed amongst us that he was gone for the 
guard: we knew they had but five soldiers in 
the place, but fearing these would bring con¬ 
stables with them, we did not think ourselves 
secure. 

We scarcely knew whether to remain or run 
away. I kept close to the door and watched 
my companions’ looks and motions as narrowly 
as possible, well knowing that if any one went 
away, the only security for the others would 
be in following immediately. The young man 
who went out, returned in about a quarter of 
an hour, and we were soon after told to go to 
the inn, but that we must return at eight o’clock 


236 


the next morning*; even this short respite em 
couraged us not a little: as we went towards 
the inn, one of the lodgers told us that the 
Burgomaster thought we were Englishmen ; 
we endeavoured to persuade him that was im¬ 
possible. On arriving at the inn, we imme¬ 
diately went to bed. 

Monday,2Qth February .—Webster and I slept 
together, and got up at a very early hour, quite 
tired of lying without sleep, which the thoughts 
of what eight o’clock would bring to pass had 
quite deprived us of, although not a word had 
passed between us on the subject until now, 
each being unwilling to appear more appre¬ 
hensive of danger than the other ; but, whilst 
dressing, having mutually confessed our fears, 
and owned that the more we had reflected on it, 
the less able we were to determine on what step 
it would be best to take, we went into the room 
where our companions slept, and asked what 
they thought about it: all agreed in thinking 
it was most probable we should be arrested, but 
not being able to get away, it was settled to 
go exactly at the time fixed on, and confirm 
all that we had said last night; we also made 
up a regular story, fixing all the particulars con^ 
cerning which it was most likely we should be 
questioned, as followsWe sailed from Bos- 


2S/ 

ton the 2d of November, onboard of the brig 1 
Young Hector, Capt. John Brown Smith* 
bound to Biga, with a cargo of cotton, coffee, 
sugar, &c. and had been wrecked about eight 
o’clock in the morning of 5th December, on 
Heligoland, where we got on shore in the 
boat, without saving any thing belonging to us, 
remained there about six weeks; the Captain 
and two men went to England, but the re¬ 
mainder of us having lost our protections* 
preferred coming to Holland on board of a 
fishing vessel, hoping to meet with some 
American vessels in which we should be able to 
get employment. 

We anxiously expected eight o’clock—it 
wanted only a few minutes when Keys came 
in, whom we were rejoiced to see, and 
told him of the danger which threatened 
us, asking, what was to be done: he directly 
laughed at our apprehensions, and told us not to 
go, saying, it was nothing: the careless man¬ 
ner in which he spoke of our apprehensions gave 
us great ease, as w 7 e knew they were interested 
in our safety by the expences they had already 
incurred on our account. 

After breakfast I went and took a walk about 

the village with some of the people belonging 

« 

to our sloop* As we were in the common sitting 


238 


room of the inn, every one who came in saw us; 
most of the men of the village had frequently 
been in England, and many of the women and 
children spoke a little English. One man who 
came in, asked me what part we intended to 
land at; I told him Flushing ; on which he said, 
oh,you need not be afraid of me, it is only four¬ 
teen days since I left Harwich. Do you go to 
Harwich, or Gravesend, or Yarmouth, or 
Dover?” I told him, I was not sure which. 
He asked me several other things, but finding 
that I cared not to trust him, he asked me to 
walk to his house : I did so, and when we came 
there, he pointed out to me many thing's about 
it which were English; he also shewed me an 
English license, which completely removed all 
my doubts concerning him, and I answered his 
enquiries as well as I was able. Two or three 
young women came in to drink coffee with his 
vrow, who entertained us with gingerbread 
and sugared bread and butter; afterwards, the 
skipper shewed me a letter addressed to a 
mercantile house in London, and asked me to 
take charge of it: I promised to do so ; and he, 
assuring me if it was in his power to render me 
any service he would do it with pleasure, in¬ 
vited me to call on him whenever I passed 
near the house. 1 was extremely glad to have 
made such an acquaintance, as I purposed taking 
refuge with him, in case the Burgomaster should 


239 


be likely to trouble us. The day passed without 
hearing 1 any news of the skipper, or receiving 
trouble from any one. Webster and 1 went 
about the country, and through the village with 
Dutchmen who behaved very well to us : the 
others of our party seldom quitted the fire side, 
as they were invalids. 

Tuesday, 27th February .—After breakfast, I 
took a walk with two or three young Dutchmen 
to Sommelsdyke, a neat village at the distance 
of three miles from Middleharnis, with which 
place it communicates by means of a canal. 
Whilst walking about the village, we met the 
Burgomaster of Middleharnis, with two other 
magistrates: we bowed to them, which they 
returned, and passed without taking any further 
notice. Being returned to the inn, 1 found our 
skipper had arrived, and he soon sent word by 
Webster that he w ished his arrival to be kept 
secret, but it was too late, as the people of the 
inn had heard of it, and said, we should now be 
able to shew the Burgomaster our passports \ 
this renewed our perplexity. In the course of 
the afternoon, the skipper sent his brother Keys 
to tell us we were to go on board that night, 
as the Burgomaster had said, he should be 
obliged to arrest us if we were in the village the 
next morning. I told the m^n whose letter l 


240 


was to take charge of, that he had better give 
it to me at once : he said he would, and went 
home for it, but did not return. When it be- 
Came dark, we went on board, and were 
towed down the canal, from whence we imme¬ 
diately made sail. 

Wednesday , 28 th February .— We continued 
working about until day-light, at which time the 
flood-tide making, they ran her on the mud, and 
made fast to the piles, intending to land us at 
high water, and wait for a fair wind. Helvoet- 
sluys was about twelve miles to the N. E. of us, 
so that we considered ourselves clear of all 
danger. In the afternoon, the people of the 
vessel being all below, playing at cards, I was 
walking the deck alone, and observed two 
fishing schuyts come in from sea: when they 
were abreast of Helvoet, which was in a very 
short time, as they had a fine fresh gale, a boat 
went on board of them, and, having remained 
a few minutes, left them and pulled towards 
Goree, as though they intended to land; but 
finding they passed the point, and were pull¬ 
ing towards us, I told the Dutchmen of it, 
and asked them to see if it was a man-of- 
war’s boat. As soon as they saw her, they be¬ 
came so frightened, they could not tell us what 
to do ; they first told us to hide ourselves, and 


24 i 


then, before we were all hid, said, that would 
not do, but we must all sit down, and say that 
we were Americans going to Flushing. In a 
few minutes the boat hoisted a Dutch flag, with 
the words ‘convoy en licence* in it, and then 
boarded us : there were a surveyor, coxswain, 
and six men in her, all unarmed. Before they 
reached us, each of us had got an axe, an iron 
bolt, a large knife, or some such weapon, and 
placed it at hand, in case we should find it neces¬ 
sary to make any resistance. They examined 
the well and every place about the deck for 
smuggled goods, and, on going below for the 
same purpose, asked, who we were : they said, 
we were only a few American sailors going to 
join a ship at Flushing. 1 now went on deck 
with another or two, to hear what the surveyor 
thought of us: he asked the skipper for his 
licence to carry us : he had none; neither had 
he permission to leave the harbour, without 
which, even fishing boats are not allowed to put 
to sea. He asked for our passports, and I shewed 
mine, which appeared to satisfy him, and he 
was going away; but Webster said he heard 
one of the boat’s crew, who was an Irishman, 
tell him, he was sure we were English: this 
greatly displeased two of our comrades who 
were Irish; they asked how Webster came to 
know it was not an Englishman or American: 

R 


242 


,{ oh ! but he is a bad fellow,” said they, “ so he 
must be an Irishman.” Whilst we remained to¬ 
gether they never forgave this, but would fre- 
_ quently abuse that rascally Irishman. The sur¬ 
veyor asked the skipper some more questions, 
and, at length, said, he must carry the vessel to 
Helvoetsluys. We determined not to go, and 
directly the skipper came below, shewed him 
the arms we had prepared, and said, we would 
drive the rascals overboard; but he immediately 
begged us not to do any thing of the kind, 
as if we even did get away safe, neither 
himself, nor any one belonging to the vessel, 
would ever be able to return to their homes: 
he said also, that it would detain us only a day or 
two, which would be of no consequence, as there 
was no appearance of a fair wind at present, 
and that all they wanted was, to frighten him out 
of some money, for they had asked him twice 
if he had any on board. We told him, if a few 
hundred guilders would content them, to give 
it, and we would repay him, as we did not like 
the thoughts of trusting ourselves in a place 
occupied by French troops. We felt the justice 
of his first reason, and therefore agreed not to 
use any violence. The vessel being afloat, they 
made sail, and stood towards Helvoet; when 
near the entrance of the harbour, we were all 
sent below, and a midshipman of the guard ship 


245 


boarded us and made minutes of our answers . 
we saw that he supposed us to be English. 
Before he left the vessel, we were alongside of 
the quay, and a French military officer with 
mustachios about six inches long, came on board, 
and enquired where we were going to, and what 
countrymen we were. On our replying that we 
were Americans, he called to those on deck and 
said, “ no, no, these are not Englishmen, they 
s are all Americans,” and then pretending to 
believe all that we said, and to be our friend, 
he asked several questions, particularly of 
Madam, but, from his double-faced appear¬ 
ance, we merely gave direct answers. When 
he was going, he said, “ never mind, you will be 
sent away again to-morrow.” We expected to 
be searched immediately for papers, and the 
skipper, who had given several letters for 
England, together with a copy of our bills^ to 
Mrs. Lambert, told her to slip them down be¬ 
tween the timbers of the vessel, which she did. I 
was anxious to get rid of my map, as I intended, 
at any rate, to endeavour to remain with the 
party, imprisonment in Holland appearing hap¬ 
piness, compared with being returned to Cam- 
brai, from whence it was more than probable 
I should be sent to Bitche: for this purpose I 
tore several pieces off, some of which I chew¬ 
ed, and gave other pieces to my companions 

R 2 


244 


to get rid of in the same manner; one of them 
asked for all 1 had of it, saying, he would soon 
finish it: on my giving it to him, he clapped it 
between two pieces of the turf which composed 
the fire : the smoke it created alarmed us, and 
not without cause, for some of those who were 
on deck began snuffing about, and said, they 
are burning papers below, on which the mid¬ 
shipman jumped down, but was too late to 
see any of the ashes; and we told him the smoke 
was occasioned by turning the turf. 

The vessel being secured to the quay, one of 
the custom-house people was left on board, and 
a sentry placed over us, with orders not to allow 
any person either to come on board, or to go 
ashore. The skipper informed us that the 
officer with long mustachios was commandant of 
the French troops, and, that on coming on deck, 
he said we were English spies. Mrs. Lam¬ 
bert was allowed to lodge on shore, but being 
insulted at every house at which she inquired 
for lodgings, by the French officers who were 
quartered there, she returned on board in the 
course of an hour or two, although we had but a 
very miserable hole, not above eight feet long, 
and ten broad, by four and a half in height, in 
which a turf fire was kept constantly burning, 
and twelve of us had no other place to put 
our heads in. 


245 


Thursday , ls£ March .—At ten o’clock two 
sentries arrived to convey us by turns to the 
custom-house, which was only across the street. 
Webster went first, and returning in about half 
an hour, 1 went next. As we passed each other 
he said, we were wrecked the 20th January: 
this made me fear that, by altering the dates 
fixed on, my tale would differ from his ; but I 
began calculating a new set of dates as fast as 
I could. On entering the room, I found an old 
gentleman sitting at a writing table, with an 
interpreter at his side; the latter held a paper 
in his hand, which he frequently looked at, and 
then at me: we bid each other good morning, 
and they very politely desired me to be seated, 
but before I had time to do so, the interpreter 
said to the old gentleman, in Dutch, ‘ this is 
he.’ As I was then in a humour to face any 
thing, it rather surprised, but did not in the 
least confuse me; for, supposing myself to be 
in much less danger of detection than the others, 
on account of the distance 1 was from my 
prison, and confiding in my protection, I had 
been encouraging my companions all the morn¬ 
ing, shewing them at times, the manner in 
which I intended to go in, and repeating several 
saucy questions, which I would put to the 
magistrates, and impertinent answers which I 
would make to their enquiries, to make them 


246 


see how little I cared, and make them believe 
me to be an independent American, beyond the 
reach of their authority. The magistrate had 
before him a paper with twenty-eight questions, 
and Webster’s answers; by means of the in¬ 
terpreter, he proceeded to put the same questions 
to me, and wrote my answers on another sheet. 
When l replied to the first, that my name was 
John Keith, the interpreter said, <c I think not 
I replied, “ it is and he said, “ is not your name 
Gordon ?” On my denying it, he said, u I think 
“ it is, you had better own to it at once.” 

* 

“ Where do you belong to ?” 

“ To Brunswick, in America.” 

“ Have you any papers ?” 

u I have my regular protection. ' 

(< Let me see it ?” 

I produced it, and was glad of the chance 
it offered me of getting a peep at the paper he 
held; I saw enough only to convince me it was 
the description of two deserters from a French 
prison, and one of the names, I fancied, was 
Gordon: the other I desired ardently to make 


247 


out, in the hope of its being poor Capeland. 
Having compared the two descriptions together, 
and found the American and the French one to 
agree, as to height, complexion, &c. he said, 
more positively, “ I think your name is Gordon, 
Luke Gordon, is it not ?” On this the old gentle¬ 
man said to him, in Dutch, it cannot be he, 
as he has his papers, at which the interpreter 
smiled, saying it was nothing at all, and con¬ 
tinued pressing me to confess my name at once, 
adding, it would be better for me ; but I, being 
tired of the subject, interrupted him, and asked 
very hastily, “ confess! what ? If you don’t be¬ 
lieve me, ask my comrades what my name is, 
they will tell you.” He then asked if I did not 
come from France: I said I did not. 

u Were you never in France?” 

* ( Never.” 

u Were you ever in England?” 

u No, but I have been in Ireland.” 

He then proceeded with the other questions, 
answers to all of which were quite ready, having 
been fixed on before : the dates only were found 
to differ three or four days from Webster’s^ 


, l 


248 

but, I said, as it was merely from memory, I 
could not be positive of the exactness of any, 
excepting* the day of our being wrecked, which 
was too remarkable to be easily forgotten. 

The interpreter frequently looked very 
stedfastly at me, and then referred to the de¬ 
scription. I endeavoured to appear quite un¬ 
concerned, and, I believe, succeeded pretty well; 
from having repealed my tale so often, I fre¬ 
quently imagined myself to be the person I 
pretended : frequently, when on my journey, 
questions were put to me, which I have an¬ 
swered without remembering* that I was only 

O v 

an impostor. 

Having answered the twenty-eight questions, 
he said, “is it all true?” I replied, that it was. 
He thenasked, “ will you swear to it? ” Supposing 
him to be about to administer an oath, I stam¬ 
mered ; there was not an instant of time for 
thought, but an hundred flew across my imagi¬ 
nation: Could I perjure myself? Could I betray 
my companions ? Could I have the face to 
acknowledge that all I had been saying daring 
the last hour was falsehood? Would they consider 
it as an apology, if I said, they were white lies 
which did hurt to nobody? What a fool I 
thought myself for telling the first! What a 


249 

coward for denying' my name, country, and 
religion for any one ! 

Thinking that I had not understood him, he 
said, “if it is required, you can give your oath that 
this is all true?” “Certainly,” I said, very glad 
to be relieved from my perplexity. 1 endeavoured 
to regain my protection, but they would not 
return it, saying, it would be sent to Amsterdam, 
together with other papers relating to us. As I 
returned on board, Phillips came on shore; in 
passing, 1 said, “ remember my name is John 
Keith,—think of Admiral Keith.” Having told 
my companions that I was discovered, and 
expected to be ordered away to my old quar¬ 
ters at Cambrai, they supposed me to be joking, 
but assuring them that I was not, they were quite 
surprized and alarmed for their own safety, not 
doubting that their descriptions would be found, 
as mine had arrived from so great a distance* 
I told them frequently, in case of being asked 
my name, to say it was John Keith: this 
caution was necessary, as I had always g'one by 
my own name. Phillips being returned, said, 
they had not asked him my name, but if they had, 
he could not have informed them rightly. The 
person who was examined next, was asked, 
and told them John Keith. Mrs. Lambert was 
examined in the afternoon, and behaved very 


2o0 


well, in confirming*, as well as she could, all 
that we had said about being on our way to¬ 
wards Flushing. 

Friday , 2d March .—We still remained close 
prisoners on board the schuyt, and expected to 
be so until an answer was received from Am¬ 
sterdam. Webster and I proposed to each 
other all the methods we could think of for 
escaping, but the town being fortified and 
garrisoned by 800 French troops, the only one 
which gave the least chance of success, was, to 
take a boat from amongst several which lay 
close to us, and dropping down the harbour, 
haul her over the boom which closed the en¬ 
trance : knowing that the Dutch and French 
sentries seldom load their muskets, we did not 
apprehend any danger from the guard ships 
close to which we should have to pass. On 
enquiring of the people of our vessel, how the 
boom was secured, and whether it was flat or 
round, they said, it was chained to two posts, 
in a manner which allowed it to rise and fall 
with the tide, and that every side was stuck 
full of iron spikes, about two feet long ; this 
information quite cured us of scheming for the 
present. 

J considered my situation so desperate that I 


251 


said, if any' one would enter in company with 
me, 1 would enter for a privateer; the only one 
in the harbour lay astern of us, and Phillips and 
myself applied to the person who was in charge 
of her to ship us, but he said, they did not want 
any hands, as she would not be fitted out for 
some weeks. One resource only remained, which 
was, to enter for the gun-boats ; the chance of 
being in actual service on board of them was 
much less than in a privateer, but as it would 
have been extremely difficult to escape from 
them, neither of us gave it a thought. 

An Englishman came alongside the vessel, 
and telling us that he belonged to the gun¬ 
boats, advised us to write to the American 
consul at Rotterdam, whose direction he gave 
us; he added, that having a protection, and the 
time being nearly expired for which he had 
shipped, he was in the hope of soon being dis¬ 
charged. Having talked over his advice of 
writing to the consul, it was agreed to do so, 
as it could be productive of no harm, and would 
serve to talk to the magistrates about. We 
recounted the same dismal tale which we had 
hitherto made use of, and requested him to inter¬ 
fere in our behalf, secretly wishing, at the same 
time, that he would not give himself any trouble 
about us, knowing that he would readily dis¬ 
cover us to be impostors. 


252 


Saturday , 3f? March .—About eight o’clock, 
the commandant came to the quay with several 
officers and soldiers; a serjeant and six men 
were ordered on board to take charge of us 
to Dort, at which place we were to be ex¬ 
amined by the general: two days allowance of 
bread and cheese was put on board for us, and 
they were ordered not to allow more than one 
prisoner to come on deck at a time. The 
people belonging to the vessel were to work 
her under the direction of a pilot, for which 
they were to have liberty to go ashore at plea¬ 
sure. Our situation was now truly uncomforta* 
hie, twenty of us being on board, the greater part 
of whom were obliged to remain day and night 
in a small smoky cabin. At ten we got under 
weigh, and found the order which kept us below 
to be strictly executed. At four o’clock, the 
tide being down, we stopped at a custom-house 
station: here Mrs. Lambert, with the skipper 
and two or three of the soldiers, went ashore to 
tea; those who remained on board, had for sup¬ 
per, a large dish of paste, which we relished very 
well with treacle and butter, and it was consi¬ 
dered by the Dutchmen to be a treat, burgou, that 
is, oatmeal porridge, having been our usual supper, 
and potatoes our dinner; we used also to have 
coffee with bread and butter twice a day. The 
French soldiers’ rations consisting only of byead 


25:3 


ftftd cheese, we made them partake of whatever 
we had : none of us pretended to understand a 
word of French, therefore they talked together 
without any restraint. I found by their dis¬ 
course, that we were to be tried on suspicion 
of being spies in the service of England, 
Those who had been on shore, returned about 
eight o’clock, and in the course of the night 
we got under weigh. 

Sunday , 4 th March. At six in the morning, 
we arrived along-side of the wharf at Dort, and 
again had liberty to be on deck at pleasure. 
As a number of people were sauntering about, 
we soon became the centre of attraction to the 
idlers, several of whom spoke very good Eng¬ 
lish : amongst others one, who appeared to be 
a respectable merchant, having inquired con¬ 
cerning our situation, informed us there was 
a vice-consul in the place, whom he advised 
us to send for: we immediately drew up a 
letter in the same terms as that which we 
„ had sent to the Consul at Rotterdam, and 
gave it to this person who promised to forward 
it immediately. 

At ten o’clock, the General with several 
other officers came to us, and asked a few 
questions: he was not out of sight when the 


254 


Consul arrived, whom we were glad to find to be 
Dutchman: having* given him a slight sketch 
of our ill treatment, we hurried him away after 
the General, whom he overtook, and conversed 
with for some time, but on returning, said, it 
was not in the General’s power to release us, 
as we were on our way to the head quarters at 
JBois-le-Duc. The Consul could not do any 
thing for us, but said, if we called there on 
our return, he would see that we were properly 
furnished with good passports, and get us pro¬ 
tections from the Consul at Amsterdam. At 
noon, the guard was relieved by another of 
equal force, who were to proceed with us to 
head quarters; our voyage was to be renewed 
at daylight next morning. In the afternoon, 
the skipper came on board; and having taken 
every thing out of his clothes-bag, put on all 
those that were worth carrying. We said to 
him, “ you are going to run away,” but he, quite 
flurried, replied, “ oh no, I not go, indeed, I not 
go.” We told him that we knew he was, and 
wished him success, base a trick as it was 
to leave us in the lurch, who came here only 
on his account, and were telling lies by the 
score in the hope of saving the vessel for him, 
as we were quite certain of being sent to prison. 
Keys came soon after and did the same: we 
asked him if they were not going to run away: 


255 


lie said, yes, they were, but not now; and told 
us it was their intention to run the vessel a- 
ground on her passage up the river, and thus 
give all hands a fair start. We replied, that would 
be acting like men, but knowing they tiad no 
such intention, told him, they did quite right 
to take care of themselves, but that we thought 
his brother-in-law, the skipper, was a stupid 
fellow, fit only to go a-fishing all his days. 

The others who belonged to the vessel, soon 
came on the same errand; but the signal had 
been already made to plunder, and their tobacco, 
warm-stockings, &c. were already disposed oL 
We could not help feeling for some of the losers, 
as one was a good natured deaf old man, who 
frequently amused us with his remarks on Eng¬ 
land, and the other was an honest orphan lad. 
It became a droll sight, to observe the manner 
in which our companions were rigged, with 
the fishermen’s clothes over their own; some 
marked frying-pans, blankets, pillows, &c. 
which they intended carrying to prison with 
them; Webster and Phillips contented them¬ 
selves with getting a few things they were in 
want of, such as shoes and stockings: as my 
clothes were better than any of those which 
were going about, the only prizes which I 
made, were the card of the compass, and a 


256 


spoon, both of which I knew to be useful ar-» 
tides in a prison, where we soon expected to 
be. As soon as we found the vessel was aban¬ 
doned by her crew, the sea-stock of pork was 
added to our dinner, and being determined to 
leave the vessel as bare as possible, the coffee 
was scarcely off the fire, before a mess of paste 
was ready to succeed it. Having plenty of good 
Schiedam gin on board, the evening did not 
pass away drily; some amongst us would have 
been drunk greater part of the time we were 
together, had it not been for Webster, who alone 
was able to keep up the appearance of decency; 
two of the party being of his crew, and the others 
would have been unable to oppose him in case 
it had come to extremes. I remained on deck 
until midnight, thinking I ought to get over¬ 
board and have a swim for it, which, from the 
darkness of the night, I could have done with¬ 
out much risk of being discovered, but the cold¬ 
ness of the weather, the breadth of the river, 
the rapidity of the stream, and more than all, the 
want of a companion to advise with, prevent¬ 
ed me. 

Monday , 5th March. At daylight a pilot 
came on board; but after waiting some time, 
and finding that the people of the vessel did 
not make their appearance, he concluded that 


i 


257 


they had deserted and went to make his report. 
I now indulged hopes of being detained here 
another night, and proposed to Webster that 
we should be off together, which he readily 
agreed to, and said, he would have gone last 
night had he seen an opportunity. About 
eleven o’clock the pilot came down, to our 
great disappointment, with two or three other 
boatmen, and we proceeded up the river. Tea, 
coffee, and gin alone were in demand this morn¬ 
ing, the effects of last night’s surfeit not being 
over, but the lost appetites returning in the 
afternoon, some potatoes were got ready. 

About four o’clock, the wind being too light 
to admit of our proceeding any further against 
the stream, which was pretty strong, they 
shoved the vessel along the left side of the 
river by means of poles, and entered a small 
creek for the night: when 1 went on deck, 
which we were still allowed to do, but only 
one at a time, I was quite rejoiced to find that we 
were in such an excellent place for escaping; 
being in the midst of the gardens of a village 
with one side of the vessel touching the shore, 
and on the other just room for a boat to pass, 
i took particular notice of the way the soldiers 
turned to go into the village. Having satisfied 
my eyes with this delightful sight, which pro- 

s 


258 


misecl so fair for us, I went down and talked 
with the others about getting away : it was 
the chief object of each person’s thoughts, but 
appeared difficult to be accomplished by all: 
the most likely means we could devise for 
giving a chance to the whole party, was to 
make the soldiers drunk. We had not been 
here an hour, before the vessel was mobbed 
by a party of Dutchmen, on account of one 
soldier having entered a house and taken away 
some pocket-handkerchiefs and other clothes. 
As there were not any troops in the village, we 
hoped they would proceed to extremities, and 
thus give us a chance of being off in a scuffle; 
but on receiving back the stolen goods they 
retired: the serjeant and one of the soldiers 
were very angry with the robber, and appeared 
very much hurt at the disgrace such actions 
would bring on the regiment. 

We prepared a mess of porridge, and passed the 
glass about pretty briskly : the soldiers had been 
gorged with the burgou, and this swimming 
with butter and treacle, gave them a fresh re¬ 
lish for the gin, with which considering* all 
things, they had hitherto been pretty mode¬ 
rate. Our meat was scarcely finished before 
most of the soldiers were asleep in their seats, 
and two or three of them soon became very sick. 


259 


We put the kettle on, and continued to pass the 
glass about and sing songs, not in the most 
gentle strain, in order to drown the noise which 
Webster made in tearing down a partition, 
which we pretended was for want of other fuel. 
Meeting with some obstruction, he was obliged 
to go on deck in order to clear it: as the sentry 
was sitting under the hatch it was necessary to 
awaken him, on which he went up, and follow¬ 
ed close behind. Having waited a few minutes, 
and not hearing him at work, Sparks went up, 
and returning’ in a few minutes, said that 
Webster was off: this rather alarmed me, but 
to keep things quiet, I said be was only bid 
in the sail, so that, when the hole was com¬ 
pleted, another person might be on deck and 
assist him in seem ing the sentry, without noise, 
whilst the others of us came up the hatchway, 
and crept through the hole: this was part of 
the plan we had formed, but wishing to make sure 
that it was right so far, I went up and felt 
about the sail, but nobody was there. E con¬ 
tinued walking to and fro the deck, pretending 
to be very sick, in the hope that the sentry would 
be tired of waiting in the cold. In about a 
quarter of an hour, I heard some person moving 
about amongst the boats in the creek, and soon 
after, a boat with one man in it shoved past us, 
touching the vessel, as there was scarcely room 

S 2 


260 


for her. I strongly suspected it to be Webster* 
but the night was so dark I could not distin¬ 
guish any thing about him to confirm my sus¬ 
picion, although he was not two yards distant 
from me. The sentry also looked very atten¬ 
tively at the boat; I hem’d several times, and 
called “Jem,” but he continued to shove past 
without making the slightest signal. 1 could have 
jumped in with ease and have been out of reach of 
the sentry, as I well knew his musket was not 
loaded, but thought that if he turned out to be a 
Dutchman, I should not only get into disgrace, but 
also be the occasion of making the soldiers more 
vigilant. Finding that the sentry was not in¬ 
clined to leave me on deck alone, but was 
seating himself on a sail, I went below and in¬ 
formed my comrades that Webster was off, 
and I was almost certain that he had shoved 
past me in a boat. There was a terrible mess 
below with the sick soldiers : one or two of 
our own party also were quite surfeited. 

The sentry came down in a few minutes and 
was putting on the hatch, when I jumped up, and 
putting my hand to my mouth as though I 
was just taken sick, went up. He did not 
follow, but stood with his head above the deck, 
and I sat down on the side of the ship nearest the 
shore, hiccuping and groaning enough for a very 


261 


sick person. I asked for a cup of warm water, 
which being given to me, a Swedish lad came 
up, and asked me how I was: I went a 
little way forward, when, being out of sight of 
the sentry, he got over the side ; between my 
groans I said a word or two to persuade him 
not to go yet, as I was very sorry to leave 
Phillips behind, but being inspired with Schie¬ 
dam courage, he continued to go. One of his 
feet being already on the land, it was time for 
me to be off, although the sentry’s eyes were 
not two yards distant from me. I lifted my 
feet over, and was disengaged from the vessel 
before the Swede, who got over where the 
vessel’s side was at a little distance from the 
shore. I took a few long strides very gently, 
and then trotted up the garden, my heart fly¬ 
ing about much quicker than my legs. Near 
the house was a large white gate, which led 
into the street; as I opened this, I saw some 
person was opening the door of the house. 
Being now 7 on the high road, I turned to the 
left, and walked the distance of a mile very 
fast, when meeting with a watchman I got 
my knife ready to defend myself with, and 
asked if I was in the right road for Rotterdam; 
he said, I was: he was an old man, and ap¬ 
peared to be surprised at my travelling so late, 
but I gave him no time to make inquiries. 


262 


I now considered myself to be out of reach of 
the guard, as 1 knew few of them would be 
able to keep up with me at walking a long 
distance, as they were incumbered with arms, 
&c. I supposed, however, that a dispatch would 
be sent at daylight to Dort, and another to 
Rotterdam, cautioning the police and military 
to look out for us* I therefore was anxious to 
arrive before noon, knowing intelligence could 
not be received before that time. 

Tuesday , 6th March . I continued walking 
very fast, and at one in the morning found 
myself opposite to Dort: as there was a turning 
to the river with a hand post, I supposed it 
pointed out the road to Rotterdam, and there¬ 
fore went that way, but finding that it led 
only to the Dort ferry, J had to return, and con¬ 
tinued my journey through the village of Pa- 
pendrecht. I had scarcely passed half a dozen 
houses, when a sentry, being awakened I sup¬ 
pose by my footsteps, called out, half asleep 
and half awake,“ Qui vit?” I said, “good nacht 
Mynheer,” and continued walking on. Sur¬ 
prized and perplexed as I was at this inter¬ 
ruption from a French sentry when I so little 
expected it, I was thinking in what manner it 
would be possible to avoid passing through the 
neighbouring villages, when suddenly another 


263 


sentry quitting' his box, came out into the road, 
and as I approached, challenged me with, “ Qui 
vit?” when I came up to him, I answered as I 
had done before, and continued walking on : 
having got a few steps from him, he said some¬ 
thing which I did not understand, and therefore 
paid no attention to it; he called after me, but 
being at the distance of some yards, I con¬ 
sidered myself as clear of him, if there w r as no 
other sentry to stop me. 

I was very glad to find myself clear of the 
village, and almost afraid to pass through any 
other, but as it was not possible to avoid them 
here, as I had done in France by passing round, 
I was obliged to keep my road, but at the same 
time went through them very cautiously step 
with as little noise as possible. 

At three o’clock, 1 came to another finger 
post, and not being able to discern the letters, 
went in the direction it pointed, which I sup¬ 
posed to be to the Rotterdam ferry : finding 
the boats chained, and no person awake, I re¬ 
turned to the high road, and continued to walk 
on, as I thought the greater distance I got 
from the vessel before daylight, the safer I 
should be. 


26 4 


The morning being rainy, I met with no 
person until six o’clock, when on inquiring I 
found that I was going towards Schoonhoven, 
and that it was necessary for me to return to 
the last ferry I had passed; I immediately 
turned back, and putting my best foot fore¬ 
most, arrived at the ferry by eight o’clock: 
whilst the boat was getting ready, I washed 
myself, and ate a slice of bread and butter; 
the master of the house asked me several civil 
questions, and abused the French for making 
things dear. He inquired if I was an English¬ 
man, I believe without any bad intention, but 
not wishing to put unnecessary confidence in 
any one, I said, I belonged to the American 
Brig, Friendship, which was now at Rotter¬ 
dam, and that I was returning to her after 
spending a few days with a friend at Schoon- 
hoven, and inquired if the French had yet 
taken possession of Rotterdam, as it was an 
event daily expected when I left that place. 
Finding they had not, I considered myself per¬ 
fectly safe. The boat being ready, we crossed 
the largest branch of the rapid Rhine, which 
here bears the name of den Lek. 

The day was very rainy, and I arrived at 
Rotterdam completely soaked and bespatter* 


265 


% 


ed with mud, between the hours of ten and 
eleven, having walked a distance of forty-eight 
miles, during the last thirteen hours. The 
first house I went to, was Mrs. Ebbs’s, who was 
much surprised to see me return, when she 
supposed me to be safe in England. As my 
former lodgings were too dear for the present 
state of my finances, I resolved to accept of a 
proposal which had been made of accommo¬ 
dating me at Mrs* Doll’s for eight guilders a 
week, but which it was not worth while shift¬ 
ing for, as my former stay had been so short. 
Having rested myself a little, I went there,— 
it was the next door; the family consisted of 
Mr. Doll, who was a clerk in a merchant’s house, 
but at this time unable to attend, being in a de¬ 
cline,—his wife and sister, who were the young 
lasses in black that stopped to laugh at my un¬ 
couth appearance the first day of my entering 
Rotterdam; being very intimate with them 
afterwards, we used often to laugh it over; they 
said they took me to be some boor, who having 
come to market was gaping at the picture 
over the door. The brother and sister spoke 
English as well as they did Dutch, their mother, 
who had been dead only a few weeks, having 
been a native of Ireland. There are mauy fa¬ 
milies in Rotterdam, in which English is as 
much spoken as any other language. On telling 



266 


my errand, they said, the room was let to Cap¬ 
tain Smith of the Desdemona, but that they 
would gladly send him away, as he was a very 
unpleasant guest; this I refused, saying, it was 
possible I should remain there only a few days. 

Mr. Doll insisted on my staying to dinner, 
and when I left them in the afternoon, invited 
me to call whenever I had a spare hour, as he 
said he was frequently lonely in the afternoon. 
During my stay I took advantage of his invita¬ 
tion, and usually spent three or four evenings 
of every week with him very pleasantly: he 
gave me a good deal of information concerning 
Holland, which I could not otherwise have re¬ 
ceived. On leaving them, 1 went to my former 
lodgings at Mrs. Jordan’s, who appeared fearful 
that her house would be searched for me, and said, 
she would endeavour to get a lodging for me on 
the morrow at another English house; but, in 
the course of the evening, on her asking if I had 
been obliged to part with my watch, I knew the 
source of her fears, w'hich I soon quieted, by 
telling her I had it yet, together with two 
guineas and alouis d’or, not having been at any 
expense since leaving her. 

* . . f . i 

Wednesday , 7 111 March .—I found myself so 
very stiff that I breakfasted in bed, and do not 


267 


know when I should have got up ; but at noon 
they told me a Captain was below, who 
wished to speak with me ; not being able to 
guess who it could be, I hurried down to see. 
He asked me if I had any prospect of getting 
a passage ; I said it was not my intention to 
try for one, as I wished to ship myself on board 
of some neutral vessel; he said, he would ship 
me for his vessel, if [ was not afraid of stand¬ 
ing muster at the town house. I readily ac¬ 
cepted of his offer, and told him my name, &c. 

Having' dined, I walked down to Mr. 
Brown’s, and was very glad to meet with 
Webster, who had arrived only a very short 
time, and was extremely fatigued. 1 found it 
was he who had passed me in the boat, and, he 
said, that having waited some time, in the hope 
I would come to him, he shoved off without 
any oars, having only a long pole in the boat: 
about ten o’clock he went alongside of a schuyt, 
♦ and hearing the people on board snoring, 
secured the hatch and took a pair of oars ; with 
these he got on so well, as to arrive abreast of 
Dort by midnight, when he lost his way amongst 
the various branches of rivers which there join. 
In the morning he landed at a town, but finding 
it to be occupied by French troops, took to his 
boat again, and after pulling some distance, 


268 


landed at the opposite side at noon: on en¬ 
quiring, he found he was five leagues from 
Rotterdam, and wishing to arrive before night, 
he walked as fast as he could until dusk, when, 
after crossing a ferry, he enquired the distance, 
and was astonished to find himself ten leagues 
from Rotterdam; he re-crossed the ferry, and 
after walking a short distance, being extremely 
fatigued, went into a public house and asked 
them to allow him to pass the night in a barn; 
having received permission, he went in, and 
soon fell asleep, but was awaked about nine 
o’clock by the landlord, who brought him a 
large bason of milk porridge, which he refused 
to take, although he was very hungry, having 
fasted twenty-four hours, expecting they would 
demand payment for it, and he was not sure that 
the few pence he had, would be sufficient to pay 
the ferries : at day-light he renewed his journey, 
and arrived without further accident. 

The Swede who had arrived in the morning, 
said, that on leaving the vessel, he was at a loss 
which path to pursue, but having gained the 
high road, by passing through the white gate, 
he hid himself in a bundle of reeds, where he 
slept until midnight, when, rising refreshed and 
sober, he set out for Rotterdam: day was just 
breaking when he arrived at Papendrecht, the 


269 


Tillage in which I had been frightened. As he 
passed along, two gens d'armes laid hold of him, 
and inquired where he was going ? He told 
them, in Dutch, that he was come from a 
schuyt, which he pointed to, and was going for 
milk.—A day or two after his arrival here, 
having obtained employment on board of a 
neutral vessel, bound to Antwerp, I gave him 
a note to forward to Capeland. I told Webster 
who had shipped me, and advised him to try 
for a berth; he said, that he had already seen 
the Captain, and expected to go with him 
also. 

Saturday , \Oth March. —Webster and I 
joined the vessel, expecting to take on board 
a cargo on the Monday following; it was a 
Dutch schuyt of 40 tons, and the persons who 
belonged to her were, the Captain and Super* 
cargo, both Englishmen, and Kees, a Dutch boy, 
who stood cook; Webster and I were to re* 
ceive the same wages as were given by fair 
traders out of England, that is, ten guineas the 
trip, and twelve shillings a w'eek. 

In the course of the ensuing week, Mrs. Lam* 
bert arrived in town, and informed us, that as 
soon as the sentry missed us from the deck, he 
alarmed the serjeant and other soldiers, who, 


J 


270 

seizing their arms, got a lanthorn, aiul went in 
search of us; but, returning without success, 
they became like madmen, particularly the ser- 
jeant and sentry, who tore their hair and beat 
themselves, crying, that they should be im¬ 
prisoned for life. On their arrival at Bois-le- 
Due, they were sent to the jail, and two or three 
days after, examined before several general 
officers, to whom they immediately confessed 
what they were on, while the prisoners were 
remanded back to Gorcum, from whence they 
had deserted, and Mrs. Lambert was provided 
with a passport and conveyance to Rotterdam. 

In the course of the month of April, I received 
a letter from England, in answer to one which 
I had forwarded on my first arrival in Rotter¬ 
dam, and frecjuently found means of sending' a 
few lines : I also wrote twice to the American 
consul general at Amsterdam, requesting him to 
have my protection returned to me; but, find¬ 
ing it to be delayed from, time to time, I 
waited on the consul at this place, with his 
answer to my letters; and, on telling him how 
uncertain my stay was, he furnished me with 
a new protection, with which I considered my¬ 
self perfectly secure. Towards the latter end of 
April, we were agreeably surprized by the 
arrival of Phillips from Gorcum, from which 


271 


place he had conducted a party of half a dozen 
prisoners, three or four of whom, with him, found 
an asylum on board of cur schuyt, until a pas¬ 
sage was procured for them. 

» 

We heard afterwards that the vessel they 
embarked on board of was obliged, by the wea¬ 
ther, to bear up again for Holland, after having* 
made the English coast; but meeting with a 
British man-of-war brig' on the Dutch coast, 
Phillips and his companions were impressed, 
and the commander paid the fishermen for their 
passage. One of Phillips’s companions had been 
six years a prisoner in France, escaping from 
whence, he was arrested in Holland, and 
confined until this time at Gorcum ; so that after 
seven years captivity, he was only tantalized 
with the sight of the land of liberty, and then 
condemned to a much severer imprisonment 
than that which he had left. 

We were prevented from sailing fortnight 
after fortnight, until the beginning of May, by 
which time Webster became so tired of waiting, 
that he engaged his passage on board of a Dutch 
vessel without telling’ our Captain he had done 
so: but, finding our schuyt to be actually on the 
move at last, he intended remaining with us: 
the Captain, however, having been informed of 


272 


his intention by the master of the Dutch vessel, 
would not allow him to remain : he also ques¬ 
tioned me about my intentions. Wishing rather 
to delay than expedite my arrival in England, 
as I had no inclination just then, to engage in a 
voyage to the East Indies with my cousin, of 
whose arrival I had heard,—I had not the 
temptation of Webster, whose wife depended 
entirely on his exertions for support; but 
wished, rather, that our schuyt would make a 
short trip to France or Norway, which was 
sometimes in agitation. 

In a few days after this, we went down to 
Delftshaven, where, after remaining a few 
days, we took in two hundred tubs of gin, and 
filled the vessel up with rushes, which were 
piled up about six feet above the deck : the day 
we finished loading, I went up to town about 
nine o’clock, and asked the Captain for some 
money, which he had promised to let me have 
a few days before, in order to discharge my bill 
at Mrs. Jordan’s, where I had always slept, 
not having bedding on board ; he told me he 
was to have some money the next morning, and 
would then pay it; this I knew he would cer¬ 
tainly do; for I never met with any person who 
was so exact in performing the slightest pro¬ 
mise he made, even in joke, although from his 


273 


denying the existence of a God, a legal oath 
was a farce to him. Webster and I left him at 
Mrs. Brown’s, and having taken a turn or two, 
took leave of each other: I was very sorry he 
was not going with us, instead of having to 
pay twenty pounds for his passage. I went to 
Mrs. J ordan’s, and having given an order on 
the Captain for the amount of her bill, which 
was about twenty-four guilders, told her that 
in case the Captain did not bring me her re¬ 
ceipt before we sailed, I would run up and pay 
her, as I had yet two guineas remaining. It 
was my intention to return to the vessel 
immediately, but I was persuaded to remain, in 
order to receive instructions from Mary Doll, 
who had been staying with Mrs. Jordan the last 
month, of what I was to say to her lover, who 
had sailed with the Desdemona about a month 
since. The Friendship had sailed in the middle 
of March, and we soon after heard of her being 
wrecked on the Goodwin: the crew were saved 
with the exception of the poor black cook. 
John, the boatswain, also sailed about the end of 
the same month, as mate of a small vessel, 
which was wrecked, and every soul perished. 

At day-break I returned to the vessel, and 
about ten o’clock the Captain came down ; the 
vessel w r as at the pier head, quite ready to 

T 


274 


make sail, blit the papers were not yet ready, 
which the captain said would detain us two 
hours longer: the interpreter not being arrived, 
I went towards Rotterdam to hurry him, and 
having got half way there, when I met wuth 
him, I determined to go on : soon after leaving 
him, I met with a Delftshaven lass, with whom 
I became acquainted, during the few days we 
lay here, before loading ; short as our acquaint¬ 
ance was, it was settled that we w r ere to be 
married, but we could not agree as to the time > 
I was for its taking place immediately, but they 
put it off until my return from Middleburgh, to 
which place it was supposed we were bound. 
She was walking with her mother and aunt, at 
the side of the dyke, I was running along on 
the top of it ; they stopped and called to me, 
supposing I did not observe them: fearful of 
trusting myself, I shut my eyes and ears, and 
passed the lovely syren without taking the 
slightest notice of her. 

I called at Mrs. Jordan’s door, and found 
the Captain had settled with her; I then bought a 
couple of books. On my return to the ves¬ 
sel, I found that the papers having been given 
soon after the interpreter’s arrival, I had nearly 
lost my passage, it being only at the intreaties 
of the supercargo and interpreter that the Cap- 


275 


tain consented to wait for me. The sails being 
already set, I cast the ropes off and jumped on 
board, almost sorry to leave Holland, where 1 
had experienced many pleasures and pains, yet 
glad to be on the road to procure my liberty, 
which I did not consider as completely gained. 

Sauntering about Rotterdam one day, I 
stopped to look at the different advertisements 
which were pasted up against the jail ; amongst 
others, I saw one offering a reward for the ap¬ 
prehension of two English deserters Irotn Va¬ 
lenciennes : the name of one was Luke Gordon, 
and his age, height, hair, complexion, &c. 
answered so exactly to mine, that I did not 
wonder in the least that the interpreter at 
Helvoetsluys supposed me to be the person 
described; but it certainly was a strange coin¬ 
cidence of circumstances, that we were name¬ 
sakes, and in such similar situations at the same 
period, as he deserted a week after me, and I 
heard afterwards, escaped by the way of Hol¬ 
land. 

# • « 

» 

We set the pilot on shore at Zerkzee, about 
noon, on Sunday the 13th of May, and continued 
our course towards Middleburgh, for which 
place we were cleared out; but instead of going 
in, stood to sea with a fine still breeze from the 

t 2 


276 


eastward, in sight of twelve men-of-war brigs 
which were lying in T’Veer Gat, but they 
dared not follow us, as the wind was right 
off their own coast. Our vessel, which had 
always made a great deal of water, now in¬ 
creased her leaks, as we expected, but not so as 
to give us the smallest uneasiness. All night 
we had a very fine run, with a steady breeze, 
which continued during’ the ensuing day. 

J *' # 

After eating my dinner, I went to have a 
spell at the pump, before I relieved the Captain 
from the helm, quite pleased that the vessel was 
so tight; but having tired myself, the super¬ 
cargo and Kees each took a spell without being 
able to make her suck, which surprized me 
much, as it was but a short time since, they said, 
she was quite dry: we went below, and having 
lifted a plank, found there were two feet water 
in the hold ; this made me very angry with the 
Dutchman, who had been telling us all day, after 
pumping a little, that she was quite free. Having 
pumped until we were all completely tired, 
without having gained an inch on her, we were 
obliged to rest ourselves, and take the consola¬ 
tion of abusing Kees, who, without making any 
answer, was overhauling the poles used for shoving 
the vessel along in shoal water: having found 
one which suited his purpose, he soon fixed 


277 


it to the pump in such a manner that it turned 
the labour of pumping, which before was very 
fatiguing, into mere play. This made peace 
with us effectually, and, on asking what put 
the contrivance into his head, he said, it was the 
way they used always to do when his father was 
skipper of the schuyt, as she was usually very 
leaky. In an hour or two she was quite freed, 
but we were obliged to keep jogging her out 
continually. In the evening we made Orford- 
ness light, and stood away to the Northward, 
in company with a number of light colliers, all 
of whom had the heels of us. At eleven o’clock 
we saw the breakers on either side of us, arid 
immediately afterwards struck in one fathom. 
The captain, who was reckoned a good pilot 
on this coast, w ould scarcely believe we were 
aground, so much had he mistaken our situation, 
although we were steering for St. Nicholas Gat 
light. We endeavoured to force her over the 
banks, as there w r as a fine fresh gale ; but, not 
succeeding, had to lower the sails when the tide 
fell, and wait for day-light, in hopes of as¬ 
sistance from the shore. 

; jY <v v: , • . ,T f liu 

Tuesday, 15th May. — At day-light, a Yar¬ 
mouth boat came to us, and having ran out one 
of our anchors, we hove off as the tide flowed. 
At six o’clock we were again under sail, but 


/ 


278 

nearly half full of water, although we had kept 
both pumps going. By bailing and pumping, 
we soon gained on the leaks, on which the 
people who had assisted us, demanded two 
hundred guineas to be paid them in hand, or 
else, insisted on carrying us into Yarmouth: 
as there was not ten guineas in the vessel, and, 
if carried into Yarmouth, the vessel and cargo 
were sure to be made a prize of, and all of us 
imprisoned as smugglers, the Captain was 
obliged lo tell them how we were situated, and, 
at the same time, said, if they would agree to 
let him prosecute the voyage, he would give 
them one half of the vessel and cargo; and, 
that as many as pleased, might remain on board 
to see lair play : this would have been very 
advantageous to them; but it caused a great 
deal of argument; three or four times they 
agreed to accept of it, and, as often, refused it, 
altering the, vessel’s course with their opinions: 
at length, it appeared to be settled, that we 
were to continue our voyage; but, having stood 
on our course some time, we had to alter it 
again, one man having succeeded in making the 
others carry her to Yarmouth, by saying, he 
would have no share in the transaction, as they 
were all running the risk of being transported 
for smugglers They now put about and stood 
for Yarmouth; and we, having launched the 


I 


279 


boat, went into her with whatever things 

© 

were at hand ; and, after a long pull, landed 
about eight o’clock at a small village on the 
coast, but were too late to have any hopes of 
getting to Yarmouth in time to give informa¬ 
tion at the custom-house, that the vessel we 
bad quitted was a smuggler, which the Captain 
intended to have done, and, by that means, 
receive the informer’s share. Having taken 
our things out of the boat, and hauled her on 
the beach, a man came towards us from a look¬ 
out house ; the sight of him made me shudder, 
as the thoughts of a signal station, and the sea¬ 
side had, of late, been invariably connected 
with gens d’armes and such other unpleasant 
companions : when he inquired if we had been 
wrecked, I quite started with surprize at hear¬ 
ing him speak English, We accepted of his 
invitation to bring* our things into his house and 
rest ourselves : having breakfasted, the Captain 
sold his beds and other things, which he had 
brought away, to the man of the house. I 
quitted an old velveteen jacket, which the Cap¬ 
tain had given me, my fear nothing trowsers, 
check shirt, and black handkerchief, for my 
Cambrai travelling suit, which had been laid 
up in ordinary since I joined the schuyt. 

About noon, being a little rested, and having 


280 


arranged every thing, my companions set out 
for Yarmouth, which was about three miles 
distant; not caring to trust myself there, on 
account of the impress, I parted from them on 
my way to London, through Newmarket. On 
taking leave of my Captain, the poor old gen¬ 
tleman burst into tears; he was the most honest 
man I ever met with, although his life had 
been spent with smugglers: after having long 
served as a boy, and before the mast, he got a 
command, and was so fortunate, that he was 
at one time owner of several vessels, and 
drove his carriage; but his fortunes have 
changed, for, I believe, when I left him, he did 
not possess £ 20, and is now quite infirm. The 
schuyt was, I think he said, the forty-fifth 
vessel he had lost, but the first which he 
could not give a good account of. 

About four o’clock I went into a public house 
and got some tea, intending to travel until ten 
o’clock; but on setting out again, I found my¬ 
self so very sleepy, that I could not keep my 
eyes open : having fallen asleep several times as 
I walked along, and finding myself, on waking, 
sometimes standing still in the road, and, at 
other times in danger of staggering into the 
ditches, I went into a public house, and hav¬ 
ing got some supper went to bed, which I paid 


281 


them for at the time, intending to set out again 
at day-break. 

Wednesday , 1 6th May .—I was awakened by a 
person coming into the room, and, on asking 
what they wanted, was told, they came to see if 
I was unwell, as it was past noon, and not hear¬ 
ing me stir, they had begun to think I might 
be dead. Having breakfasted 1 set out, and 
passed through Norwich, at which place I 
left my little bundle of rags to be forwarded by 
the waggon. As no coach was going* until the 
next night, I would not wait for it, but continued 
my journey on foot until ten o’clock, stopping 
to have dinner and tea at different villages I 
passed through. 

V 

Thursday, 17 th May .—I continued my march 
as usual until the afternoon : while I was in a 
public house, drinking my tea, a young man 
came in and inquired if he could have a bed, 
but, as there was none to spare, he continued his 
road. I was sure he was a sailor, and wished to 
have asked him to sit down by me, as he ap¬ 
peared very much fatigued, yet was afraid that 
he might belong to some press-gang, so suspi¬ 
cious was I of every person. Having set out 
again, I soon got sight of him, and, as he was 
frequently obliged to rest, on overtaking him I 


282 


ventured to enter into conversation with him, 
and found that he was on his way from Yar¬ 
mouth to London, having* just been cleared from 
a man-of-war, on board of which he had been 
impressed. We walked together until we came 
to Newmarket, where we parted, as he was too 
much fatigued to proceed any further that night, 
and intended to rest a day or two with a relation 
who lived at Cambridge; but I continued my 
journey until ten o’clock, when I put up at a 
good inn. 

i , {« , , i 

Friday , 18th May .—I was so tired that I did 
not rise until ten o’clock, and did not arrive in 
Cambridge till two, when 1 went to a coach office 
and took an outside place, which I mustered 
money enough to pay for by changing some 
Dutch and French coins. I passed the after¬ 
noon in walking about the grounds of the dif¬ 
ferent colleges. 

# * * 

Saturday , 19 th Way .—About six o’clock we 
started, and after a very cold night’s journey, 
arrived about five in the morning at Kingsland 
turnpike, where I got down, and having warm¬ 
ed and washed myself at a public house, walked 
across the fields to Islington, where I had the 
happiness to find my friends all well. 


283 


They had received the greater part of the 
letters 1 had written when in Holland, but 
scarcely knew what to make of them, as I never 
dared to sign my name, or to enter into any par¬ 
ticulars concerning my situation, for fear of 
being apprehended with them about me. 

I found that Capt. Connolly and Curren had 
arrived safe, after having been secreted a fort¬ 
night or three weeks at Boulogne.—Capt. Ferin 
and Marrin who deserted on the 16th December, 
from Cam bra i, had travelled poet through 
France, and arrived safe in Rotterdam, where 
they had remained several days with my land¬ 
lady, Mrs. Jordan. 

August , 1810.—-Being on shore at Ports¬ 
mouth, I met with John Sheriff, whom I had left 
at Cambrai a prisoner: he had been a waterman, 
but, one afternoon, three foreigners, whom he 
supposed to he Spaniards, desired him to put 
them on hoard of a transport a' Spithead : after 
pulling from one vessel to another, until they got 
outside of all, they shoved him down in the bot¬ 
tom of the boat, as d pulled away towards 
France: after being out three da^s in a thick 
fog, without either victuals or drink, they 
landed near Cherbourgh, where he was im¬ 
prisoned, and after some time, sent to Cambrai, 


284 




where he had been about a year when I arrived 
there. I frequently used to endeavour to per¬ 
suade him to get his case represented to Buona¬ 
parte, but he thought it would be useless. He 
now informed me, that about two months after 
I deserted, the Emperor visited Cambrai on 
his way to Breda, and inquired into the situa¬ 
tion of the prisoners. Sheriff got a letter to be 
sent to the Emperor, and received his pass¬ 
ports the next day. He said, that Capeland 
had been sent to Bitche for making a complaint 
in the name of the other prisoners, about the 
quality of the provisions. Welch, who was the 
last prisoner I had spoken to, was dead. 
Heyman had deserted, but had not been heard of. 
Captains Hepburn and Badcock, who had lived 
in our room, had both been dangerously ill 
soon after my departure. 






r 


ml 


i 




285 


‘ c I will give thanks unto the Lord, for he is 
good, for his mercy endureth for ever. He 
hath redeemed me from the hand of the enemy, 
and gathered me from the lands of the East, 
and of the West, and from the North, and 
from the South. 

€C I wandered in the wilderness in a solitary 
way: I found no city to dwell in : hungry and 
thirsty, my soul fainted in me. Then I cried 
unto the Lord in my troulblo, nnd ho delivered 
me out of my distresses ; and he led me forth 
by the right way, that I might go to a city 
of habitation. 

“ Oh that men would praise the Lord for his 
goodness, and for his wonderful works to the 
children of men!” 

At Sea, Feb . 1811. 

THE END. 


H. Bryer, Printer, Bridge-Street, Blackfriars, London, 




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Works recently published by 


JOSIAH CONDEE, 

* 

No. 18, St. Paul's Church-Yard . 

( 


■r— 

J i / J «' • . . I . 1 • » • V » • ■ * l 

1. HEALTH OF LASCARS. 

Observations and Instructions for the Use of Chief Officers 
of Country Ships and others, concerned in the preservation 
of the Health of Lascars. By a Country Caftain. 8vo. 
2s. 6d. sewed. 

S2. rnivn rc LUNATIC ASYLUMS. 

Observations on the Laws relating to Private Lunatic 
Asylums, and particularly on a Bill for their alteration, which 
passed the House of Commons in the year 1814. 8vo. 3s. 6d. 

3. BISHOP GREGOIRE ON SLAVERY. 

On the Slave Trade, and on the Slavery of the Blacks 
and of the Whites. By a Friend of Men of all Colours. 
Translated from the French of M. Gregoire, formerly Bishop 
ofBlois. To which are annexed, Prefatory Observations 
and Notes : By the Translator. Svo. 3s. 6d. 

“ If you have a right to enslave others, there may be others who have 
a right to enslave you.’’ 

4. DR. DEWAR'S OBSERVATIONS ON IRELAND. 

Observations on the Character, Customs, and Supersti¬ 
tions of the Irish, and on some of the Causes which have 
retarded the Moral and Political Improvement of Ireland. 
By the Rev. Daniel Dewar, LL. D. 8vo. 10s. 6d. 

5. ROMAN CATHOLIC RELIGION^ 

Lectures on the Principles and Institutions of the Roman 
Catholic Religion. By the Rev. Joseph Fletcher 
crown 8vo. 8s. 



9 



Catalogue of Works recently published. 




6. FHILIP HENRY'S SERMONS. 


Eighteen Sermons selected from the MSS. of the Rev. 
Phiiip Henry, A.M. including the last Sermon which he 
preached. To which are added, the Funeral Sermon for 
Mr. Henry, by the Rev. F. Talents, A.M.; and the sub¬ 
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his Father's tfying words. With a fac simile of a Letter 
from Philip Henry. 8vo. 9s. 


7. dr. Gregory's astronomical lessons. 

Lessons Astronomical and Philosophical, comprising an 
Explanation of the most usual appearances in Nature, in 
a familiar manner, from established principles *. interspersed 
with moral Reflections. By Olinthus Gregory, LL. D. 
of the Royal Military Academy. Fifth Edition, considera¬ 
bly enlarged. 5s. boards. 

8 . M 1 Stt X ^ X 1.V/ ^ — Ka v • * Tf _ . ^ 


Display, a Tale. By Jane Taylor, one of the Authors 
of “ Hymns for Infant Minds," “ Original Poems," &c. 
with an elegant Frontispiece. 6s. boards. 


9. original poetry. 

The Associate Minstrels : the Second Edition, including 
some additional Poems. Foolscap, 8vo. 6s. boards. 

10. may’s family prayer book. 

The Family Prayer Book abridged : containing Forms of 
Prayer for every Day in the Week. Originally com¬ 
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Rev. Samuel Palmer. A New Edition in pocket size, 
with large Type. 2s. bound. 


II. BUCK ON RELIGIOUS EXPERIENCE. 

A Treatise on Religious Experience: in which its Nature, 
Evidences, and Advantages are considered. By the late 
Rev. Charles Buck, Fourth Edition, l2mo. 5s. boards. 




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